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Unread 10-14-2019, 08:38 AM   #76
JWOrl
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OK thank you cx and Dan. Good to know it is not essential, if I choose not to spend the money on that.

Shawn, did you have a specific brand recommendation for laser level if I did decide to get one?
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Unread 10-17-2019, 08:27 AM   #77
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I need to replace part of the sill plate and also part of some of the studs. I bought some sinker nails to toenail the studs but then I read some people on the web advising to use screws for toenailing.

Is screws or nails the current best practice for this? Thanks.
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Unread 10-17-2019, 08:40 AM   #78
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"Part of some of the studs", John? If a stud is compromised you really need to replace the entire stud if possible, or simply add a full length sister to the compromised stud.

3" or 3.5" nails are just fine for toe nailing, but I prefer construction screws, and even pre-drilling if alignment is critical. And because OCD, alignment is always critical to me.
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Unread 10-17-2019, 09:17 AM   #79
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Thanks Dan.

Just the bottom parts of the studs were warped/damaged (by a leak that is now fixed) on this wall. It is a non load bearing wall so I was under the impression you didn't have to use full length studs to sister...maybe I was wrong about that...

When you sister a stud, do you just toenail at the top and bottom and then screw/nail at a 90 degree angle every eight inches or so up the stud? I haven't been able to find any videos on sistering, just a couple short "how to" articles.

I've seen some photos were someone put a horizontal 2 X 4 between two studs on the wall and ran the top or bottom of the sister into this block. Is installing one of these blocks required? Thanks.
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Unread 10-17-2019, 09:33 AM   #80
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In a non LB wall it could perhaps be argued by some that a full length stud isn't necessary, but tacking a short or half height 2X onto the existing stud creates a sort of joint, and throws off the nail/screw placement line for the wall board.

As for fastener placement, toe nails/screws top and bottom, and then every 12" along the length will be more than sufficient. It isn't like sistering a joist.
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Unread 10-17-2019, 03:26 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John
did you have a specific brand recommendation for laser level if I did decide to get one?
Sorry,I didn't see you posted again until today. I have this one, Bosch 360 Degree Three Plane Leveling Alignment Laser GLL 3-80 definitely more than you need. I never never had a problem with bosch but others here have
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Unread 10-17-2019, 07:22 PM   #82
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I've used a PLS180 (and its previous iteration) for years as a decent all around laser level, John. Some stuff it won't do, lotta stuff it will.

Good for hanging cabinets and building shelves, doing various trim work, setting electric boxes in backsplashes, plumbing interior structures, setting tile, trimming hedges (in low light only), and many more tasks.
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Unread 10-18-2019, 09:01 AM   #83
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@Dan,

Thanks, it does make more sense the way you put it, to just install an entire new stud instead of part.

@Shawn, CX,

thanks for the recommendations!
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Unread 10-20-2019, 09:12 PM   #84
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I noticed that someone (previous owner, builder...) put one of the studs with the "wide" side facing out towards the bathtub (see photos).

I think they did this because without it the two other studs would have been 18 inches on center instead of 16.

Is it kosher to have it this way or do I need to change it? Thanks.

(I realize something has to be done about both of them, because they are cut off at the bottom, and the one on the left is warping also).
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Unread 10-20-2019, 10:32 PM   #85
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He probably did that because he didn't want to notch around the pipe. We add studs flat ways sometimes but not when it's the only stud in the area. If I were you, I'd add a few studs, they're cheap.
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Unread 10-21-2019, 12:54 AM   #86
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That's probably a nailer where the sheetrock outside the tub and the wall board inside the tub meet. When the board is set in the standard way, you have only 1 1/2" of surface for a joint. The way it is done in your picture, there's 5". It allows for a little more wiggle room.
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Unread 10-22-2019, 08:42 AM   #87
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Thanks. The original stud basically collapsed off the wall when I removed the other one so it looks like I will have to put in at least 2 new studs.
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Unread 10-22-2019, 06:58 PM   #88
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I will be tiling all the way down to the floor, for the last portion of the tile where the tub ends, and then probably a Schulter trim profile edge..but am I also supposed to run the Kerdi Band all the way to the floor? As you can see in the photo the flange ends before the edge of the top of the tub so I'm not sure how the Band would be attached to the tub after that ends. Thanks.
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Unread 10-22-2019, 07:25 PM   #89
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Yeah, I hate the way these tub manufacturers are stopping the flange like that. It makes no sense to me.

Anyway, what I've done is run the membrane around that corner of the tub and silicone it to the tub.

Behind that, the wall board should go around that corner as well, with about 1/8" gap that is sealed with silicone.

Hopefully, both of those stay intact and don't peel loose, since that the only waterproofing you have. Maybe someone else will have a better method of sealing that up.
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Unread 10-24-2019, 08:44 AM   #90
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It's frustrating that neither Kohler nor Hardie seems to address this issue in their instructions.
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