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Unread 12-06-2017, 07:22 PM   #1
Superman07
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Powder Room Floor

Good evening,
You all helped me tackled our master bath a few years ago. While I’m sad to say I eventually threw in the towel and called somebody in to finish the project, it was a good learning experience.

I’m now gearing up to tackle redoing our small downstairs bathroom floor. Probably something I should have start with originally!

We’ve purchased some 2” mosaic polished marble.

My plan is as follows:

1) pull up existing floor and tile trim
2) ensure subfloor is in good shape and clean
3) apply Schluter Ditra (modified thinset)
4) apply tile (unmodified thinset)
5) seal tile
6) grout
7) seal

Is that the correct thinset choice for the Ditra/subfloor and Ditra/tile installation?

I’d also like to confirm, per Schluter website, that tile can be applied immediately to Ditra without letting the modified thinset cure.

Any other recommendations or “watch out for”?

Thank you,
David


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Unread 12-06-2017, 07:49 PM   #2
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1,2. Evaluate existing joist structure and subflooring to ensure meeting the requirements for a natural stone tile installation. Very unlikely unless natural stone was specified when the structure was built. Joist deflection should not exceed L/720 and two layers of subflooring must be properly and differently installed to meet such standards.

3. Must be a modified thinset mortar meeting ANSI A118.11.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 12-08-2017, 07:41 AM   #3
Superman07
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Well that’s very unwelcome news. I’m not sure how I’ll be able to determine that. The room does about against our neighbors and the hvac room is directly below it. Would those wall structures help with deflection? If not, what would the easiest solution be? Adding a layer of subfloor or removing subfloor to access joists (not something I think I want to do.

After a quick measure I seem to have at least 1/2” room from top of existing tile to the transition to play with.


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Unread 12-08-2017, 10:30 AM   #4
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Hi David,

My opinion:

Since you're using 2x2 tiles I don't think I'd worry about meeting the requirements for a stone floor. And since it's only a small job I think your stated plan will work.

Although Schluter says you can get on the Ditra right after it's laid I don't recommend it. Doing that causes the thinset underneath to dis-form and create high spots. Wait until the next day.
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Unread 05-13-2019, 08:35 PM   #5
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Good evening all,

I’m bumping an old thread...well because I never got around to this. Too many other pressing matters. However, now that the weather has changed, I’m planning to tackle this.

I do have an added wrinkle I’d like to tackle. The existing shutoff valve for the toilet could use replacing. It’s currently coming through the floor via PVC.

1) Is there any trick to removing this and applying another? I’m assuming it’s glued on with two part epoxy and would need to be cut.

For installation of the steps I outlined previously, I’m considering some adjustments to include:

- Dry fitting and laying out tiles to select placement
- Labeling placement on paper and pre-cutting tiles so they’re ready for quick placement.

Previously I’ve found myself doing this in phases and feel like I’m running against the clock. I’m thinking pre-cutting will allow me to quickly lay everything into place once I mix up the mortar.

Final quick question:

2) will Schluter All-Set work to lay the DITRA and marble? (I believe the answer is yes, but want to confirm. It’s rated at AMSI A118.1 and listed as suitable for stone.)

Thank you.


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Unread 05-14-2019, 06:39 AM   #6
Elkski
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pictures worth 1000 words. you can plan the layout and precut some tiles before mixing up a batch of thin set but i think it would be hard to cut all tiles correctly before you get some started. you don't have to put thin set on the entire project and lay tiles in one batch. you have working time with the thinset in the bucket to go cut some tiles.
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Unread 08-12-2019, 07:48 AM   #7
Superman07
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Teddy - here's a picture of the valve. I haven't taken it apart yet (that's the plan for Wednesday), but after further research I should be able to slip on a shark-bite or compression valve onto the existing PVC.



Also, just to confirm - I looked up details on Schulter's site, and it's acceptable to use All Set both below and on-top of the DITRA. Correct? As a best practice, the bottom layer should be mixed thinner at the higher hydration listed on packaging, vs lower for the tile itself.
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Unread 08-14-2019, 09:37 AM   #8
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Well demo is done!

Does anybody have tips for getting old grout off the floor aside from chipping it up? Some spots are baren and like new (tile lifted right off in blocks of 2-6...), but others it stuck.
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Unread 08-14-2019, 03:18 PM   #9
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A 4in scraper like found in the paint department at home Depot or a rub brick found in the concrete section of home Depot. The brick will take longer but you won't dig in to the wood like with the scraper. Run a damp sponge over the mortar first seems to help it along. Careful with the scraper it is going to want to dig in to the wood
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Unread 08-15-2019, 08:17 PM   #10
Superman07
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Any recommendations on getting a threshold up? I can get a pry bar under portions of it and get some play, but it’s not coming up. Plus the door jam is on top of it.


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Unread 08-15-2019, 08:57 PM   #11
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That's kinda like asking how many pancakes does it take to cover a dog house, David.

Photos may help. Knowing at least whether it's an interior or exterior door would help, too.
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Unread 08-15-2019, 09:19 PM   #12
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Sometimes demo keeps on growing. It there casing on each side of door jamb. I can imagine a curb is liquid nail then maybe some screws. If you haven't experienced demo with Liquid Nails you're in for a treat. Try to save the room below. Lol
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Unread 08-16-2019, 05:36 AM   #13
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You might have to cut a section out of the center and then hopefully work the ends out from under the jamb. Like Cx said, pics would help.
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Unread 08-16-2019, 06:45 AM   #14
Superman07
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Fair point. It’s an interior door. As you can see, from inside the bathroom I’m able to get under with a smslll gap. Outside there is a much larger lip into the kitchen where I took off some quarter round.

Follow on question - what’s going to be best method to install a new piece, and when (relative to laying tile)?
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Unread 08-16-2019, 06:51 AM   #15
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Looks to me as though that threshold is under the door stops, but not the jambs. If you want to remove the threshold undamaged you'll need to remove the stops first.

I can't tell what material the threshold is from your photos. Do you see any indication of any mechanical fasteners in the top surface?
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