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Unread 10-13-2019, 02:47 PM   #46
Davy
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I would start with a hammer and small cold chisel. No doubt the thinset will only get harder and a stronger bond.

So, when was this tile installed? I'd probably get to removing the tiles but take it slow and easy and cross your fingers.
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Unread 10-14-2019, 02:20 PM   #47
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Paper faced glass mosaic installation - some questions

Went ahead and removed all of it. A lot of it came out pretty easy. Foam is not that bad except on the corners.



I assume the flat spots can just be floated, but what about building up the corners again? Is that even possible?



I have a lot more cleanup to do, but currently....

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Unread 10-14-2019, 10:52 PM   #48
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Easy button for thinset removal:
Oscillating tool with a carbide finger rasp (looks something like a pointy oval) while running a vacuum. The thinset will melt away from the vibrating grinding action and the vacuum will keep it clean. Keep a relatively gentle touch and you’ll have a lot of precision control on the removal.

It’s still going to take patience. There is a larger triangular carbide rasp that could potentially speed things up a bit, but you don’t have quite as much precision control as with the finger rasp.

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Unread 10-15-2019, 02:22 PM   #49
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I'm going to clean up with that rasp the next two evenings...but...what about the exposed foam in the niche? Isn't that the water barrier? Is RedGard even compatible with that foam? Will the thinset adhere in those spots?
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Unread 10-16-2019, 01:55 PM   #50
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Wow, I am sorry to see the mess you are dealing with!

It looks like you have Laticrete's Hydroboard on your walls? In which case the board should be waterproof all the way through. In a case where we have had a dent or chunk missing like you have, you could paint some fresh hydroban over it for peace of mind and better adhesion of your tile. You may want to do in the back of your niche what was suggested by the pros here for your insert, and do a nice, flat skin coat of mortar--in this case, not to raise the height to match the field tile, but to give you a nice, flat, easier to work with substrate and to eliminate concerns of whether the tile will adhere properly. If you need more info about Hydroboard, you can check out Laticrete's website, they have tech support and chat available.

If it is Durock with Hydroban over it, or something else entirely, disregard my advice! That would be handled differently.

Best of luck moving forward...it stinks your GC wasn't comfortable doing the insert. I remember the first time I saw paper backed tile and thought, how's it gonna stick with paper on the back?! Just read the directions thoroughly and follow the advice given here--if you are patient and pay attention to detail, you'll nail it!
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Unread 10-16-2019, 02:15 PM   #51
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Hi!

yes, it is a Laticrete Pre-formed niche. It has the hydroban coating and what looks like white foam underneath.

I think i'll call laticrete and see what they have to say, but I think you're on to something. Hydro-ban, skim coat, then tile.

FYI, the finger rasp works well and will be doing more of that tonight.

Thank you!
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Unread 10-16-2019, 03:13 PM   #52
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Skip the rasp on the deco band, take your trowel and feather/float it to thickness for your tile since it needs build out anyhow. Maybe you can get away with doing the same for the back of the niche. Less rasping, less chances of puncturing the waterproofing.
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Unread 10-16-2019, 03:43 PM   #53
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I'd hafta side with Christopher on that.
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Unread 10-17-2019, 10:17 AM   #54
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Hey guys.....

took out the highest spots with the rasp since, in some spots, there was a ton of thinset. Things are cleaned up now.

Laticrete said to just thinset, then hydroban, then set and go and the divots are no biggie. Thing is hydroban is like $100/gal and we have redgard. I assume I should follow the laticrete instructions...

Here's a good one: my wife picked a new deco tile. Something with a mesh back. You know, like the one the GC wanted to install from the beginning. Her words, "I like it even better." I resisted throat punching her.

I kid...she's been very supportive through this whole thing and the switch will help more than anything...
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Unread 10-26-2019, 01:26 PM   #55
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I'm going to try and float the inside of the niche this weekend and get things flat. The thing is, what do I do with the exposed corners? just dab thinset in there, smooth over, then redgard...then build up when doing quarter round?
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Unread 10-26-2019, 01:34 PM   #56
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Which exposed corners, Matt? Maybe post a pic highlighting the corners you're referring to.
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Unread 10-26-2019, 01:36 PM   #57
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Hi Dan

The corners can be seen in my post above, but not emphasized. I'll take a pic of the cleaned-up niche and highlight those areas.

Thank you!
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Unread 10-26-2019, 06:26 PM   #58
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Damaged next to ok:



Worst side:

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Unread 10-26-2019, 06:53 PM   #59
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Flatten out the surfaces with thinset and let them set up. Then use a rub stone or rub brick to smooth out the thinset. Thinset isn't easy to get real flat but the stone will grind off any high points. When you get it the way you want it then wipe it with a wet sponge and paint the whole box with Redgard. The extra work to flatten the surfaces will help when tiling, especially with those mosaics.
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Unread 11-03-2019, 05:16 PM   #60
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Did a float and flatten/rub with stone. Should I do a second float to get out the smaller imperfections or just go? I put it on pretty thin, almost like spackle filling a hole in a wall, if that makes sense.



Front edge of this corner got it pretty bad

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