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Unread 03-05-2020, 03:10 PM   #16
Fast eddie part deux
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You're probably correct cx. I cleaned my glasses and looked closer ... might be an easy install. And if the tles are more or less period correct it could look good.
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Unread 03-05-2020, 04:50 PM   #17
Markhousereno
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Thanks everyone

- Good information about the Flexbond. Yup, that bag is open a few months so I will pick up a new bag of Versabond.

- Yes, the tiles will be on top of the brick and inset. Should be more or less flush with the brick after install.

- John - I hear you on keeping it as is but I lost that battle a long time ago. Grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change etc. She also wants me to paint the remaining brick with a whitewash
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Unread 03-05-2020, 04:51 PM   #18
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Last question .... is 1/4 inch square notch ok (8 x 8 tile)? ..... or do I need to go bigger given that they are 1/2 inch cement, so are a bit heavier than ceramic.
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Unread 03-05-2020, 08:00 PM   #19
cx
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Mark, the trowel notch size is correct when you can achieve the industry required minimum of 3/32nds of an inch of mortar covering a minimum of 80 percent the back of each tile after the tile is set. You also want the minimum of squeeze-out into the grout joints. The coverage is mandatory; the squeeze-out is optional.

Your 1/4-inch square notch may be just fine for your application, but it will depend upon your technique and just how flat the brickwork is where you plan to tile.

Set a tile. Pull the tile off the substrate. Check the coverage. Adjust your technique or/and your trowel size based upon the result.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-21-2020, 04:51 PM   #20
Markhousereno
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Had some forced free time on my hands with everything that is going on and got around to doing some additional work on this project.

Added tile, lighting, wood trim, mirror, white washed brick etc.

I'm sure some folks will be horrified by the painted brick but I have a tough boss and she is happy.

Still undecided as to when we change out the hearth but it's ok for now.

Thanks for all of the help and advice.
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Unread 03-21-2020, 06:53 PM   #21
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Nice. Like the 60’s retro look of the fireplace and mirror.

Really hoping you were going to crack open your hearth. Got one just like and I’m curious how hard it will be to replace. I also need to level mine out with floor. It’s about a inch higher that floor and is a trip nuisance.
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Unread 03-21-2020, 08:06 PM   #22
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I'd probably use the same tiles on the hearth that you used on the face.
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Unread 03-22-2020, 05:45 AM   #23
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Nice update, Mark, looks great.
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Unread 03-22-2020, 06:31 AM   #24
PC7060
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Mark - I recently had my 1920’s chimney and and fireplace inspected. Apparently those type of shallow fireplaces were intended for slow burning coal fires. I have no fire brick inside my fireplace either. Nor do I have any masonry or ceramic lining in the chimney, just bare brick.

Without a functioning liner, my fireplace is rated for natural gas ventless fireplace. Inspector did say that the unlined chimneys don’t have as much the problem of water building up between layers and freezing. No liner, no layers for water to seem into.

I know my chimney had been perforated a couple times in the 40s to add small coal fired stove when it was a boarding house. Inspector said this would’ve also disqualified it for use as a wood-burning fireplace since it would have destroyed the liner. Guess I’m double lucky.

The good news is the second flue the chimney which services the boiler has a relatively new stainless steel liner that is in great shape so that’s one less headache I have to worry about.

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