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Unread 08-04-2019, 05:58 PM   #16
Daimbert
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Carbidetooth,

Thanks for the advice, I agree. My wife and I are actually thinking of doing a linear drain curbless shower now..maybe 48 x 34. Schluter sells slopes offsets KSLT shower pans 48 x 48 or 72 x 36. How much can you actually cut without sacrificing drainage so can get either a 60 x 34 or 48 x 34 pan?
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Unread 08-04-2019, 10:17 PM   #17
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i'd suggest making your own pan out of deck mud. cheaper than prefab pan even if it takes you a couple tries. and a prefab pan needs a perfectly level subfloor whereas deck mud can make up for irregularities.
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Unread 08-22-2019, 11:54 PM   #18
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Advice?

Hello everyone,

Project update so far is that the plumbing is almost done. Moving the vent stack and converting the 1 1/2 drain lines to 2” took way more time than expected. Cutting the cast iron pipe was fun

As you know I went with Schlüter Kerdi line with linear drain. I am going to recess the pan to create a curbless entry. We are hitting one snafu, after I cut it, to 36” deep I might have to extend it with dry mud to 38” to make easier to connect the drain. Another issue were are hitting is the fact that the p trap don’t fit after drilling through the center of the joist to run the pipe. We can’t get it deep enough.

Any suggestions?

Another question I have is glass and hinges, specifically how much room must I leave? I plan to use schluter deco sg profile. This profile, which has a 1/2 u channel, is thin setter down and allows you to tile right up to it leaving a gap for glass installation, without drilling. In my case the profile will butt up to the entrance drain. The right side of my shower will have fixed glass while I want to make the left side have a 24” glass door. That left wall I have to frame out and I do not know how much deep past 38” I have to extend that wall to accommodate hinges for that door.

Is there a standard hinge size? Any rough ideal how deep my framing wall should be to accommodate most doors?
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Unread 08-25-2019, 08:22 PM   #19
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Can you butt linear drain against curb?

After going through all the trouble of recessing my floors for a curbless shower using 55” Kerdi line drain my wife now wants to add curb. Why? She’s afraid of flooding as she has a tendency to shed a lot of hair. How many of you have seen curbless shower back up and flood? What can I tell her to alleviate her fears. I honestly can’t fault her thinking as the bathroom is on the second floor underneath our recently remodeled kitchen.

Due to the location of my drain, I had to place the Kerdi channel body near the entrance of the shower where I plan to put the shower doors. In order to move the drain to another location would have required cutting through joists...no thank you. Here’s the million dollar question; can I butt the line drain up against a curb? Since I have a Kerdi shower pan, do I have to use a schluter curb? The shower door person we working with prefers the KBRS curbs. How would I marry a different curb brand to my schluter pan? The way the shower is we plan to put place glass on two sides on the curb.

Advice greatly appreciated.
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Unread 08-25-2019, 08:56 PM   #20
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Would be no different from putting that drain against a back wall, John, which folks do alla time.

I think your wife is making a wise decision.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 08-25-2019, 09:14 PM   #21
smifwal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daimbert
The shower door person we working with prefers the KBRS curbs. How would I marry a different curb brand to my schluter pan? The way the shower is we plan to put place glass on two sides on the curb.
How does your shower door guy plan to attach his door to your curb? Curbless showers are so popular but no one ever takes in to account what happens if it floods as your wife did GOLD STAR for her and the even more likely scenario of your house settling and water not going to the drain. 10 years ago I put a euro style bath (drain was middle of the room behind you if you were standing at the sink and the water use to go to the drain and most of it still does but now a little run off goes in front of the toilet she she has to put a towel on the floor
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Unread 08-25-2019, 10:34 PM   #22
Daimbert
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Hey Shawn,

To be honest, it was the shower door guy who highly recommended it. As he told us “I honestly don’t feel comfortable with curbless showers...what if”. The question remains, I already invested on the channel body and honest due to the drain pipe underneath that channel body needs to be at the shower entrance. Can I butt the channel body against the curb I will now install?
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Unread 08-25-2019, 11:11 PM   #23
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By what you posted I thought the boss wanted a curb. I concern with the shower guy was that he was going to drill in to your curb which is a no-no. That is why I was asking. I guess that a curb is no different than a wall in terms of containment other than it is shorter. If you are standing in a puddle, shut off the water. I am not familiar with curb he is recommended. I would use the schlutler curb and wrap it with kerdi as specified by the manufacturer
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Last edited by smifwal; 08-26-2019 at 08:44 AM.
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Unread 08-26-2019, 12:46 PM   #24
Daimbert
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Hey Shawn,

The shower door guy is actually not going to drill into the curb at all. At this point, the wife really wants the curb and in all honesty, she has convinced me as well. This all being said, it seems I have a Frankenstein shower. I was able to buy hydro ban board for dirt cheap from a friend who had leftover from his project, had to use the Schluter pre-sloped shower pan (55x55) and Schluters line drain and now their curb. I know mixing systems is a no-no but with all unexpected cost for plumbing and now electrical...something has to give.

What would be the best way to marry these systems? Use kerdi ban, all set, for the curb and seams between the pan and hydro band backer board? Use laticrete's hydro band adhesive? Someone also recommended kerdi but using ardex 8+9 over all-set. Thoughts?

