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Unread 02-11-2019, 11:25 PM   #31
laostirch
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I’m sorry , I think I wasn’t clear of joist, what I meant to say is, the joists are only twice much of bump out length( so say the bump out is 2ft, total added on joists were 4ft) has original foundation where original perimeter of th house sits on and the bump out is cantilever, hope what I’m explaining is clear😐
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Unread 02-12-2019, 12:49 PM   #32
clifton clowers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laostirch
I’m starting to regret hiring this contractor.
My experience is that the quality of the work is unlikely to improve over time. Indeed, as a relationship sours, it is likely to go down. I have had several contractors tell me that they have tricks for hiding issues, but the reality is that the only trick is to do it right in the first place.

It's better to cut your loses while you can - a stitch in time and all that.
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Unread 02-12-2019, 02:38 PM   #33
jadnashua
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I don't have much faith in a 2' cantilever done the way yours was to be stable enough to tile over. Nor in the use of the materials selected. There are manufacturer's recommendations that should be followed when using any product, along with industry guidelines for a reliable job.
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Unread 02-12-2019, 04:04 PM   #34
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i Kept writing and erasing my posts because it becomes venting. Instead, I’ll ask any of you if you guys can recommend tile installer( can I say that?) in Southern California?

Jadnashua,
I went out this morning and measured cantilever, actually 1ft out, (that 3ft I was talking about was still not the original foundation footing but there are another foundation footing 1ft away from edges,when I use deflector calculation, at least have 500 or higher, -old growth true 2”x6 1/2”, 24” space—— anyways, both powder rooms, definitely do over, good thing on the work done so slow is that none of the tile has been ser, so only 3/4-1” concrete to break. Total deja vu losing sleep over house improvement project, anyways please PM me if you know any good tile installer who has some knowledge of carpenter as well.

Thank you
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Unread 02-12-2019, 06:44 PM   #35
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A cantilever is a strange thing. The deflecto calculator assumes EACH end of the span is supported - i.e., the length is between supports. While 1' isn't all that much, there's a wall and structure sitting out there on that lever. This can not only depress that outer edge, but cause the interior to be levered up.

Before we re-engineered and rebuilt it a different way, I had a deck cantilevered (not my design). It caused the center of the dining room to rise over 2", but it took 15-years to do it. It stuck out further than your 1' (about 5), but still...the sill plate acts like a fulcrum.
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Unread 02-12-2019, 07:46 PM   #36
Just In Tile LLC
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What part of southern California Renee?
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Unread 02-12-2019, 07:51 PM   #37
laostirch
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Jad, this is exactly what has been happening to my floor!, because edge joist are pushing down, the other end of joist is up hence I have this pretty noticeable bump on the powder room2 and adjacent library room that also sits on perpendicular to the joist (where beautiful original quarter sawn is sits on)

Ok, with jad’s point on the deflection rate cant apply same on cantilever situation, I’m slowly embracing an idea of giving up on tile installation on that room for now Unless I address this issue, I see no point on proceeding with tile.

Jad, would you mind sharing how you address this issue? I know the codes from state to state or even city to city varies but would be really interested to know, I didn’t tell you guys but this powder room is unpermited, not sure if this is worthwhile to hire the structure engineer to work on such small area, go through city, or I can cover linoleum( urghhh) for now and when I’m ready to go through with city for proper size additional bathroom, ( maybe within 2 years) then I’ll addresss this proper, sorry this site for tile installation related and I’m on and on, I’m the first one among my friends/gmail to own a single family house where you needs constant care unlike condominium or town house, it’s so hard to turn into, seeking advices. I guess now that my mind is almost made up, I need some “push” from pro like you to put some senses on me, I’m open to close that bathroom, turn into closet, file a repair permit.
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Unread 02-12-2019, 07:52 PM   #38
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Justin,
I’m in Los Angeles, 90018!
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Unread 02-12-2019, 07:55 PM   #39
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Renee, if you'll add that geographic location to your User Profile it will remain permanently in view. If not, it'll be lost by the time we leave this page.

If you're serious about finding a new contractor, start a thread in the Professionals Hangout with that request and a geographic location in the title. Add a link in the body of your post to this thread for any project discussion.
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Unread 02-12-2019, 08:12 PM   #40
laostirch
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Ok, CX, will update it once I get home and stop by professional link, ( stopping by 7-11, because I need a beer, lol)thank you!
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Unread 02-12-2019, 08:18 PM   #41
jadnashua
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The engineer that redesigned our decks (I live in a townhouse of condos) used steel and a suspension system to hold the outer edge...think triangles.

I don't know how best to resolve your situation.
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Unread 02-12-2019, 09:21 PM   #42
laostirch
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Bump to se if my location shows!
I’ll refrain myself from seeking professional for now because my contract with current contractor is still valid, hate to waste anyone’s time!
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Last edited by laostirch; 02-12-2019 at 09:27 PM.
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Unread 02-12-2019, 09:36 PM   #43
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It shows , enjoy the brew.
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Unread 02-12-2019, 10:22 PM   #44
laostirch
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Thank you Jim, noted! I had a similar experience with trenchdrain questions in Houzz forum, everyone is so helpful, I feel like I have an extended family, thank you, all of you!
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Unread 02-17-2019, 10:10 PM   #45
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hi all,

Bit of update, my contractor and I met today and went over the concerns that I have, we agree that he will rip out the tiny powder room watery deck mud/ self leveling and start over, we’ve decided to hold on 1’ cantilever room as I’d like to see some quality workmanship done on the first room first while I’m waiting on a structural engineer’s input on how to strengthen the joist to withhold deflection rate of L360 on the other room.

I know my decision to continue work with this contractor raise some concerns but I’ll take a few days off from work to go over every step with him to make sure the job will be done by standard. Maybe he acquired a license but maybe running a business side of it? Or he’s been gotten by doing what he’s been doing but I’d like to get things done by national tile association. I told him I’ll be involved in every steps. Told him I wish I like his workmanship so far as much as his personality, He wasn’t being defensive, and willing to work with my request, So I’ve decided to give it a second try. Anyways...

We all know this contractor is not capable to achieve leveling by dry pack mud, also my joist span is true 2x5 1/2” in 24. O.C, so adding that much of weight is might not be a good idea. Currently my subfloor material is ACX EXTERIOR grade 23/32” thick, when my contractor ripping out the concrete, he might ruined this subfloor, so I’m thinking mind as well ripping out 3/4” subfloor and start over as below

1. Change to 1” tongue and groove,(or 1 1/8”?)
2. Pour self leveling in low spot( prime first!!)
3. 1/4” cement board
4. Thin set and grout

Since leveling floor with deck mud is out of his skill, I’d like to save us from an agony by more simple approach, hope I can get a green lights from one of you guys. When I hear from the structural engineer’s plan on cantilever room. I’ll be sure to share it here

TIA!
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Last edited by laostirch; 02-17-2019 at 10:18 PM.
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