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Unread 03-20-2020, 11:10 PM   #1
burn123
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Antifracture Membrane

Hello,

I’m rebuilding a tub/shower and using Hardi backer. I’ve used alkali resistant tape and thinset for all seams and corners and will be using Redgard as the waterproofing. My question is about using 6” waterproofing anti-fracture membrane. Should it be utilized over all seams and corners, or just the corners?
I’ve applied the first primer (dilluted) coating of Redgard and will apply the anti-fracture membrane in the first full application.
I appreciate anyone that can guide me in the right direction.

Thank You,

John
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Unread 03-21-2020, 12:14 AM   #2
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Welcome to the forum, John!

Okay, the way you’ve asked about “using 6” waterproofing anti-fracture membrane” is confusing in my mind. I’m wondering if your intention is to only use the RedGard...or if you also have another product at hand.

But I can say this without knowing the answer to my question:
If you’re using RedGard as a waterproofing membrane (which is also an anti-fracture membrane if it’s applied at the correct thickness), you need to apply it to 100% of the substrate you’re tiling over.

Second question: what has you concerned that you want anti-fracture properties? Is there a specific concern? Or is this just a general thought of trying to do a great job?

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Unread 03-21-2020, 06:40 AM   #3
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Hi Bubba,

Thank you for your response.
I’m using Redgard, as it’s available and I’ve used it on another remodel I did years ago.
I’m asking about the use of the 6” membrane, as I’ve watched numerous videos in which they embed the membrane into the liquid waterproofing. So, if I were to use it, I would still apply the Redgard over the entire surface.
To answer your second question, I guess I’m trying to do a great job and just make certain it’s done correctly and waterproof. Other than that, I don’t have any anti fracture concerns.

Thanks
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Unread 03-21-2020, 08:55 AM   #4
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Hi John,

Since you've already applied mesh tape and thinset in the corners you don't need any other membrane. The RedGard will do the job for you.
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Unread 03-21-2020, 09:06 AM   #5
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The use of reinforcing fabric in the corners is optional with Regard, if I remember their instructions correctly.
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Unread 03-21-2020, 09:32 AM   #6
burn123
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John, Kman,

Thank you for your insight. When you’re wired like I am, it’s easy to second guess and over engineer.
One last question on this project. I’m using 3x12 subway tile for the walls and will likely use versabond. Any suggestion on the proper trowel to use?

Thanks again
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Unread 03-21-2020, 09:40 AM   #7
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For 3x12 tiles, I'd use 1/4 x 1/4 notch.
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Unread 03-21-2020, 10:00 AM   #8
burn123
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Thanks Davy!
By the way....This is a great site, John. Congratulations to you and to all that share their knowledge and expertise.
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Unread 03-24-2020, 10:26 AM   #9
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Hello,

Ive got another question that I need advice on.
I furred out the walls so the face of the Hardi is proud of the tub flange approximately 3/16", so there will be no interference laying the tile in plane down to the tub deck. However, Im not sure how to fill the gap between the Hardi and the tub deck. This is what I'm thinking about doing, and I'd like input whether it will work or not.
I have access to strips of Wedi board. So the thought is to cut strips for the recess, trim the back of the strips to allow a flush fit, and bond the strips to the bottom of the Hardi and tub flange with Wedi Sealant. After the sealant cures, I would then apply fiberglass mesh over the joint and apply thinset. Then I would apply Redgard as per instructions.
Ive applied the primer coat to the Hardi including the bottom edge of the Hardi. I've attached a photo of the tub flange. By the way, it is a steel tub installation.
Can anyone way in and let me know if Im on the right track.

Thanks,
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Unread 03-24-2020, 10:37 AM   #10
burn123
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Hello,

Ive got another question that I need advice on.
I furred out the walls so the face of the Hardi is proud of the tub flange approximately 3/16", so there will be no interference laying the tile in plane down to the tub deck. However, Im not sure how to fill the gap between the Hardi and the tub deck. This is what I'm thinking about doing, and I'd like input whether it will work or not.
I have access to strips of Wedi board. So the thought is to cut strips for the recess, trim the back of the strips to allow a flush fit, and bond the strips to the bottom of the Hardi and tub flange with Wedi Sealant. After the sealant cures, I would then apply fiberglass mesh over the joint and apply thinset. Then I would apply Redgard as per instructions.
Ive applied the primer coat to the Hardi including the bottom edge of the Hardi. I've attached a photo of the tub flange. By the way, it is a steel tub installation.
Can anyone way in and let me know if Im on the right track.

Thanks,
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Unread 03-24-2020, 10:51 AM   #11
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Welcome, John.

Best option might have been to bring the wallboard down over the tub's tiling flange on the drain side, but that ship has sailed.

What you're suggesting is probably doable, but I usually recommend to folks that they use a strip of a sheet-type waterproofing membrane, bonded to the tiling flange (and tub where the flange ends) with a suitable adhesive sealant and to the CBU with thinset mortar.

Pre-filling the gap between the face of the wallboard and the face of the tub flange is not usually necessary unless you plan to use mosaic size tiles in that area.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-29-2020, 11:16 AM   #12
burn123
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Thanks CX. I appreciate your input.
The reason I did not fur out the walls enough to bring the Hardi down to the tub deck is the deck is very narrow along the side, otherwise I would have done so.
So the gap at the flange between the Hardi and the the tub deck is 1”. I’m using 3x12 subway tile. Is it ok to set the tile without filling the gap? Or would it be better to fill and bridge the gap before tile installation?

Thanks
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Unread 04-03-2020, 10:45 AM   #13
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Fabricating Niche

Hello,

I couldn’t find a prefabricated niche that fits the dimensions I need, so I’m going to make one using wedi board and sealant. My question is relative to the vertical
dimension of the niche so the horizontal lines of the subway tile align at the upper and lower joints. It seems if I make the vertical dimension the same height as the tile height, the tile layup inside the niche won’t fit correctly as the thickness of the thinset will cause gaps.
Should I build the niche 3/16”-1/4” taller to account for this?

Thanks,
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Unread 04-03-2020, 12:08 PM   #14
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John, let's keep all questions related to this project on this thread so that questions and answers aren't duplicated, and the history is in one place. We can give the thread a different title if you want.

When laying everything out for niche placement, there's two options. There may be others, but these two I'm familiar with.

One is to dry lay everything out on the floor and take very careful measurements, checking everything several times to make sure you have it where it needs to be. The other is to set your tile on the wall up to where the niche will start, then cut the hole in place so you know exactly where it will fall.

The second option requires you to waterproof that area after you've built the niche, so you have to stop installing tile at that point. Depending on the type of waterproofing used, you may have to allow an extra day or so for it to dry.
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Unread 04-03-2020, 01:03 PM   #15
burn123
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Hi Kman,

Thanks for your reply and help. I’m comfortable with where the tiles will layout, but I’m not sure how the thickness of the thinset will affect the upper and lower tiles inside the niche. I’m using porcelain subway tile, so the grout joint will be small. Should I make the niche slightly taller and fill that gap with thinset to make the bullnose tile fit properly to the wall field tile?
I hope I’m explaining it in a way that’s understandable.

Thanks
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