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Old 02-22-2014, 08:03 AM   #76
Mathelo
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Hopefully these are better. I almost forgot but I probably should install some cross bracing.

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Old 02-22-2014, 08:44 AM   #77
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Are Cross Braces Needed?

Based on a quick read of "Details For Conventional Wood Frame Construction" http://www.awc.org/pdf/wcd1-300.pdf it would seem that the cross bracing is unnecessary for my situation. The relevant section on page 7-8 reads:

Bridging
Adequately nailed subflooring will maintain the upper edges of floor joists in proper alignment, Nailing the ends of joists to band joists or headers, Figures 11 and 24, provides additional joist support that, under normal conditions, eliminates the need for intermediate bridging. Where the nominal depth-to-thickness ratio of joists exceeds 6, or where builders have encountered problems with twisting of joists in service, intermediate joist bridging is installed at 8-foot intervals....


Not only do my 2x8s pass the depth-to-thickness ratio but with the addition of the sister joists they should be even less susceptible to twisting. The ends of the joists are of course nailed to the band joist on one end and a header on the other. Joist span is under 12'.

What do you think?
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Old 02-22-2014, 09:18 AM   #78
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Cross bridging is not necessary in your application. It is helpful for long span of tall joist to minimize twisting of the joists under load. With short height and span along with the double joists your floor is good as is. Your framing looks very neat, BTW. Nice work. It's good you doubled the joists where the 2" lines go through, otherwise the hole violates the max bore for a 2x8 joists.

As this picture shows, I installed blocking around toilet area in my hall bathroom reno to ensure I had a solid mount for the toilet flange. I also included blocking to help support the subfloor between joists under a deep tub. None of this is required for your bathroom unless it helps you sleep at night.
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Old 02-22-2014, 10:58 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PC7060
Cross bridging is not necessary in your application. It is helpful for long span of tall joist to minimize twisting of the joists under load. With short height and span along with the double joists your floor is good as is. Your framing looks very neat, BTW. Nice work. It's good you doubled the joists where the 2" lines go through, otherwise the hole violates the max bore for a 2x8 joists.

As this picture shows, I installed blocking around toilet area in my hall bathroom reno to ensure I had a solid mount for the toilet flange. I also included blocking to help support the subfloor between joists under a deep tub. None of this is required for your bathroom unless it helps you sleep at night.
Thanks! Good to know I can save a little effort somewhere. My toilet will be a wall mount so no blocking in the floor required there.
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Old 02-22-2014, 03:30 PM   #80
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Agree on no need for bridging. It wouldn't hurt anything if installed correctly, but not needed.

Framing looks good and clean. Double check your nailing, test your plumbing drains if not already tested - maybe just pour water down and look for leaks, make sure wires weren't damaged, double check water supply's, etc... then carry on.
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Old 02-22-2014, 03:39 PM   #81
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Lookin good Louis. Did you get 1/4 inch per foot on the drain?
I always flood test plumbing overnight. Watch for pinhole leaks.
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Old 02-22-2014, 06:42 PM   #82
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Did you get 1/4 inch per foot on the drain?
I always flood test plumbing overnight. Watch for pinhole leaks.
No way to get 1/4". I had to settle for 1/8".

How do I flood test the plumbing? I can pour water in but it will drain immediately since it it tied in to the main trunk.
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Old 02-22-2014, 06:51 PM   #83
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Framing looks good and clean. Double check your nailing, test your plumbing drains if not already tested - maybe just pour water down and look for leaks, make sure wires weren't damaged, double check water supply's, etc... then carry on.
Dana,

Thanks! I have many nails and screws. Check

Wires are good. Check

Still have to run the PEX.

Still have to test the drains. Would love to do an overnight test but I don't see how.
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Old 02-22-2014, 07:22 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Louis
How do I flood test the plumbing? I can pour water in but it will drain immediately since it it tied in to the main trunk.
If you have a clean out downstream somewhere you plug the line with a test balloon, like this one. You also plug the open trap inlets and seal everything off so the new DWV system will hold water. I think you're supposed to pressure test the system this way up to the vent (to fully ensure you have not only no water leaks but sewer gas leaks) but testing it up to at least flood height of your sinks would be helpful too. I had to do this on my addition project to pass inspection. Huge pain in the keister to crawl under the house and plug the system but worthwhile; found a slow leak in the shower drain line where the pipe didn't seat squarely in a fitting.
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Old 02-22-2014, 09:08 PM   #85
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I'd staple off the wires to the joists too while you've got access.
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Old 02-23-2014, 05:35 AM   #86
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I'd staple off the wires to the joists too while you've got access.
Yes, doing that today.
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Old 02-23-2014, 05:41 AM   #87
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If you have a clean out downstream somewhere you plug the line with a test balloon, like this one. You also plug the open trap inlets and seal everything off so the new DWV system will hold water. I think you're supposed to pressure test the system this way up to the vent (to fully ensure you have not only no water leaks but sewer gas leaks) but testing it up to at least flood height of your sinks would be helpful too. I had to do this on my addition project to pass inspection. Huge pain in the keister to crawl under the house and plug the system but worthwhile; found a slow leak in the shower drain line where the pipe didn't seat squarely in a fitting.
The toilet and its drain is removed so I think that is my best access for a test balloon. My clean out is in the basement. I'm picturing a big mess downstairs if I plug the line in the basement.
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Old 02-23-2014, 06:36 AM   #88
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I ran a garden hose full blast in all of my new drain lines and called that good enough. No inspections here.
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Old 02-23-2014, 06:43 AM   #89
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LOL, a garden hose may or may not work.
If you can get one of these , it will be very little of a mess.
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Old 02-23-2014, 06:59 AM   #90
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I think my best drain test will be at the toilet drain. You can see here I have pretty good access and I won't have to worry about the rest of the house.

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However, I'd have to get the plug past the 90 degree tee to where the sink and tub drain tie in a couple of feet down.

Will I be able to get a plug past this tee? More importantly, will I be able to get it out once done?

Looks like this would work but kinda pricey compared to the others. http://www.petersenproducts.com/114-0_pipe_plug.aspx
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