Finally, do you all prefer Schluters curbs or using 2" kerdi to build your own curb?

Thanks for all the advice, has really helped.
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Unread 08-26-2019, 03:30 PM   #25
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lots of questions here... so do you have the side drain linear Schluter foam pan? I think if the drain cant be 2' from the curbless door or centered or on the back wall at like 4' then a curb is the way to go. I dont see how you had any slope to the drain if it was going to be near the door?? on my shower I think I calculated about 5-7 gal holding capacity in my 48' x 62" shower with linear drain in center. not including drain channel tray. The leak test did seem to take close to 7 gals.. more than it looks but at 2.5 GPM a shower head and possible 4 on at a time that is not a long warning time before water goes into the room. I cant say how this grate and drain screen will handle hair. But I have never experienced a clogged shower drain. that didn't give warning as the hair built up. I don't see an issue mixing curb products... just waterproof it with kerdi to tie it in to the drain. There is a flange on the drain before the attached Kerdi can go up the wall but with that taken into account the drain can be that close to the curb. and as for the glass on top of curb what folks are doing is putting on a cap granite that is 2-3 cm thick then the glass installer only drills down part way and not through the stone. but since your guy is using wall hinges then just tile the curb. I actually have a sc122 48"curb to send you if you want. half price + shipping. If you cut down your pan to much just fill the edge with the mud pack mix. 5 parts sand to 1 part cement not to much water... its easy to use... Really. you will have your slope from the foam tray to us as a scree line. really protect that foam tray with something.. I used mud floor but a foam ramp and it indented quite easily... inside the shower would have been a concern... I stepped over it everytime so i dont know how a few dents got in it.
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Unread 08-26-2019, 08:02 PM   #26
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Personally, I like the 2 inch foam for curbs but it's just a personal choice.

What I would do is build your shower pan the way that you want it with Kerdi fabric. Run the fabric up the walls at least 2 inches. Then Hydroban the walls once you are done. 2 coats.
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Unread 08-29-2019, 09:14 AM   #27
Daimbert
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Hey All

Sorry for the late reply, was called to work to cover for someone who left.

Anyway...

Teddy,

I actually brought the Kerdi line pre-slopped pan with kerdi already attached along with the channel body. I cut the slopped pan exactly with the shower body, so my pan is 53 3/16 x 36. I am gonna have a shower head with a handheld diverted. If both are on, it should be about 3.75 gpm. I went through a lot of hell getting that drain line to 2” to avoid clogs. My house is old, built in the 50”s so cant see it settling anymore. The slope from the pan, the long channel body, mow gpm and 2” should really avoid flooding no?

The only reason I went for the drain facing the shower door is simply because moving to the drain to the outer wall would require cutting into a joist, which have been butchered enough, plus downstairs kitchen soffit also interfere.

Could you explain the first part more? You’re saying the drain can’t be channel body can’t be flush to the curb?

I keep hearing I could use 2” kerdi board to make the curb. If I went with this would that mean I could make and 2” high x 2” curb?

Should I recess my pan along with the curb or would that just be a waste of time.

Finally how many of you think should go ahead with my curbless idea vs the curb?
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Unread 08-29-2019, 01:03 PM   #28
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I went to great lengths to make a curbless shower a reality in my MBR remodel, John, so I'm probably biased when I say I encourage you to do the same. Easy for me to say, perhaps, since I went with a center drain.

I frankly think "flooding" is unlikely, even with a linear drain at the entrance. I believe whatever hair gets past the grate will simply go down that 2" drain since there is no strainer. If hair gets caught on something on the way down and starts to accumulate, I have to believe it'll be evident just below the grate before it backs up above the grate.

You could further mitigate the risk by simply pulling the grate and inspecting. Perhaps once a week when you two first start using the shower. If all is clear, stretch it to two week intervals. A pattern will develop, you'll get a feel for it.

I think your bigger challenge is ensuring the water at each end of that drain actually gets channeled into the drain, instead of bypassing it.
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Unread 08-29-2019, 01:25 PM   #29
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The curbless floor is doable for sure but I wouldn't put the drain at the doorway and being upstairs, I like the idea even less. I understand about not wanting to butcher the joists so the next best thing is a curb. Even a short 2-3 inch curb will do.
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Unread 08-31-2019, 01:02 AM   #30
Daimbert
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Dan,

I agree with all you said. Also water proofing the entire bathroom using ditra and kerdi on the wall seems. I cut my pan to be the exact same length as the channel body. My channel body is 53 3/16 and so is my pan. I then plan to put a glass on two sides. I was hoping this would help funnel water to the pan.

Davy the only reason we went with the idea of curbless is because in my situation, it’s easy. No joist have to be cut because whoever remodeled the upstairs 30 years ago simply built on top of the previous one. The result is that I have to layers of plywood. Recessing that pan is simply laying it over the first layer of plywood and cutting the second to fit.

Another option we’re toying with is just creating a pony wall on the left of the shower to add some privacy for the toilet area then curb at the front. Glass is expensive so thought this idea will help lower it.

Anyone have pics or a video using 2” kerdi to make a curb?
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