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Old 02-12-2018, 01:11 PM   #31
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Thanks for the heads up Jim and Robert! I will heed that advice.

So, I WAS able to get a sheet of 7/8" OSB this morning. I feel a lot better about getting exactly what I needed. I am still most likely going to have to apply some leveler on it though, which shouldnt be a big deal.

One question though: Should I use a scrap 2x between the two alcove walls to keep the leveler from flowing outwards, or just let it flow as it wants to, lettting it creep outside the alcove shower stall area?

Any recommended brand of leveler?
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Old 02-12-2018, 02:14 PM   #32
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Dam up any area you don’t want/need the leveler to go into.
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Old 02-12-2018, 04:52 PM   #33
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Thanks Chris. Any specific type/brand to look for? I am out of level less than 1/4" from side to side and I'm going over OSB.
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Old 02-12-2018, 05:17 PM   #34
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kerdi foam shower tray over OSB

No brand recommendation from me. Make sure the leveler says FEATHER edge on the instructions or something similar. Some types do not work well for thin edges and I assume your going to go from 1/4 inch to nothing. Good idea to dampen the OSB before you apply the leveler. CEMENT based only !!!!! No gypsum levelers !
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Old 02-12-2018, 06:36 PM   #35
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Thanks again Robert. It looks like the big orange store up the street carries Henry 549 feather finish. Looks like it should work.
Thanks again for the replies and help.
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Old 02-12-2018, 07:34 PM   #36
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kerdi foam shower tray over OSB

Henry products in general are usually fine. Have everything set to go BEFORE you mix it. Mix a bit more than you think you need and get after it. It will set up way quicker than you expect at times.

P.S. I often use drywall screws installed into the floor with the head sticking out at the height I want the finished floor to be. Used as a depth gauge so to speak. Put them about every 11 inches if your using a 12 inch long trowel. Saves lots of time getting the leveler or whatever your doing at the right depth. Just leave the screws in, no need to take em out.
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Old 02-13-2018, 08:06 AM   #37
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That's a helluva tip, thank you Robert!
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Old 02-13-2018, 03:35 PM   #38
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Henry makes one called liquid backerboard that is designed to get to a feather edge over OSB or ply (I'm sure on ply, double-check over OSB). Most of the others can only be applied to a feather edge over concrete or a suitable backer board...i.e., not over a subfloor. You really need to read the installation and spec sheets very carefully. It's easier to get things level when applied thicker, but that may not be what you want because of height stackups. Make sure to follow their instructions on the primer...some have very strict time windows between the primer and covering it with the slc.
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Old 02-13-2018, 04:01 PM   #39
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Thanks Jim.

I did check the instructions. It says no wire mesh or primer needed, and can go from nothing (feather) to up to 1/2" thick I believe, but I will double check. It did not exclude OSB either, which I found most of the other self-levelers and liquid backers did.

Im going to give it a try and let it dry/harden. If I have any doubts about the integrity I will tear it out.
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Old 02-13-2018, 06:18 PM   #40
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Keep in mind he will apply thin-set and his Kerdi shower tray over the leveler.
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Old 02-13-2018, 06:26 PM   #41
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You'll be surprised how quickly the stuff solidifies! The use of really cold water might give you an extra minute or two. Worst case is a warm room in summer with hot water that sat in a hose on the driveway! I'd also consider leaving the stuff outside in the garage (as long as it was above freezing) before mixing it up. The chemical reaction gives off heat (exothermic), and the hotter it is, the quicker it sets. IOW, you have to be fast. The time between liquid and starting to set can be quite abrupt.

If you want to reuse any of the tools, make sure to clean them up quickly too!
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Old 02-14-2018, 06:22 PM   #42
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Jim and Robert (and others) thanks so much for your help and advice.

The week has already gotten away from me so I am planning on getting my drain lines tied in, new OSB section down and leveling this coming weekend. Evenings after work are way to rushed!

Jim, it does look like the feather edge stuff hardens quickly! Thanks for the advice on the cold water. I hope all goes well, the kids aren't going to like us sharing their bath space for too long!
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Old 02-14-2018, 08:23 PM   #43
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Once it starts to get stiff, it will go off quickly. Think of trying to flatten a partially frozen puddle that you stepped on...hard chunks do not leave a flat surface. The biggest issue with SLC is that it doesn't really self-level...it may get close, but surface tension prevents that unless you help it along (think pancake batter - it doesn't spread to fill the pan like water would, and even water beads up a little).
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Old 02-14-2018, 08:27 PM   #44
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Well, im fearful but interested. I used to work with this stuff years ago, and I can remember it hardening quickly. Almost like a hydraulic cement.

One question: Now that I will have a cement based leveler, I am guessing I would want to use a non-modified?

I was planning on using modified if I went directly on top of OSB. I'm thinking the leveler changes that thought.
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Old 02-14-2018, 09:01 PM   #45
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Either will work to anchor the foam pan. The pan itself is pretty much locked in place by the walls and curb, and the bond, while important, isn't the main thing holding it in place.
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