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Unread 11-26-2019, 10:10 AM   #1
Old_Smokey
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Advice for backer issues found after Redgard applied

Hi everyone,



Been reading this forum for weeks straight as I'm in the middle of my first bathroom renovation and tile project. I had a Bathfitter style tub and surround that failed so I decided to gut the lot and start fresh. My house is from 1938 in the Canadian prairies, so it's not flat, level, or square, and is subject to some real temperature swings!



My plan was to use Wonderboard Lite 1/2" on the walls, followed by Redgard then subway tile. On the floor I used 3/4" plywood screwed through the old planks and joists, thinset and 1/4" Wonderboard Lite, followed with 7" hexagon tiles from AMES.



The tub is a MAAX Bosca unit, installed in a bed of mortar.



Here's my challenge - I spent a ton of time shimming and sistering studs to get my walls flat to within 1/16". I have a window in the 5' wall, and a small niche in the wall opposite the tub controls.



I taped and thinset all the joints and seams a few days before applying Redgard. Someone how I missed a 1/8" bulge at the lower right corner of my window. Looking through my pictures, the backboard looks to have been cut and installed correctly, so it must be a bulge of thinset and tape. Now it's covered in Redgard. This is going to cause a real ugly issue when laying the tile...



I found some cracking in the corners of my Redgard anyway, from over application. What's my best option here? Cut the Redgard back and grind that thinset flat? Float the thinset out around it to hide it? It's white 3x6 tile with black 1/8" grout lines.





The floor went in ok. I have one bad tile that needs to be replaced. And two or three spots with maybe 1/16" lippage. I'd say an 8/10 job. Not the worst for my first time ever, but I had hoped for better


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Unread 11-26-2019, 10:19 AM   #2
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Advice for backer issues found after Redgard applied

Some progress images just for context.

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Last edited by Old_Smokey; 11-26-2019 at 11:31 AM.
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Unread 11-26-2019, 11:30 AM   #3
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just shave it down with any tool. Rasp, grinder, chisel, etc.

Then re-apply tape and thinset to patch it and re apply redgard overlapping the existing redgard.

as to the cracks, do not gob it on. just paint a thin coat, let it dry, then another thin coat, let it dry, and one more if you want.
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Unread 11-26-2019, 11:31 AM   #4
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Welcome to the forum, Mark.

I would use a scraper with a razor blade and aggressively shave that bump off the wall. Then fill any gaps with mortar, let it dry, and reapply Redgard. You want that wall really flat for those subway tiles.

Did you use mesh tape and mortar on all the board seams?
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Unread 11-26-2019, 11:45 AM   #5
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What the others said, grind it down and apply more Redgard. I would get all that Redgard off the window, it'll be easier now then after you tile it. Of course it would have been easier to clean when it was wet. If you're not, keep a bucket of water and sponge handy.
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Unread 11-26-2019, 12:06 PM   #6
Old_Smokey
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Thanks guys. I’ll trim back the redgard and use a diamond grinding wheel to get that flat.

I used 2” mesh tape and thinset on every seam and corner. I’m thinking that tape didn’t lay flat or something and I didn’t catch it. I’ll get things flat again and reapply the redgard, overlapping a couple inches afterward.

I was feeling real bad about this but now I have a plan


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Unread 11-26-2019, 12:23 PM   #7
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Once the Redgard is dry, you can apply a thin coat of thinset with a wide putty knife or flat trowel around the window. After it sets, go over it lightly with sand paper or rub stone to knock down any ridges or humps. Like Kevin said, the flatter you get the walls, the easier the tiling will be.
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Unread 11-26-2019, 12:33 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davy View Post
Once the Redgard is dry, you can apply a thin coat of thinset with a wide putty knife or flat trowel around the window. After it sets, go over it lightly with sand paper or rub stone to knock down any ridges or humps. Like Kevin said, the flatter you get the walls, the easier the tiling will be.


Davy, are you suggesting to remove old redgard, grind down the hump, reapply redgard, then float around the window (over new dried redgard) with a thin layer of thinset?


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Unread 11-26-2019, 04:55 PM   #9
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Yes, nothing wrong with doing that as long as its thin, say 1/8 or less.
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Unread 11-26-2019, 04:57 PM   #10
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Wonderful. I like that idea, should really hide and blend in these little mistakes. I’ll post some results when I’m finished.


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Unread 11-26-2019, 05:00 PM   #11
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Of course the wider the putty knife or trowel is, the more gradual it will be.
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Unread 11-26-2019, 06:55 PM   #12
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Advice for backer issues found after Redgard applied

Peeled off the Redgard. Some places were really hard to remove, others came off a bit easier than I expected but not like it was nothin. I took the grinder to all the high spots. It was mostly excess thinset, and one spot where kerdifix oozed out. I’ve got the entire window perimeter to within about 1/8” of the rest of the wall. I’m going to float a later of thinset with my 12” knife and blend it in. I should be good to tile after that.





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Unread 11-26-2019, 06:58 PM   #13
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Why is there kerdi fix there???????
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Unread 11-26-2019, 07:05 PM   #14
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Advice for backer issues found after Redgard applied

I used a bit of kerdifix between the window vinyl frame and the back of the cement boards that makeup the window sill and jams. Not to bond the boards together or anything. It was just to act as a secondary waterproofing between the cement board and window. Looks like a bit oozed out.


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Unread 12-01-2019, 05:26 PM   #15
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Urgent advice needed!

Hi everyone,

I'm almost finished tiling my surround and hit a snag.

I tiled around my niche using bullnose tiles and have a snag. I framed it 1/8" too short. So my grout lines match everywhere expect at the top where I have a double width, 1/4 grout line. It just screams out as this is white subway tile, black grout.

What can I do here to fix this? My only thought was sandwich one or two pieces of 1/2 cement board to bring the 'top' down and make it look deliberate.

I tried shaving a tile down a bit, but they're only 1/4" so there isn't much left.

Also the top ledge tapers from left downward to the right a bit.
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