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Unread 03-25-2019, 07:28 PM   #151
Themus
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I have to ask, but what is defined as the wet area? From the shower head and down?

In my case, my green drywall will start about 4" below the outlet.
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Unread 03-25-2019, 07:46 PM   #152
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Wet area is everything inside the shower. If there is a door to the shower then anything outside the door or outside the curb is dry. All waterproofing should go to at least the height of the shower head.
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Unread 03-26-2019, 11:39 AM   #153
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Tonight I should be able to put the last piece of CB up!

I think I understand. My tile as done by my contractor will extend beyond CB board to a few inches past shower outlet. My CB ends 6" below outlet. So my green drywall will extend from there to ceiling.

Where the CB meets the drywall, use fiber tape and thinset. Where drywall meet ceiling drywall, use mud and tape.

Two coats of Redguard, vertical then horizontal. Roll it and cover CB and green drywall up to where tile will end.

Do I have it right? I assume it is beneficial to cover green drywall with Redguard rather than not.
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Unread 03-26-2019, 01:48 PM   #154
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Thomas, your backerboard and waterproofing should extend above the outlet pipe coming out of the wall for your shower head. Now's the time to fix what you've got.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-26-2019, 08:41 PM   #155
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Ok I pulled down the drywall I had up and the two side pieces. I'll buy another CB to extend it up.

Frankly this is getting quite discouraging.
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Unread 03-31-2019, 05:52 PM   #156
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Done! CB board up above the shower head, the rest of the room drywall is installed; green around shower and front wall, and normal around back wall.

I am ready for my tile contractor to come and give me his estimate and review of the work.

I appreciate all the advice and wisdom shared!
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Unread 03-31-2019, 06:00 PM   #157
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Thomas, you've done all the difficult parts, you owe it to yourself to do the easy parts now so you get the waterproofing right and enjoy setting the tile.
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Unread 04-26-2019, 03:39 PM   #158
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Well I appreciate that but I want to leave that to a professional!

Now my previous contractor is not available A referral I was given the contractor said he doesn't like Redgard. He wants to use Kerdi Fabric over my cement board.

Now I have heard good things about Kerdi, but is it normal to use that over Hardi Backer? My first thought when he shared that was that it would be overkill as I though with Kerdi you really didn't need cement board.

So is Kerdi fabric over CB pretty standard?

Thank you.
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Unread 04-26-2019, 03:49 PM   #159
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Not standard per se (which would be drywall) but quite doable. There's nothing by the manufacturer prohibiting it. Just have to keep in mind that the Hardie is a thirsty board and will quickly suck moisture out of the thinset. Hence, thorough pre-wetting of the substrate is required.
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Unread 05-02-2019, 06:30 PM   #160
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Today was a pretty key day as I had a recommendation for a tile contractor come over today and survey my work and work on a quote.

To everyone's credit on this forum, he said there was only one other homeowner who did as good a prep work as mine in all the jobs he has done where a homeowner did the prep work.

As I offered him to see everything, including putting a level on the floor and walls, he grinned at my wife said. No issues.

We did discuss some of the loose ends I left undone wanting to see what he thought and I thought I would share what he thought we could do.

He is going to use Schluter Systems Plastic Waterproofing Tile Membrane over the Hardi Board. I asked him about me covering the backer screws and he said his trowel would cover those with no problem. He would extend the waterproofing membrane above the CB and a few inches over onto the green drywall.

On the shower inside walls where the green drywall meets the ceiling, he said I could finish that up with regular drywall tape and mudding.

We spent the most time talking about the 90 degree corner where in the front the CB meets the drywall. Initially he suggested a product Schluter makes like a corner bead, but has an external metal edge to it.

But as he saw my other bathroom with the bullnose pieces, we leaned back to bullnose. The idea is to run the bullnose to the corner and have the grout be the 'seam' that seen on edge.

On the backside long wall, he would run the bullnose to the end where the CB and green drywall meet, basically doing the same thing with the grout. In my last bathroom I had taped it, but he is thinking I don't need to do that as it would just have a tendency to raise that edge with the tape and mud. The bullnose would end at the joint, where then the green drywall begins.

On the floor he would use a plastic material the same as the other contractor used which I cannot remember the name right now.

He said in looking at the other bathroom, that he creates smaller grout gaps. Not as wide apparently between pieces.

So that's it. Anyone have any thoughts on the plan here?
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Unread 05-04-2019, 10:39 AM   #161
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Sounds like a solid plan to me.
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Unread 05-04-2019, 12:44 PM   #162
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One thing I'd request: Why not take the Kerdi up the entire wall? While technically not required (as long as it is at the height of the shower head at minimum), just a bit more of the membrane will cover the entire wall. It seems "cheap" to not take it up all the way. Most of us here do it that way, anyway.
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Unread 05-05-2019, 06:19 AM   #163
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Thank you for your input. I sure appreciate it.

Well looks like the contractor for this job, vs the previous one, isn't going to take the job after all. Besides pricing, he is booked up for months. I am not sure my wife could wait that long!

So I'll search for another one and work on finishing up what I can do. Which does bring me back to a couple questions.

1.) If I go ahead and tape the joints in the shower area, does it matter if I use regular tape and mud compound where the ceiling meets the wall. I know he was looking to use the Schluter fabric, but as was pointed out below, he wasn't planning to do it to the top.

2.) What should I use on that 90 degree corner where the CB in the shower front meets with the drywall on the right. I have seen one person use a 3M spray adhesive and then a corner bead.

The reason I ask is I might go ahead and then use thinnset and tape the CB joints and CB to drywall joints with alki resistant tape and might even go further by putting Redgard back into the plan.

A few more steps I could do to save costs. These two questions above are where I am needing guidance since I am back on track to do more of the prep work.
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Last edited by Themus; 05-05-2019 at 06:20 AM. Reason: typos
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Unread 05-06-2019, 08:35 PM   #164
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Just spent all night re-reading my thread and all the answers. It seems my last two questions were answered. But using fiber tape and thinset in the wet area. That includes the prior painted drywall ceiling and adjenct new green drywall???

In my first bathroom remodel, at those junctures I used drywall tape and mud and theil based primer.

Plastic, re-enforced paper tape for the 90 corner. On the drywall side mud would apply. Thinset on the CB side? I've seen some use 3M adhesive. Anyone use that?
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Unread 05-06-2019, 09:56 PM   #165
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Thomas, in dry areas you can finish the joints with drywall tape (paper is the strongest) and drywall mud. In wet areas you must finish the CBU joints with alkali-resistant mesh tape and thinset mortar. It's really that simple.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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