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Old 07-14-2018, 12:21 PM   #16
Davy
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Like this.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/27-in-x-...LATH/202093395
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Old 07-14-2018, 12:21 PM   #17
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Davy, the issue is I have metal studs which were a whore to drill into. If I install the lathe what other means can I use to install it?? I have nail gun, are there special nails I can use??
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Old 07-14-2018, 12:38 PM   #18
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I would have made the walls out of concrete blocks but it's too late for that. You will have to screw the lath to the studs about every 6 inches apart. Then add some in between the studs to hold the lath against the cement board. You may have to add small flat washers to the screws and pre-drill the holes thru the studs. I know it's a pain but the mud won't stick to the cement board.

Edit; I've never worked with metal studs but I believe they make self tapping screws that with will drill into them.
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Old 07-14-2018, 01:31 PM   #19
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Ralph, at your local Homer's you can find these self-drilling lath screws. I've used them a number of times to attach plywood to 14ga steel square tubing for shelving. Should be no problem driving them into steel stud material.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 07-14-2018, 02:23 PM   #20
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screws and lath have been ordered. I need some schooling please. What I dont understand is if a scratch coat can to clean cinder block why cant it stick to the rough side of a cement board:It looks to be almost the same texture
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Old 07-14-2018, 02:41 PM   #21
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OK, I guess I am not one for getting back to the basics and working with self-made mud. Why not just use a good quality medium bed mortar like Prolite which will stick to the board perfectly and hold the stone without a problem. It’s a premixed product, known to work, and is easy to use. And if you are looking at waterproof, why not HydroBan or other waterproofing prior to stone?
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Old 07-14-2018, 02:44 PM   #22
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Topspin, I know nothing about that stuff. I have $3500 of stone veneer coming in from Mass and I am afraid of screwing it up. There is so much product out there my head spins. I was just looking at Laticrete brand polymer mortar for the hell of it. I never heard of prolite
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Old 07-14-2018, 03:20 PM   #23
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Hi Ralph, not to dissuade you from what others have said above, I am just looking for their input on why not use today’s most modern materials instead of the old method. Prolite is by Custom Building Products. Laticrete makes excellent products as well. Just saw a This Old House show stone wall done using Laticrete 254. That stuff is bulletproof. My comments not meant to confuse, just looking for clarity myself.

In the photo below, I used a common cement board affixed to the wall, coated with two full coats of Laticrete Hydroban, then set the veneer which was about inch and a half thick with CBP ProLite. Installing it was as simple as can be, the hardest part was selecting stones that mixed in well and had good balance overall. Pro venier guys might laugh at my install, but it is never going to come off. That was the plan from the beginning.
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Old 07-14-2018, 03:22 PM   #24
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Okay, I mentioned the concrete blocks because in my opinion, it makes a better backing. Most of the time, especially on something like you are building, we still would use lath over the blocks.

I mentioned the tar paper because it works and it's cheaper that Hydroban. I feel that if you have any water issues it'll be with water seeping under the walls, which would happen even if Hydroban is used.

As for using thinset instead of lath, it works in many cases but I have also seen walls floated with mud straight to the concrete blocks and cracks appear inline with the joints in the blocks. If that were to happen, it's possible the cracks could transfer thru the stone that he installs. I've never seen this happen when lath is installed.

I wouldn't count out the old school methods, some are still standing after several hundred years.
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Old 07-14-2018, 03:39 PM   #25
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If you are not committed to going one way or the other at this moment, take a look at the following video to give you both ways of going. I chose to start my process at 5 minutes 30 seconds into the video. Using medium bed mortar or you could use Laticrete’s MVIS on a cement board like you have.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5AqFZP246_s
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Old 07-14-2018, 04:00 PM   #26
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Ralph, One other thing to note in regards to some of your responses you’re getting. Take a look at the number of posts some of these Pro’s have. I am a neophyte compared to the two above who know of which they speak. The old/let’s call it traditional method definitely has proven to work. But there are also easier ways that are more user-friendly that can work as well also. Just a choice.

No matter what you choose you must, must follow the instructions and methods explicitly. And if you choose to go with a medium bed type product make certain to follow the directions of that specific manufacturer on installation procedures.
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Old 07-14-2018, 04:06 PM   #27
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Thanks guys, I appreciate the help. If I was a good mason I would have built it out of cinder block, trust me. But I am not and I cant afford to pay someone to build one for me.
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Old 07-14-2018, 04:12 PM   #28
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Before the stone goes up and such I need another opinion. This barbecue island is directly on the ground, the cement boards are touching the ground as well. Should I raise the entire island 1 in and put azek trim or Trex under it for support. I am worried that the steel and the cement boards will absorb the moisture from the concrete all the time and start to rot down the road.
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Old 07-14-2018, 04:15 PM   #29
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Like the video showed, fat mud has been used for a long time to bond cultured stone which I've never been a fan of. Fat mud doesn't have the bond strength needed in my opinion and it does fail quite often. I do like the idea of a thinset type of mortar to bond the stones.

I find it funny how Laticrete represents the old school method, they show a sad looking scratch coat that isn't rough enough to hold much of anything.

Edit; Ralph, I agree that it's not a good idea for the island to be in contact with the ground, especially with the cold climate you have. I'm not sure of what type of platform or base could be made at this time. It has to be getting quite heavy. I'm a concrete type of guy. I would think along the lines of lifting the island and moving it out of the way and removing the pavers. Then, pouring a raised base for the island to sit on.
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Old 07-14-2018, 04:37 PM   #30
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I would be a fan of having some airflow underneath there. Also maybe there is some type of non-absorbent, non-compressible, all weather pucks you could put under load points which would raise it up maybe 1/2 -1” off the concrete. For additional airflow.

Trex and some other types of wood look products I believe contain some percentage of absorbant components. So would really try to stay with something that cannot transmit any water.
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