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Unread 06-11-2015, 12:57 AM   #31
amodoko
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I know, I'm so tempted to do a tiled base, arghh, hahaha... It is a lot more extra work though. Spoke to my family about it and they seem to be leaning towards the basic pre-fab pan, but I get the final decision so I just have to think about it...
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Unread 06-11-2015, 07:19 AM   #32
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My impression from PCs comments about high end homes was that you can sometimes find the preformed bases in high end homes, not that those bases were common to high end. My mil has a preformed base in her nice home. But tiled floors are more desirable. However, what you must ask yourself is what is appropriate for your market? Is your condo in a competitive market or one that is expected to be by the time you try to sell? Are many neighbors remodeling? Those considerations are important too, because you don't want to do something just for resale appeal only to find that buyers in your area just aren't that interested in paying more for a condo because it has a tiled shower floor OR in buying a condo that has a preformed pan. It could go either way depending on your market.
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Unread 06-11-2015, 01:34 PM   #33
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Great advice, we have been thinking about those things as well. I think in our area that either one is actually okay. There are a lot of remodels going on here right now, and I saw one just recently that had gutted the entire place and redid everything, and they installed pre-fab shower bases. So that is acceptable in my area. I really don't think it matters too much what we do (I don't even think most buyers would recognize the difference as long as the surround is tiled and nice). It's more that I kind of just wanted to do it initially for fun/try something new/thought it looked nice/etc. And that makes sense about PC's comments, as I have seen them in high-end homes as well.
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Unread 06-11-2015, 06:02 PM   #34
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IMO, based on tours of new homes and friends homes with "upgraded" builder showers, the fiber glass definitely prevails. If you do a nice job on the wall tile with a niche or two, I doubt anyone will even notice the floor.

I see the tiled shower floors in the custom home and higher end renovations. Look very nice but it takes a informed buyer to notice.

Looked at a beautifully renovated house recently with a nice slate shower and linear drain. Looked pretty but after seeing alla the shower disaster threads on the forum, I asked; have any "in progress" pictures I could look at? What kind of water proofing was used?

Don't get me wrong, I love the look of tiled shower floors and am very happy with my Master Bath reno with the Kerdi drain. My point re the fiberglass based was purely economic. It's your home, your $$$ and your choice; we are just watching from the side lines.

Last edited by PC7060; 06-11-2015 at 06:08 PM.
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Unread 06-11-2015, 07:22 PM   #35
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After thinking about it overnight and talking to a few more people about it, I am leaning towards a built-in shower pan now. It will save me some time, a little bit of money, save me some labor, and I'll be able to more quickly start doing the stuff that makes me feel like I'm getting somewhere with the project (which is building the niches, tiling the walls, etc... basically stuff I've done before and feel more comfortable with and can, thus, do quicker).

I'm thinking of buying one of these shower pans:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Aquatic-3...0?N=5yc1vZbza4

Or..

http://www.lowes.com/pd_103913-7-721...tt=shower+base

The Home Depot one says it is composite while the Lowes one says it is Vikrell.

Also, I really shouldn't over-remodel the place either since it wouldn't make much financial sense, so anywhere where I can save time and money is a plus so now I'm more okay with just doing the pre-fab shower pan. I'm not living in high-end condos, and the buyers won't be expecting tiled shower floors when we sell in a few years, so my extra work building a shower pan will feel almost pointless from a financial perspective (which can kind of suck the fun out of things).

The one thing that I've noticed that is weird, is that my floor area for my pan was 48 inches long and 35 inches wide. And the pans at Home Depot and Lowes are 48 inches long and 34 inches wide. The only real issue with that is that it may affect the drain location by a bit so maybe I will have to shim out the new pan and cbu a bit from the back wall to avoid changing the plumbing.
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Unread 06-11-2015, 08:31 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AM
The only real issue with that is that it may affect the drain location by a bit so maybe I will have to shim out the new pan and cbu a bit from the back wall to avoid changing the plumbing.
Agree it would be easiest if you can get a new pan to line up the drain but if you can't shim the pan into the exact position of the existing pipe, you can adjust the position of the existing drain line without too much trouble.
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Unread 06-11-2015, 10:26 PM   #37
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I'll try to see if I can find one the same size (doesn't seem like there are a lot of 48in by 35in pans here). If I had to adjust the line below to line up the drain, I think I would have to crawl into that crawl space to adjust it since the p-trap is kind of far down and hard to reach from above, which would kind of suck, it's so nasty down there, lol.
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Unread 06-12-2015, 04:56 AM   #38
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I think I would have to crawl into that crawl space to adjust it since the p-trap is kind of far down and hard to reach from above, which would kind of suck, it's so nasty down there, lol.

Git yer' self some coveralls and a head lamp and you'll feel like a real pro when you're crawl in' around down there.

