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Unread 01-08-2021, 03:55 PM   #16
Elkski
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So there is a slope on the joists? That would help by 1". I didn't show anything about the door. My drawing is sideways but it is how flashing needs to look to protect that red corner. I was trying to show how hard it is to flash areas like that where 3 planes meet.
I made sketches and had a sheet metal shop fabricare pans for my two pella sliding doors. One pan 60" and one 80". I also have used the plastic door pans in my garage and they are no good. The plastic cracks.

https://www.thermatru.com/explore-pr...ct-information
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Unread 01-08-2021, 04:42 PM   #17
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Any exterior deck we do has a roofer involved, Troba mat, mudbed,ditra, and kerdi,You dont have room for that Personally I would not do this job based on your height issues and recommend getting a roofer and put Trex or similar and skipping the tile.
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Unread 01-08-2021, 11:28 PM   #18
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On the joists, there is not a slope. Any slope there is is actually going in the wrong direction (towards the house just slightly. Overall it is null, but between a couple members that is a little variation. but I would call it no slope.

Thanks for those links. The sill pan link is great. I was looking for something like that.

The TREX is beautiful. I am seriously considering this. I also never thought a roofer for the job. I did seek a second opinion from a tiling company and maybe having a "specialist" do the balcony work, and let the stucco company do the stucco work. I really like this TREX stuff.

Regarding the flashing, that is very helpful on so many levels. It gives insight into what to keep an eye out for.

I already had observed a small detail that caught my eye, they did not use any hangers for the ledger and joist connection to frame the balcony and wanted to rest only the ledger on the beam column and let the joist essentially be supporter only by the generic nails they used.

For stucco I think they got it covered, for some of these other details, they cannot be an expert in everything and I am considering pulling a permit to ensure it passes inspections.

Also the outside roofer is a great idea!
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Unread 01-09-2021, 10:32 AM   #19
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Jay, pulling a building permit on this project is a very good idea, but keep in mind that the building code is the absolute minimum requirement for any portion of the construction and many code compliance inspectors are not even aware of all those minimums. You can't depend upon code compliance to save you from less than competent contractors.

Once you have satisfied the structural requirements of your local code, I'd strongly recommend you find one of the ceramic tile industry accepted preparation methods that fits your application and do whatever it takes in your particular situation to prepare your structure to use that method.

Not really reasonable to depend upon outsiders such as you'll find on the Internet to see and correct all deficiencies you might have. Best we can do is tell you in general what you need to accomplish your goal. You need to determine what it will take in your specific situation to make each of those things happen.

We can tell you the deck must be properly sloped; we can tell you what you need to do to slope it. We can tell you that it needs to be made properly watertight and flashed to adjoining structure; we can't tell you exactly how that must be done without being on site. We can tell you what types of materials you must use or not use to prepare for the ceramic tile installation; you'll need to make the selections to suit your application. Etc.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Last edited by cx; 02-25-2021 at 06:55 PM. Reason: typo
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Unread 02-25-2021, 06:50 PM   #20
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Final result

So I wanted to close the loop here. I told the contractor lowering the joists and putting stripping hazard in front of my door was unacceptable. They added furring strips to create a slope on the joists. Then laid the original 1-1/4” subfloor. Then installed flashing and Miracote. Then I opted for a tile stencil pattern to match the floor below. They wanted to tile this deck like a shower floor, but I read that in freeze thaw cycles, if not sealed the cement board can expand and contract. Houston just went through several freeze thaws so I felt better. I would be interested to know if the claims are true and those folks with cement board outdoors on their decks had issues. In any event, the miracote is ultra thin and matched the allowances better than cement board and tile. Main concerns were wind blown rain. When finished I will post a couple pics
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Unread 02-25-2021, 07:57 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay
...but I read that in freeze thaw cycles, if not sealed the cement board can expand and contract...
In a ceramic tile application the cement board would be covered with a direct bonded waterproofing membrane, Jay. Would not be much affected by the freeze/thaw cycles.

This is the product you used? And your guys installed all seven layers completing all ten steps required? Interesting product. I'll look forward to the finished photos.

And your code compliance official was happy with the structure?
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Unread 02-28-2021, 11:49 AM   #22
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Some pics included.

Code compliance really did not focus on the deck subfloor. I am
Glad I had a permit pulled! Will not work with a future vendor who gripes about permit after this. My contractor is rated the best in Houston and charges the most. When tearing out 20 year old stuff, things have to be brought up to code as a part of doing work. Also there were unnecessary delays by project management.

The city inspector caught 3 items. plating on the framing for hurricane proofing was missing, the deck beam at grade was not bolted into the cement footing, and the grinder arrangement required a metal hanger instead of a couple nails since the beam did not support the complete joint.

I was satisfied though with adding furring strips on the trusses to have a sloped decking. I emailed the city about this and they responded with no issues. Probably why they did not focus on this when coming out because I had sent so much on the deck to them.

Yes your link to miracote is correct. Here in Houston there is an abundance of westcoat. There was no additional charge for doing this system vs cement board. There is up charge for any pattern (about 2k). Overall just a deck of 4’ by 8’ is about 7-9k. Actually, some contractors are completely moving to this and avoid cement board and mud beds.

Not sure why they did the pan after the miracote. Also not sure why the lip on the custom pan on the inside. Now my door threshold looks funny!
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