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Unread 03-28-2019, 04:36 PM   #31
Mikefly
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Photo attached. Floor is slightly warm in bare feet. Thermostat reads 88, set to 100 for the past 24 hours.
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Unread 03-28-2019, 05:09 PM   #32
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ask the contractor what material specifically did he use? brand? part number? also ask how much he used.
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Unread 03-28-2019, 05:12 PM   #33
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Well, if he poured concrete over your ditra heat I'd say he owes you a new floor...but again is this over a slab or subfloor? Do you have any progress pics?
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Unread 03-28-2019, 05:16 PM   #34
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On a SOG, Ryan. We have history on this project and I've combined it here.
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Unread 03-28-2019, 05:41 PM   #35
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I went back through and I see no mention of which ditra heat was used. When installing heat over a slab the use of a thermal break is a big deal. Without some sort of thermal break you are losing alot of your heat to the slab below. Using ditra heat Duo would have been the right way to go over SOG. Not sure what you have though.
If, you have regular ditra heat mat and 1" of "concrete" over that you will have a very difficult time coming anywhere close to heating the floor to the system's full potential.
I would start compiling information from the installer finding out exactly how the install was done. You also need to find out exactly what products were used.
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Unread 03-28-2019, 06:07 PM   #36
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Best guess from what I saw along the way - Slab on dirt. Ditra (not duo) on slab. Concrete on ditra. Mortar on concrete. Tile on mortar.

Photos may or may not be helpful. Show first concrete pour and the ditra with wire.

Given that none of this is going to change - will it cost a fortune to run the system at 100F just to warm the door slightly? Is there anything I can do beyond ripping the floor out which is not an option?

I’m not even sure I can withhold any money from final payment as that will screw me if I need any repairs during the warrantee period.
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Unread 03-28-2019, 06:12 PM   #37
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I feel you wont be getting much out of your system... I suggest calling schluter and getting their thoughts on having it cranked up all the time. I have no idea how things like this go in Canada, but I wouldnt be paying him anything going forward.
He has failed installing your floor and basically wasted your money by installing a floor warming system that isnt working properly due to his stupidity....
As far as fixing it goes there is no option other than tearing out and installing it properly.
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Unread 03-28-2019, 06:15 PM   #38
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Thanks Ryan. That’s certainly my fear.
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Unread 03-29-2019, 09:53 AM   #39
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so did you ask what "concrete" material and how much specifically was used? get the brand and part number.

just call the guy and ask.
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Unread 04-05-2019, 06:31 AM   #40
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For reference, the guy quit on the last day because I called schluter and offended him by doubting his work. According to the readout with the appropriate rate, the floor looks like it will Cost $500/year to heat to above a chill. Maybe not much More to a higher temp. Will experiment.

Now noticing that the bench and niche are very close to level. Glass is due to be installed next week. How big a problem is this and is there anything I can do about it?

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Unread 04-05-2019, 06:37 AM   #41
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If the bench and niche are already tiled, Mike, there's nothing you can do about them sort of tearing them out and rebuilding them.

Since you've got glass going in I suspect you'll also have a squeegee on hand. Hit the bench and niche with it after doing the glass.

I literally just fired up my Ditra heat floor - about 70 square feet. For reference, the floor was at 71* and it took about 1.75 hours to warm it to 87*.
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Unread 04-05-2019, 02:02 PM   #42
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Thanks dan. I will have a squeegee. Not practical to squeegee the niche though.

For reference, the heated floor is 25 sqf. Although it’s still cold out, the floor is below the frost line. I will see about bringing a duct into the room. At this price it doesn’t make much sense to use the floor.
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Unread 05-04-2019, 01:53 PM   #43
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FWIW, we’ve noticed more sloppy work. Simple like a chalk line under the grout and more serious like forgetting to install the temperature sensor on the steam generator - which can lead to failure.
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Unread 05-05-2019, 02:00 AM   #44
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Hi Mike,. Isn't it stressful to have knowledge? sometimes I wish I was just dumb and happy like many homeowners.
what are you going to do about no temperature sensor for the steam generator? My steam mist sm11 has a control panel temp sensor that I install in the shower. how else would a steam shower be able to control the temperature in your shower that you set?
I am installing ditra heat and I think it's about 25 square feet cable that I bought I remember it's about 430 Watts. I will use the ditra duo with the extra insulation over concrete on grade. I also have a heat vent duct coming in from the fireplace which works quite well (90f) when the fireplace is on and I also have an additional thousand watt electric wall heater. I just think your little floor heat strip cannot heat that much concrete, SLC, and tile. It sounds like you guy is old school with a modern streak. Maybe he is installed some water floor heat systems before where they can handle the thermal Mass. And they are on continuously during the cold season as part of the house heat. These little heater strips are just meant to warm the tile not the room, I base this off of just pure wattage. I poured the SLC first and I'm looking forward to enjoying a super nice flat floor to tile onto. Pouring SLC was a total pain in the butt learning experience and expensive. I'm glad I got my Spike shoes and spiked roller leveler.
What light did yo go with? I just installed a 6" can today. I have a LED that goes into a can. It has a good flat surface I plan to silicone to the tile . Your thread reminded me to check it's temperature range. It is wet location rated. But we will see. When I first started planning this a year ago I only found super expensive lights that said for steam shower. I wonder what will happen to my LED light if I operate it above its temperature range? It seems that if my steam is set at 45 c the light power supply up in the can Will be more like 40 c? I wonder if it Will fail completely or just while it's over temperature. Will using a dimmer help the situation? I can change it out fairly easily. New led lights are popping up all the time now.
I don't want to add any worries for you but it sounds like your shower walls are built on two different slabs? This would concern me. But I'm sure it done often.
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Unread 05-08-2019, 06:40 PM   #45
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Hi teddy,

The shower walls are built on studs resting on the old (higher) slab. The floor is lower. The bottom 4 inches are on concrete over dirt.

I fished the temperature sensor into the ceiling. It works better now!

I ended up using 4” pots near the edge of the glass, on the dry side of the room. They provide more than enough light. In the end I’m sure a pot rated to 40c would have been fine, but I’m just as happy without it. When I’m steaming I actually turn off all the lights and use only the glow from the steam control panel. Very chill.

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