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Unread 02-21-2019, 08:42 PM   #1
Shirzen
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Shower Pan / Drain Troubles

I tore out a bathtub and the rest of my bathroom in the process. I have plans to build a 4x6 shower stall. I removed the 2" to 1.5" reducer and the tub piping. I got ahead of myself and installed the new piping at the center of the 4' wall. When I was finished I realized just how tall this setup is, and I'm stuck.

Either I have a 4.5" tall mortar shower pan at its lowest point, or I tear this all out and try breaking the concrete around the pipe to lower the overall setup...

What am I supposed to do? I don't want an offset drain, but I also don't want a shower that is 6" above my bathroom floor when finished.
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Unread 02-21-2019, 09:26 PM   #2
jadnashua
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I think your only real choice is to crack some concrete. IN the process, you can probably eliminate those elbows. It's always better to have the riser come straight up, and actually not be all that tall. Anything above the trap can accumulate crud, and smell. If you ever needed to snake the drain, those extra angles will make it much harder, too.
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Unread 02-21-2019, 09:35 PM   #3
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Any recommendation on cracking the concrete? I only want to make a small trough to the center so the drain can be centered. I would still have the two bends in the piping.

I'm not keen on it either but I also want the drain centered very badly. Is there a better way?
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Unread 02-21-2019, 09:58 PM   #4
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Small demo hammer with a spade bit
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Unread 08-07-2019, 07:40 PM   #5
Shirzen
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Need some help with the shower pan

I posted months ago when I started this project but life happened and the shower has been on pause for over half a year.

Starting up again, I'm noticing new problems that I didn't before.

I have removed a tub and am installing a shower. The slab is post tension and I'm not comfortable cutting the slab to make the drain center. The drain will not be center. I have an elbow setup that brings the drain center on one axis, but not center to the other. (see pictures)

I've had to accept that the drain will be offset and I'm going to make the perimeter even all the way around by slightly increasing the slope on the short edges.

Here's my questions:

1) what is the order here? Preslope, liner, then what? More mud? I've read the mud needs to be 1 1/2 thick on top of the Preslope which is 1 1/4 at its farthest from the drain

2) how does this drain sit in the mud?

I'm really confused on the orientation of all of these layers and parts. I'm really not wanting to mess this up.

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Unread 08-07-2019, 11:09 PM   #6
jadnashua
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Take the clamping ring off of the drain. Your preslope should be even with the top of the bottom part of the drain. Keep the weepholes clear, some silicon on the top of the drain, run the liner over it, and clamp it down. Then, the final mud bed for setting the tile goes on top. The preslope has the required slope to the drain - you should flood test that and when done, verify that it all drains out properly. The setting bed is now done the same thickness all over, but because the preslope is literally sloped, the top surface will be as well. The riser on the drain screws in/out to adjust the height so it will put the grate at the proper height so it's level with the tile. You need to do that before you start the final mudbed, since that tends to lock the riser in place so it's hard to move it after things cure.
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Unread 08-08-2019, 07:51 AM   #7
Shirzen
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Thanks for the step by step! It helps to see the process like that.

Another question: my drain and grate are not the screw type. I'll have to take a better picture when I get home, but that grate just pushes into the drain, no threads. Should I give this drain assembly up and get a normal one?

Second question: if using this drain assembly, I don't think it has the height to clear the top mud layer. Does the top mud layer HAVE to be 1.5"?

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Unread 08-08-2019, 08:08 AM   #8
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Industry standards require the top mud bed in a traditional shower receptor to be a minimum of 1 1/2 inches, John.
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Unread 08-08-2019, 11:13 AM   #9
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So that top mud bed goes on top of the liner? How does the top drain reach the bottom drain that's seated in the preslope?

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Unread 08-08-2019, 11:56 AM   #10
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There should be a riser drain neck with a grate on top that makes up the top drain that you actually see when you look into the finished shower. This is what makes a clamping drain a "3-piece" drain. You have your top and bottom clamp and the 3rd piece is the drain that pokes up through your final mud bed with the grate flush with the finished tile.

Having turns like that in what is called "the tail-piece" of the drain before it enters the trap is a bad idea. It will slow the drain and capture LOTS of crud over time that will stink to high heaven as the odor won't be blocked by the water in a trap. As mentioned before it also makes snaking the drain more difficult. For all these reasons many plumbing inspectors would fail that installation. The proper way to do it is to dig down to the P-trap and relocate it so the drain has a straight shot into the p-trap. I do see some pretty thick concrete though and feel your pain, plus being post tension you have to be very careful about damaging cables. It looks like you could break up more of the lower level of concrete in that hole and dig all around and get enough access the p-trap (under the slab) to extend it and have a proper drain without that snakey looking mess.
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Unread 08-08-2019, 12:14 PM   #11
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http://noblecompany.com/products/chloraloy/
It's a old Video but still works. For the drain to membrane part see approx. 7:50
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Unread 08-08-2019, 01:18 PM   #12
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Is the shower p-trap the same as a sink p-trap? I can't risk cutting the slab but you are correct in that I can probably dig out that pit. Then I would, what, cut the old ptrap out, put in a horizontal curve towards my new center, new p-trap, then a 90 bend straight up with no curves above the trap?

It's a tight space to work in and I'm worried about taking more out than I have to spare. If I fudge up that piping under the slab, I'm screwed

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Unread 08-08-2019, 02:14 PM   #13
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Unread 08-08-2019, 05:29 PM   #14
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You can do this. You can actually dig out enough to even work 12-18" under the slab if needed. Hopefully its proper sand base. No 90 after the trap. The trap takes the horizontal to vertical like in pick above. Plan to get 3 22.5 degrees & 3 45s a coupler, Using those and different lengths of pipe you can get close to center.
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Unread 08-08-2019, 05:37 PM   #15
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Okay, just got home and did a little looking at the pipe. It looks like the p-trap is about 10-12" below the slab. Am I gonna cause problems removing that much sand and dirt?

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