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Unread 03-04-2020, 03:30 AM   #1
arc2v
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Using Kerdiband on Laticrete board?

Hi all,
I am building shower with a Schluter/Kerdi shower pan and Laticrete Hydroban foam boards for the walls .

The Schluter pan fit the space better and the Laticrete boards were available locally and in the 3x5 form which made for much easier transport (I had no way of getting the 4x8 kerdi boards home and shipping was darned expensive).

Now I'm wondering what the best way to waterproof is. I have Kerdi corners and already used the membrane to wrap the curb, so I was leaning towards kerdi-band all around the bottom. That way the bottom 2 inches are still all Kerdi.

After that, should I just continue with the Kerdi band or use Latricrete tape on the walls? I have to buy a new roll of either anyway to finish. I also like that the Kerdi-band is much thinner than the Laticrete tape. Sadly my Laticrete dealer closed their shop near us so I need to order online and wait or get Kerdi-band locally and finish this weekend.

Appreciate any thoughts you all have.

Thanks,
Anthony
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Unread 03-04-2020, 06:46 AM   #2
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I think either would work, but if I had the option I'd stay with the same manufacturer.
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Unread 03-04-2020, 03:45 PM   #3
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It will work, but I agree sticking with one manufacturer is best. I build alot of showers with your exact situation except I use the hydroban sealant on the hydroban board seams. It leaves almost 0 build up compared to the membrane.
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Unread 03-08-2020, 04:07 PM   #4
arc2v
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Thanks. I ended up just getting another roll of the Laticrete band since I already had half a roll of it.

Got it waterproofed today, flood test tomorrow.

BTW, Schluter All-Set is awesome. I used to just use 317 or 4XLT for my last few projects but I'm a big fan of this new stuff (for one, I can get it locally). But the pot life is great and the consistency was perfect. It's a bit boring mixing it for the full 5+3 minutes, but the payoff was still having usable mud after 2+ hours.
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Unread 03-08-2020, 04:47 PM   #5
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Agree with the All Set comment. I’ve found when someone doesn’t like it, they usually aren’t following the mixing instructions as stated on the bag. It is very sticky stuff though, don’t leave it where you don’t want it for a few days. Much harder to get off.
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Unread 03-10-2020, 06:13 AM   #6
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Flood test failed???

So I did the flood test last night and I guess I have to call it a failure.

It was down about 1/8" after 3 hours. No obvious leak site. No water damage on the ceiling below. A few areas where the water wicked under the kerdi band, but only an inch or so.

Based on my square footage, 1/8" means a 1.5 gallons of water down. Definitely not evaporation, but that seems like enough to have been more obvious where it went.

I reset the drain plug and just filled the drain up to the first "lip" to see if it holds. I'm hoping it was just the plug, because I have no idea how to find a pinhole in all this.

Any thoughts? Thanks.
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Unread 03-10-2020, 06:33 AM   #7
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What are you using for the plug, Anthony?
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Unread 03-10-2020, 06:42 AM   #8
arc2v
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Rubber twist plug. I think it is an Oatey. Thought I got it tight enough. It held some test water for a day, but I only put an inch or so in that time (not enough to touch the membrane).

This flood test put about 3 to 4x that pressure on it.
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Unread 03-10-2020, 08:49 AM   #9
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Probably going to want to use one of the inflatable ones, available at the big box stores. Depending on your drain set up you might need a small extension for the valve and, of course, an air source.

You need to insert the inflatable plug down into the riser far enough that it isn't covering the riser to drain flange joint.
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Unread 03-10-2020, 02:49 PM   #10
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My test fill slowly failed today, so it is the plug (thank God).

I just noticed it has a lip and I'm pretty sure I did not fully seat it before tightening yesterday. That may have been my problem.

I'm going to let everything dry out, Kerdi-fix a couple of spots that I didn't like the water penetration (it warped a tiny bit and the water pulls in more than an inch in a few spots). I should be able to repeat the flood test on Thursday.

If that fails due to the plug again, I'll go out and get an inflatable one.

Thanks.
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Unread 04-26-2020, 11:05 AM   #11
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when to remove spacers and clean tile?

Hi all,
Just got around to tiling the shower floor. Schluter All-Set over Kerdi, herringbone porcelain mosaic tile.

I had to use a lot of spacers to get the sheets and small triangle pieces all lined up. I was pretty good about squeezeout, but not perfect.

With so many spacers in the way I couldn't give the tile a good wipe down as I went. My question is: when should I pull them and start cleaning off the tile surface?

I'll have to also dig out a few grout joints, but I'd rather make sure the surface is good first.

First time working with All-Set as a setting material. Worked great for the membrane and corner bands.

Thanks all.
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Unread 04-26-2020, 11:09 AM   #12
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Anthony, I would recommend you wait no longer than it takes for the mortar to take an initial set and hold the tiles in place. I've not used that All-Set product, but it shouldn't be more than a couple hours 'till the tiles are firmly in place and you can remove all your spacers. I'd not want to wait any longer than that to clean out the grout joints and the surface of the tiles.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 04-26-2020, 11:15 AM   #13
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How long have they been down, Anthony?

If you can reach the entire shower floor without getting your knees on it I'd start cleaning it now if they've been down for a couple of hours, and start clearing the grout lines of mortar now also.

Work your way in from the shower entrance. If you need to place a hand on the tile use something that will spread the load out while still bendy enough to conform to the floor. Maybe one of Mrs. Anthony's favorite paper back books.

We won't tell.
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Unread 04-26-2020, 02:11 PM   #14
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Thanks guys. Sadly I had to go fully into the shower, but it was after 3 hours of setting and most of the tiles didn't budge. I tried hands and knees to keep load spread at 3 to 6 points and I moved very deliberately, no twisting or steps where all my weight was on one spot.

Pulled the spacers and wiped everything down. That all-set already had to be mechanically removed (using a flat wedge spacer or fingernail), but residue wiped off. Same for the grout, but it was still easy to clean the lines. Wiped everything down and then did a dry wipe so I didn't flood it with too much extra moisture.

I had a couple border tiles shift, but I carefully put spacers back in and wedged them into place. Shouldn't' be back in there for another day or so. Thankfully it's white marble-porcelain with white thinset and white grout, so if I missed a spot. . .

Thanks for the advice. This one step saved me probably hours of scrubbing and gouging out grout lines. Pics when I get some.
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Unread 04-26-2020, 03:52 PM   #15
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Pic, as promised:
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