PS. Attics are sucky too!
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Unread 06-17-2015, 03:39 AM   #39
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Hahaha! I've been working a lot lately so haven't been able to get to work on the shower the past few days. Hopefully, I'll be able to start up again on it in a few days. I really would like to finish this shower within the next month if possible and I'm sure I'll have a few more questions here and there since I'm always paranoid about doing things right

And of course, I will be uploading pictures of the process in case someone can benefit from it. Plus pictures are fun
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Unread 07-08-2015, 01:47 PM   #40
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Hey guys, didn't know if I should start a new thread or continue with this one, but I'm ready to actually get this project done. I had gotten busy with work and had to put this aside for a bit. But my goal is to get this shower done by the end of the month. So I'm going to go out and buy some of my supplies now.

I haven't been able to find a pan in my area that is inexpensive and 48 x 35 (the size I need). All the big box stores here only have 48 x 34, so I'm going to probably just get the slightly wrong size and shim out the base about 1/2 inch to get the drain to fit perfectly. I'm not too motivated to crawl under to deal with adjusting the plumbing (too many creepy crawlies there, lol).

I just have two questions for ya to get me finally started. Which pan do you think I should get between these two (similar prices, one is composite and one is vikrell and I believe there are differences in warranties too, one specifies weep holes but the other may have it too)?

This one...

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Aquatic-3...N-AW/203910190

Or..

http://www.lowes.com/pd_103913-7-721...tt=shower+base

And as far as the Durock CBU, I need 1/2 inch CBU right?


Like this, right:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_65361-325-17...l=1&Ntt=durock

I believe that is all the big stuff I need right now, I'll get all the small stuff later (tile, screws, drain, etc). Just using someone's car for the big stuff right now. I may need some more 2x4s but I can probably fit those in my tiny car later.

Once I get this all setup and the drain in, I can start doing the stuff I'm more familiar with (tiling, building niches, etc.) I'll post tons of photos of course
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Unread 07-08-2015, 08:17 PM   #41
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I'm not an expert in fiberglass shower pans but the one from Home Depot that you linked to has weepholes and looks like it can be used for tile. The one from Lowes I'm not sure has weepholes and it looks like it goes with fiberglass some fiberglass wall panels. So I say the one from HD. The Durock is the right stuff.
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Unread 07-09-2015, 10:15 PM   #42
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Okay thanks for the reply. I am fine with either one, I believe the Lowes one has weepholes from the pics (the little dips around the flange) but not sure. I actually like the look of the Lowes one a bit better from the pics but I didn't really know if there was something that was "bad" about installing either one. I believe both can be used to do a tile install but not 100% sure.
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Unread 07-30-2015, 08:21 PM   #43
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About to install a shower drain into a prefab (vikrell/composite material) shower base (I've included pictures below so you can see what I'm working with). I've never done this specifically before, I believe it is supposed to be easy but I have some questions/concerns about the process. I've already laid down the prefab shower base so you can see where the drain lines up/etc (I have not permanently attached the prefab base so I can easily remove it).

1) First, the PVC drain pipe does not line up with the prefab shower base. It is off by a few inches. Do I have to redo some plumbing from below (I would have to crawl into that crawl space which is going to not be fun) or are there products that I can buy that make this easier? I have found products like this : http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded...2PFS/202274055 ... however I would need something that is offset a bit more than 3/4 inches.

2) I am considering just using furring strips or additional 2x4s and attaching them to the wood 2x4s on the rear wall to move the base up a few inches closer to the drain pipe so that I do not have to redo the plumbing and when I install the durock it will fit properly. Is this considered safe/okay to do?

3) Last, what kind of drain do I need? Do I need a PVC drain that has a lock nut or one without one? Here are 2 that I found:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_253153-138-4...=50314993&pl=1

or

http://www.lowes.com/pd_253149-138-4...=50314985&pl=1

I'm a bit confused as to if the one with the lock nut solvent welds to the existing PVC pipe or if it somehow mechanically attaches to it. I believe for code reasons, I would need one that solvent welds to the prior PVC pipe but am not sure if the one with the locknut does that or not.
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Unread 07-30-2015, 08:53 PM   #44
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1. Should be able to move that pipe from the top using a couple of 1/8th bends, AM. You gotta replace the top section of that pipe no matter what else you do, though.

2. See #1.

3. Whatever kind the manufacturer of the receptor requires.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 08-04-2015, 05:59 PM   #45
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Okay thanks a bunch. I will use the 1/8 bends (I believe they are also just called 45 degree fittings) to move the drain location from above. I am pretty sure the shower base just needs a basic solvent welded PVC drain like this one

http://www.lowes.com/pd_253149-138-4...=50314985&Ntt=

My only other question is do you think I should bed the shower base in mortar or just lay it down without any bedding material? I was going to avoid using any bedding material (since it doesn't seem required based on the shower base structure) so if something went wrong the shower base would be easier to remove but at the same time I don't want the shower base to crack over time because it isn't supported further with a mortar bed.
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