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Unread 10-04-2019, 10:11 AM   #16
speed51133
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i guess that makes sense...
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Unread 10-04-2019, 10:53 AM   #17
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Seems to make sense to me also. Of course I still have the parquet.....
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Unread 10-16-2019, 03:24 PM   #18
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CX, Mike,

OK, i'm finally back on this task.

I realized my heat gun should soften the glue under the parquet I just ran a test and quickly got the hang of it, by which I mean, I can peel up the parquet without damaging the plywood. The heat gun also lets me scrape off remnant glue for a pretty clean surface. Yeah, it's a bit tedious!

However, ripping up the subfloor with the parquet and dragging 10+ sheets of 3/4" T&G plywood home isn't much, if any, better, not even thinking of the huge sawdust mess in my kitchen/house/basement and ducting.

After I screw the existing subfloor down with deck screws this should be good. Yeah, I know I might need to replace a board or a section maybe under the sink/DW.

So, I'm thinking, I bite the bullet peel up the parquet at my leisure as I have not ordered cabinets yet, clean up the surface of the 3/4" plywood and go forward.

My plan is as follows: after stripping parquet/glue, add 1/2" CBU with thinset (modified or unmodified?) underneath and screw it down (not into the joist). This will bring me to 1.25" thick, level as needed, then tile. This works very well with mating to existing wood flooring at doorways.

I like Hardiboard, though the cost is a bit more than other boards, does it matter?

My plan seems tedious, but sound to me, what do you guys think?

Mike
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Unread 10-16-2019, 04:05 PM   #19
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real cement board is better than hardiboard in my opinion. Hardiboard is fiber cement and is not as water resistant. It also cannot be scored and snapped like cement board. You need to cut it with a circular saw and it makes nasty dust. I think it wicks moisture more as well which makes setting tile a bit more difficult. I really don't see any benefit at all in using it.

this is just my non-pro opinion.
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Unread 10-16-2019, 04:29 PM   #20
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Hav'ta disagree with ya there, Mike, HB can indeed be scored and snapped, resulting in a somewhat cleaner edge than cement board I think.

A typical razor blade knife will do in a pinch, but you'll go through a mess of blades. Better is a dedicated scoring tool that is made specifically for HB.

That dust is a concern even with simply scoring and snapping, though, and I believe JH recommends a mask.
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Unread 10-16-2019, 04:44 PM   #21
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CBUs and Fiber/Cement boards all wick water to some extent, Mike (51133). And some CBUs wick a whole lot faster than Hardiebacker. Doesn't matter a whole lot in a floor application, though, eh?

Hardiebacker is really dense material, MikeG, and is very unforgiving in floor applications. You gotta really pay attention to bedding it properly in thinset mortar and filling the gaps between panels to ensure you don't have any edge telegraphing through your tile installation. Nothing at all wrong with using it in your application, just give a lot of attention to the details of installation.

The 1/4" panels I prefer to cut with a dedicated shear such as this:

Name:  51wNo+0evoL._AC_SL1000_.jpg
Views: 64
Size:  17.9 KB

And hereza photo of the scoring tool Dan was recommending (I think):

Name:  Scoring Tool.jpg
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Size:  14.6 KB

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-16-2019, 05:22 PM   #22
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Guys thanks for the great input.

As I'm fiddling with this mess, I see some of the parquet comes off easily, but some has a ton of glue under it. So, depending on how well (or bad) this goes, I think an option is, in case I can't get all glue off, to do the following.

1. Lay 1/4" thick plywood onto existing subfloor, screw down appropriately.

2. Then add the 1/4" CBU with thinset and screws, then tape and thinset joints.

3. Level as needed and tile away.

My thinking is, remnant glue and thinset might not be a good combo. Figure, I don't think I want much, if any, glue left, before I thinset the CBU on, so if it doesn't go my way, I think 1/4" plywood, followed by 1/4" CBU might be the ticket.

Make sense?

Thanks for the help on this one.

Lots of grunt work ahead of me...…

Mike G
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Unread 10-16-2019, 05:48 PM   #23
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That's the hand tool, cx, you thunk right. The deeper you score, the cleaner the snap. Not at all fun, though.

Mike, the thin set mortar isn't to bond the tile backer to the plywood (though it largely does) it's to fill voids. If it were my floor I'd be inclined to remove all the glue I could by scraping, sanding if necessary to remove any ridges-n-such, forgo the 1/4 ply, trowel on a modified mortar, and install your 1/4" or 1/2" tile backer board ontoppa that.

There may be dissenting opinions.
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Unread 10-16-2019, 06:16 PM   #24
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That's what its about dissenting opinions, er I mean discussion. We'll see how the removal of the parquet goes, but if I get the glue off, then i'll just use the 1/2" CBD with thinset. Thanks.
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Unread 10-16-2019, 07:07 PM   #25
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No matter what else you may decide to do, Mike, please divest yourself of any plan to use 1/4" plywood for any purpose in any ceramic floor tile installation. Not even particularly useful for a walking surface over your newly installed tile, but of no value at all in a subflooring package.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-16-2019, 08:19 PM   #26
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Guys, thanks for the thoughts. Ditching 1/4" plywood, back to 1/2" CBU, once parquet is up.
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Unread 10-17-2019, 08:14 AM   #27
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There is no advantage to the use of 1/2" CBU rather than the thinner 1/4" material, Mike, unless you just want to raise the height of your finished floor.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-17-2019, 09:06 AM   #28
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CX

The 1/2" CBU is to get height to match existing floor.

Mike
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Unread 10-17-2019, 09:10 AM   #29
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That's good use of it, then.
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Unread 10-22-2019, 09:58 AM   #30
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Well, life isn't working out on this effort as I thought I few posts back.

1. Heat gun to soften glue doesn't work as initially thought, only works occasionally. This glue is tough stuff and of course wood is an insulator. Basically, calling it quits on this approach, I'll be in an old folks home before this is remotely done.

2. Tried replacing 1 section with new T&G plywood, also very tedious and I'm not even in tight area yet. The good news is previous guy did not install floor under cabs or island, but i'm a long way from either.

3. Reading on Hardie site, they say the backer can be installed using adhesive, is it a crazy idea to install board this way over the existing unmovable parquet?

4. I've done many, many projects, but this one isn't getting there, suggested to wife we consider a different flooring approach...…


Thanks.
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