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Old 07-17-2018, 12:01 PM   #91
ss3964spd
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Thanks again Wayne. I imagine if I need to run some kind of conduit I'd run the cold tails and sensor wires through it all the way to the box. But that does mean I have to swap out the plastic box for a metal box.

WG, I think Wayne meant aligning the right edge of the t stat with the right edge of the 3 gang cover plate, and the left edge of the shower control with the left edge of the 3 gang cover plate.
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Old 07-17-2018, 12:09 PM   #92
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Dan, I'm planning to use the blue plastic Carlon box along with their flexible PVC ENT type conduit and snap in connectors for the cold leads and sensor wire. No metal and no glue. I linked 'em over in the other thread.
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Old 07-17-2018, 12:12 PM   #93
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OK, except the sensor wires can't be in the same conduit as the cold tails. But you can zip tie the sensor wires to the outside of the conduit if you want.

If you want to use ENT or LFNC, you could still use a plastic box, although you'd need to switch to an "ENT box". But if you want to use metallic conduit then a metal box is the way to go.

Also, assuming your 3 gang is staying where it is, moving the thermostat elsewhere will make running your conduit easier.

Cheers, Wayne
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Old 07-17-2018, 12:48 PM   #94
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Thanks gentlemen, all this input/feedback has really helped.

I rather like the idea of having all the controls/switches grouped together. But If I have to go to a 2 gang ENT box for the stat I'll have to re-think the component spacing. Further, if I have to switch to a 2 gang ENT box I might even reconsider using Laticrete's system over Schluter.

There's a lot of wiring AC wiring in that stud bay, so in a way running flexible ENT for the stat might be easier since I won't have to worry about it touching the AC lines.
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Old 07-17-2018, 12:51 PM   #95
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Jeff - this this the conduit you're using?

http://www.carlonsales.com/flexplusblueent.php
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Old 07-17-2018, 01:09 PM   #96
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That's it. I ordered a 25' roll of the 1/2" blue conduit. They make a double gang 4" box with plenty of knockouts along with the snap on connectors and ENT mud plate it all should be pretty easy to work with.
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Old 07-17-2018, 02:27 PM   #97
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There are 1 gang ENT boxes, e.g.:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-Gang-2...-CAR/202077343

Cheers, Wayne
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Old 07-17-2018, 05:42 PM   #98
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The cool thing about the blue conduit is when you take a 4, 5, or 6 foot section and twirl it around; it makes a neat droning whistling sound. Anything longer and you wind up whacking yourself in the head. Ask me how I know...
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Old 07-24-2018, 06:53 AM   #99
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2nd subfloor layer - fastener spacing

Major milestone - I cut and fitted the 2nd 3/4" layer of subfloor. Like a glove. Decided I needed to do the floor so that I can install the heated floor so that I can get the rough in electrical inspection done so that I can close up the walls. So, that's that.

Recap: 16" OC 2X10 joists, 2X's screwed to both sides of each joist, and 3/4" below the joist tops, 3/4" T&G ply screwed down between the joists.

Question is, do I treat those 2X cleats as joists - since they are fastened directly to them, or do I screw the 2nd layer into those cleats? Curious because if I need to stay off 4.5" of joists and cleats it leaves me with about 11 1/2" between the cleats.

Given the 11.5, how would you space the screws?
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Old 07-24-2018, 08:07 AM   #100
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Dan, in your situation I would treat all parts of that subfloor as equal and orient my second layer of subfloor per this article from our Liberry and use their fastener schedule without regard for joist location. That is based entirely upon my own experience and consideration. See my warranty information below.

I'm presuming you oriented your between-joist layer of plywood with the strength axis perpendicular to the joists.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 07-24-2018, 08:47 AM   #101
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If you use 1.5" screws and avoid the joists proper, any penetration into the cleats will be minimal as per the article.

Cheers, Wayne
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Old 07-24-2018, 01:15 PM   #102
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Thanks CX. And yes, I did orient the between joist layer with the strength axis perp to the joists.

Thanks, too, Wayne. But what I've found is unless the screws actually go all the way through the bottom of the 1st layer by 1/4" or more many times they tend not to hold. Probably because the first 3/8" or so of the screw is tapered and fluted which just doesn't leave enough of its full diameter and thread depth to get a good bite.

The 2nd layer of subfloor in the shower area is 1/2 ply over the 3/4" ply. I'm going to use 1.25" screws for that because I couldn't find 1.5" screws. The main floor is 3/4" over 3/4", for which I'm going to use 1.75" screws. I made sure that none of the seams of the 2nd layer line up with the T&G seams of the 1st layer.
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Old 07-24-2018, 02:03 PM   #103
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You're correct, Dan, that the industry requirement when fastening engineered sheet to engineered sheet the screw must extend fully through the bottom of the bottom sheet.

Again, I don't think it's gonna make any difference in your application whether the top sheet fasteners do or do not penetrate the joists.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 08-01-2018, 09:37 AM   #104
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Well, that was a lot of screws. Consumed the vast majority of a 5 pound box of 1 3/4 #8 construction screws. The 1 1/4" screws for the 1/2 ply over 3/4" ply were just not doing the trick so used the 1 3/4" screws there too.

Decided to go forward with Ditra Heat and Schulters programmable thermostat. Not the WiFi model though - as I'm hard pressed to see the need. Thanks to Wayne, who provided its measurements in a previous post (I wasn't able to find the measurements in any of Schulter's online materials), I cut out a cardboard template, then installed a 3 gang switch plate, and was able to get the right edge of both lined up. The t-stat box needed to go left by 3/16" in relation to the 3 gang below.

I also followed Jeff's (I think it was Jeff) recommendation; swapped the box for an EMT box and used some 1/2" flexible EMT conduit and the super easy snap in connectors. Ran conduit for both the cold leads and the temp sensors. I'm pretty sure I went a little over board on securing the conduit. Also substituted cable staples for the plastic nail on cable spacers. The whole mess isn't as tidy as I'd like but there is a lot going on in that bay.

Plumbing, electrical, and framing concealment inspections scheduled for Friday.
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Old 08-01-2018, 09:38 AM   #105
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Not sure why the pics are sideways - I even rotated them before posting.
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