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Unread 11-10-2006, 10:50 PM   #106
Jay C
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With CBU you have to have a lot of screws in addition to using mortar between the CBU and ply floor. But that's what I did too. I wasn't trying to raise my floor, but I did by at least an inch. Of course mortar can be used to build up the floor too. But I'm not the pro so be sure you check with Flatfloor to make sure everything is kosher.

Jay
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Unread 11-13-2006, 12:16 PM   #107
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Jay-

Maybe all SLC is the way to go (nix the CBU). What I was thinking was doing 2 separate pours. The first would set the mesh in place (but probably not completely cover it). The second would get me up to the height.

The first pour (1 bag) will give me a little experience, and I wouldn't have to worry about about everything flowing to a finished, level surface. After that sets up, finish off with a top coat that gets everything level. I'm worried that the wires would impede smoothe flow on the first pour and I'd be fighting the clock trying to get it perfect. With the wires mostly covered, the second batch would probably flow a little better.

Any thoughts?

Can the SLC stick to itself ok?

-Jay
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Unread 11-13-2006, 03:01 PM   #108
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Nope you have to reprime.
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Unread 11-13-2006, 03:26 PM   #109
Jay C
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What Jim says. You have to reprime (and that can get expensive). The major lesson (well one of the them anyway ) that I learned wit mixing/pouring SLC is that there is time. It doesn't go from liquid to solid in seconds. The mesh is a lot better about not "float" since you can staple/nail it versus the clips carpet tape I tried to use.

You can do the pour. I was sweating the time like Cinderella at 5 to midnight and I rushed some of the partial pours when I didn't need to. Even after the pour you can "fix" things with extra mortar. I'd love to have a second try at the pour, but I'm also glad it's over. My dumb ass mixed SLC in my upstairs hallway (I built a plastic tent but the stuff is so fine it coated everything with an electrostatic charge) again trying to save time and reduce the chance that I might spill/drip/slosh anything on the way up the stairs. If you can mix mortar you can do the SLC. Follow all manufacturer's directions, have at least 1 helper (someone that can handle a 1/2" drill and help you lift 50/60# bags of SLC), a 1/2" drill with recommended mixer, clean water, and enough buckets (with handles and strong enough to support the weight of SLC and water) to mix 1 batch while another is being poured/cleaned. As you know I bought enough buckets to do the whole thing, but I didn't need to.

I'm rambling, but I'm excited to try and fix my mistakes.

Jay
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Unread 11-13-2006, 10:45 PM   #110
JMingrone
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Thanks for the tips,

I'm probably worrying too much. I only have about 40 sq ft, but ever since I bought the heat mesh I wondered how the SLC would flow around it. But what the heck, if it doesn't (or I don't mix enough), I can reprime and finish it off later. Looks like this weekend!

-JayM
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Unread 12-10-2008, 10:58 AM   #111
Jay C
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2 year update

The Warm Tiles system is still working. The only snag I had was that the original thermostat when out. Warm Tiles sent me a free replacement. The new one is better as it shows the temperature but some relative value. We leave it off in the summer, but it's still my son's favorite room in the fall and winter

I'm amazed that my photos for this project on webshots still get 200+ views a week. If I had it to do over, I would have used a 220 circuit. On the coldest days, the temperature is 30 to 40F outside and the floor can only maintain 86F. But I wouldn't hesitate to use Warm Tiles on any future tiling project and can recommend them highly in both cost, customer service, and quality.

Jay
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Unread 12-10-2008, 11:01 AM   #112
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Thanks for the update, Jay.
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Unread 12-10-2008, 02:15 PM   #113
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Thanks Jay.
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