Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-11-2018, 02:08 PM   #16
JMG
Jason
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Indiana
Posts: 46
Thanks Kevin. Sorry about that. I knew better than to start another thread!

Your probably right but I might have a hard time if it isnt in stock to order one sheet.

I was wondering if glueing together two sheets of 7/16 would do the trick, using something like gorilla glue and clamping. It's really a pretty small area and unfortunately right around the center drain. I would of course brace the bottom side with 2x to stiffen things up a bit.

Thoughts?
Attached Images
 
__________________
Jason

Last edited by JMG; 02-11-2018 at 02:21 PM.
JMG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2018, 02:16 PM   #17
wwhitney
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Berkeley, CA
Posts: 980
Best to get the 7/8" OSB to match. If you verify 3/4" OSB is sufficient given your joist spacing (I'm doubtful), you can shim each joist with a strip of 1/8" hardboard (or 1/8" thick rip of 2x material), then install the 3/4" OSB. How are you going to handle the butt joints perpendicular to the joists of your new and old OSB?

Cheers, Wayne
__________________
Wayne
wwhitney is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2018, 02:24 PM   #18
JMG
Jason
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Indiana
Posts: 46
Thanks for the reply Wayne.

At the butt joints, I will use 2x blocking between, regardless of what I use.

Hopefully I can get a single sheet of 7/8" tomorrow and make life a bit easier :-)
__________________
Jason
JMG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2018, 02:26 PM   #19
Kman
Moderator
 
Kman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NW Arkansas, Ozark Mountains
Posts: 9,543
Since you're using a tray, I think you better get the 7/8". If you were using a mud floor as your base, having the floor a little uneven wouldn't matter. With a tray, it has to be perfectly flat and level.

I'd be concerned about the deflection between the joists with something thinner, as well as getting the height of the patch to match the rest of the floor.
__________________
Kevin

The top ten reasons to procrastinate:

1.
Kman is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2018, 02:27 PM   #20
JMG
Jason
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Indiana
Posts: 46
Thanks Kevin. I think your right.
__________________
Jason
JMG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2018, 02:37 PM   #21
wwhitney
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Berkeley, CA
Posts: 980
Is your existing OSB in the alcove dead level in both directions? I understand that to be a requirement for the foam trays.

Cheers, Wayne
__________________
Wayne
wwhitney is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2018, 04:55 PM   #22
JMG
Jason
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Indiana
Posts: 46
Well damn. I'm good front to back (32" depth). Not so good side to side. About 1/4" off with a 6 ft. Level. Not good. Ouch.
__________________
Jason
JMG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2018, 04:58 PM   #23
Kman
Moderator
 
Kman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NW Arkansas, Ozark Mountains
Posts: 9,543
A mud floor instead of the tray would solve that problem, as well as the subfloor issue.

Are you moving the drain?
__________________
Kevin

The top ten reasons to procrastinate:

1.
Kman is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2018, 05:38 PM   #24
JMG
Jason
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Indiana
Posts: 46
Yes, I'm moving the drain to the center. I need to get rid of the old trap and cap off then tie in a new trap.

I'm ok with a mud bed. I was worried about the added weight given the 24" o.c. I joists (9-1/2").
__________________
Jason
JMG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2018, 05:53 PM   #25
Redlands Okie
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 148
kerdi foam shower tray over OSB

The Kerdi foam shower tray needs to be applied with thin set under it ? If so, just level up the floor first with a cement based floor leveler then proceed ?
__________________
Robert
Redlands Okie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2018, 06:08 PM   #26
JMG
Jason
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Indiana
Posts: 46
Thanks for the reply Robert. That would be ideal for me right now.

The only problem I can see is installing the drain and not knowing how much wiggle room I have after I plumb the trap. Guess perhaps I could shim up the foam drain spacers to level to find my drain height?
__________________
Jason
JMG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2018, 07:48 PM   #27
Redlands Okie
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 148
Once you level the floor your in same position as you thought you were to start with.
We usually cut the vertical drain pipe after the base is down.
Is the drain pipe PVC ? If so a tooth cutting wheel on a shaft for fitting to a drill allows cutting the PVC from inside. Works fine.
Could do the same with a drimal tool or die grinder on metal pipe, just take your time.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Inte...7516/204277491
__________________
Robert
Redlands Okie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2018, 08:52 PM   #28
JMG
Jason
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Indiana
Posts: 46
Thank you. That makes sense!
__________________
Jason
JMG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2018, 09:06 PM   #29
jadnashua
Veteran DIYer- Schluterville Graduate

STAR Senior Contributor

 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 12,291
If your trap and drain pipe is not supported from below, when you try to push the drain down to make the joint...it will push the drain itself down. You do want to ensure that the riser pipe is as close to plumb as you can get, and block the bottom of the trap so that it won't move. Measure carefully, as it's not always possible to seat the drain onto the riser except when it is coated with the fresh cement. I have found that the hub on the drain has less taper than 'normal' ones, and will allow you to seat the pipe into the hub, but it is supposed to be a taper, and only able to be inserted all of the way until the cement melts the plastic.
__________________
Jim DeBruycker
Not a pro, multiple Schluter Workshops (Schluterville and 2013 and 2014 at Schluter Headquarters), Mapei Training 2014, Laticrete Workshop 2014, Custom Building Products Workshop 2015, and Longtime Forum Participant.
jadnashua is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2018, 11:16 PM   #30
Redlands Okie
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 148
kerdi foam shower tray over OSB

Very important points Jadnashua has pointed out. No need to learn the hard way
Metal strapping or plumbing tape, blocks of wood or something.
__________________
Robert
Redlands Okie is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Kerdi-shower-st (tray) ckrezler Tile Forum/Advice Board 12 03-09-2013 07:03 PM
Kerdi Foam Shower Pan Adhesive Question vtcrusade Tile Forum/Advice Board 6 12-30-2010 11:05 AM
Leak betweem foam tray and subfloor Caljack Tile Forum/Advice Board 4 07-12-2007 10:02 PM
Foam bench mentioned in Kerdi Shower book - link is wrong GHR Tile Forum/Advice Board 3 06-15-2006 06:34 PM
Kerdi drain near edge of shower and Noble ProSlope vs. Kerdi Tray vs. mud Hickory Tile Forum/Advice Board 8 12-07-2005 03:42 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:19 PM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2018 John Bridge & Associates, LLC