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Unread 05-31-2022, 11:52 AM   #1
Tile88
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Anyone see a problem with doing this?

Going into a bathroom.
Wife and I really like this particular tile but it's only available in a 12x24 or approximately thereof...

We'd like to place them in a herringbone pattern cutting them down to 3x12's
I'm fully aware of the amount of cutting in my fiture....

that said...

Does anyone see an issue going this route with this tile. These are made in USA pieces but they're Ceramic...not Percelain.

We'd also like to use these in a horizontal pattern on the shower wall.
I've read sone mixed reviews about ceramic and water so please chime in before I go great guns...

Lastly...on the pieces I'm cutting if I look really close I can see some distortion along the edges of where I cut. Standing over them you don't see them but kneeling down over them you can definitely it.

Is this just the nature of cutting them with a wet saw or would a better blade help? I've tried cutting with the tile upside down and finshed side up. Doesn't seem to make much difference although I think cutting them upside down produced less distorted edges.
I know with other material using a piece of tape can help keep a clean cut....but tile?? Not so sure.

I've posted some pictures...
The red arrows are pointing to cut lines...the green arrow is factory end

Thank you
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Last edited by Tile88; 05-31-2022 at 11:53 AM. Reason: Forgot to include something
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Unread 05-31-2022, 04:24 PM   #2
Lazarus
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You can always use a "rubbing brick" or some diamond pads to ease the cuts to more of a factory edge. The grout will hide a lot (but not all) of that.... Keep us posted.
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Unread 05-31-2022, 05:11 PM   #3
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Yeah, that edge will be hard to hide completely. Another problem you may have is setting a jig on your saw accurate enough to make the pieces close to identical. As you cut them, you'll want to measure about every tenth one to make sure nothing has moved. Measure the ends, you want them the same size. Sometimes the cut size will change a little as your blade wears and changing to a new blade may throw off the size a little. Also, the type and quality of your saw will have an impact of the cut accuracy.

I'd try to find tiles already the right size but that's up to you.
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Unread 05-31-2022, 08:30 PM   #4
Tile88
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@ Lazarus ...

Any rubbing brick or one better than the other for my application
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Unread 06-01-2022, 09:09 AM   #5
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It can be hard to cut tiles up and keep the sizing consistent. Additionally, the tiles cut out of the center will have a higher crown in the middle than ones cut from the edge.

However, you've got a mock-up there and if your happy with it then there's no reason not to do it.

These diamond polishing pads will smooth that edge out nicely. These do better than bricks or whatever else. 120 is probably what you want.

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Unread 06-01-2022, 11:38 AM   #6
Tile88
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Thx for the replies so far...

Next question....

My cuts were made with a kobalt blade.

Is any particular brand better than others and might help combat my edge issue.
My edges aren't too sharp it's the tiny distortion I'd like to minimize.

If nothing out there to help with that I'm ok. Grout will help with most of that.

Thx
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Unread 06-01-2022, 05:42 PM   #7
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I'm not a big fan of the Kobalt blade. Adequate, but not great. I personally prefer the P4......
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Unread 06-02-2022, 09:10 AM   #8
Tile88
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P4 as in ?

When I put in P4 blade in a search many blades come up.
Pearl abrasive? If so.. they list two "p4's"
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Unread 06-02-2022, 09:48 AM   #9
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Yes, Pearl P4
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Unread 06-02-2022, 03:52 PM   #10
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I'd be worried about those sharp edges meeting the factory rounded edges and how the grout will extend over the rounded edges, but not over the sharp edges... I'd install those cut tiles into a spare section of drywall with mortar, then grout with whatever grout color you're planning and see if you like the result.

A few square feet of wasted tile can buy some piece of mind before going full bore on the walls..
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Unread 06-02-2022, 06:11 PM   #11
smifwal
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Phil brings up a great point. The rounded edge meeting the square edge will change the size of your grout line. If you were putting a 1/8 in spacer in between 2 factory edges you will get a finished grout joint of 3/16 because of the 2 bevels. I did this herringbone pattern with a border and use a 3/16 spacer for the field and a 1/8 for where the boarder met the field. That gave me a uniform appearance through out.Also the pattern you are doing thing can go terribly awry if you get off and you will be fighting the whole install. So I would make sure that your tiles are as close to the same size as possible. Out of the box from the manufacturer is hard enough to keep things straight. Not trying to discourage you, but just want to let you know what problems might present themselves with what you are doing
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Unread 06-04-2022, 12:37 PM   #12
Tile88
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What can I put here for a transition..

Going into this other room will be different tile. What can I use to cover a gap/tile change going into the next room.

As with my other post can I'm doing a herringbone patrern and different color altogether than what's in the picture.

Thank you
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Unread 06-04-2022, 12:49 PM   #13
PC7060
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Hi, I’d either just run the new tile from that point or or use Schluter Schiene at the start of the new floor.

Either way, I’d leave 1/4” joint between the sections, you can either grout the gap or use a complimentary colored silicon caulk.

Make sure to fully undercut the door jambs so the edge cuts can slide out of site under the frame.
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Unread 06-04-2022, 01:26 PM   #14
Lazarus
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Rough up the tile and put a 2" or 4" marble threshold there...
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Unread 06-04-2022, 02:13 PM   #15
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Hey Laz,
Looks like the other tile is already run to center of door and looks to be fully setup. If the OP runs the new tile up close to the other tile he’ll have a nice hidden joint when door is close.

I like to use the marble as well but I cut it down the door thickness and center under door so it’s not visible or with door closed.
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