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Unread 07-23-2018, 08:53 PM   #31
smifwal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james
keep membrane over drain hole and carve out after flood test instead of using the spin lock drain plug that I usually forget to bring.
You got some good ones there I especially like the leaving the hole covered. USG's drain the spin type plug doesn't work even though that is what they show in the dam video they have. So I have bought the inflatable drain plug and a extender hose. So you have to lug the compress in for a mouthful of air. And to boot I have had one pop at 3am, customer said it sounded like a shotgun going off in a closet. Also I think we are using the same grinder blades. When I grind or mix mortar in the house I use the shop vac to capture the dust. I got a nice hepa ready Bosch that is amazing.
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Unread 07-24-2018, 11:15 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James
Keep membrane over drain hole and carve out after flood test instead of using the spin lock drain plug that I usually forget to bring.
The problem I see with that one is not being able to test the membrane connection to the drain. What if that leaks after you cut the hole out and place the shower into use?
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Unread 07-25-2018, 11:19 AM   #33
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I always liked this kind of thread, for those interested in more tips, just a reminder about the similar thread with over 120 pages here:

https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin...ghlight=Tricks

My little hack this week is something I’ve been doing for years. When you need to use an old silicone or caulking tube but it’s too hard at the tip or you have to cut the tip way back. I just put one of those screw-in tips on top of the old non-screw caulk tube tip. The screw-on type have threads that are aggressive enough that you can screw it right into the plastic of the old tube whether it has threads or not. Can’t remember where I bought mine but I bought a package of 200 tips for almost nothing online about four years ago. Still got plenty left.

Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/CRL-Screw-Sil.../dp/B000KZUU32
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Unread 07-25-2018, 02:39 PM   #34
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The age old trick for plugged caulk tubes is to slit the nozzle lengthwise, pry out the hardened plug and then tape the nozzle back together with electrical tape.
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Unread 07-25-2018, 03:03 PM   #35
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The problem I see with that one is not being able to test the membrane connection to the drain. What if that leaks after you cut the hole out and place the shower into use?


I did think about that and I guess it’s a slight gamble. But we’re basically just talking about the immediate bond right around the drain opening. It’s pretty easy to tell if fabric is embedded or not. But, yes.


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Unread 07-26-2018, 08:53 AM   #36
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Yeah, and you're talking to a guy who has tested only one Kerdi shower pan out of the dozens he's done. I tested the one because it was in the city and had a building permit.
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Unread 07-28-2018, 10:57 AM   #37
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I'm sure many of you know about this. A painter showed me this many years ago. When tiling a kitchen back splash, you may need to patch the sheetrock. This works well for those small patches where you don't have a stud to nail to. Cut the sheetrock patch a couple inches larger than needed and score the back side about 1 inch away from the edge on all 4 edges. Peel the gypsum off the back leaving the paper on the front. This will give you a flap to overlap the hole in the wall. Bed it in with thinset. Adding a block in the wall also works. This is another option.
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Unread 07-28-2018, 12:29 PM   #38
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I got this idea from Sam's club or Costco can't remember which. I use this as table next to the wet saw
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Unread 08-09-2018, 10:58 AM   #39
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Potter's tools for cleaning out grout joints and the 2in pipe trick was out of shear laziness. I didn't want to walk out side to get clean water
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Unread 08-09-2018, 08:32 PM   #40
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Pipe deal is epic!
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Unread 08-10-2018, 06:06 AM   #41
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If the vanity is coming out, I'll sometimes attach hose bibs to the supply lines rather than just capping them. Cut an old washing machine supply hose in half and attach to the hose bibs and you've got a great bucket filler.
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Unread 08-14-2018, 06:51 PM   #42
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I am just going to keep throwing things at this thread to keep it popping up. Mortar scoop is awesome for getting a lot of mortar out the bucket in one shot when putting down backer board or large format tiles it also gets the bucket nearly clean maybe leaves about the size of a golf ball worth of mortar behind. Stand up screw gun for screwing down subfloors and backer board. This is one of the first tools I bought when I went out on my own, with every penny. And a glove over the P-trap to keep mud out and the smell in and some foam backer board for a form of sorts for around where the drain was going. I normally use card board but I had a piece of the foam next to me so I used that. In hindsight I should have slipped some cardboard under it and cut it out when I was setting the drain to keep that little bit that fell in there. I just used the shop vac. But next time. I will remember
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Unread 08-17-2018, 11:05 AM   #43
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This thing for Kerdi.



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Unread 08-17-2018, 08:27 PM   #44
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I came up with this almost 20 years ago. Bisazza has square grids that they put the tile in before it's paperfaced. I have a few of those. But on my first round spa I had to lay all the tile on the radius steps one row at a time. That was taking forever. I fill the grid with tile, paper it up, and it takes 1/10 the time or even less to do a round spa. I made the first one way back when out of some Jamo epoxy and plastic suares. A few years ago I hooked up with a plastics joint and he uses his CNC to carve me a negative. I made the files for the CNC with Autocad with the help of a pool contractor who does some killer work on CAD. This grid works with Bisazza and Kolorines. A little adjustment with the Autocad and I can make one to fit any mosaic.
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Unread 08-17-2018, 08:44 PM   #45
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