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Unread 10-23-2019, 06:05 AM   #16
Davy
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Hi Mark.
1. I don't know if leaving the float strips will hurt anything. I don't like the idea of having wood swelling or rotting behind the tiles. I've never left them in the mud, it's a step that the installer is skipping, laziness I guess. I'd tell him to remove the sticks and fill the void with mud.

2. I think anyone that has ever mudded showers has had a crack here and there. I remember buying some bagged mud that left a lot of small hair line cracks. I didn't like it and never used that brand of mud again but it didn't cause any problems.

3. Small voids usually get filled with thinset when tiling and are not a problem. He shouldn't have any large voids and holes. I rub my mud with a rub brick before tiling. I also vacuum the walls after rubbing to remove as much dust as possible. Some would say this is over kill.

4. I use tar paper on the studs also and I do add Redgard or other paint on membrane in niches. I feel the paper breathes enough to avoid a moisture sandwich. But, I don't see the need in covering all the walls with it if they did a good job installing the paper.

5. I would not do this because there's no way to make a positive seal with the Redgard to the drain. Moisture will find it's way in the mud bed under the Redgard.
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Unread 10-23-2019, 07:10 AM   #17
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HI Davvy

thanks for the reply. The contractor is going to remove the float strips. He made it seem like he was planning on removing it, however it doesnt make any sense since he already redguarded over the area. In any case he says he will remove float strip but NOT fill in area with mortar. Then he will redguard it. He says he will fill in that gap with epoxy when he slabs shower. Doesnt make sense because I feel like he should fill in that gap with mortar first, then redguard over that.

Also if he already redguarded the shower floor will that be an issue if we hotmopped under already? I know you said you wouldnt do it, but what if its already done?

Thanks again.
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Unread 10-24-2019, 03:10 AM   #18
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So I spoke with contractor and asked why float sticks were not removed. He make some excuse that his plan was to remove the float sticks after mortar was already set for a week and redguard placed OVER the mortar and float sticks. This doesnt make any sense. In any case, he removed the float sticks, but he didnt fill in with mortar and simply redguard over the area again. Here is a pic of a part of shower wall now. For some reason pic is sideways.

My concern is if this will affect how the large porcelain slabs will adhere to the wall. The porcelain slabs will be large as in 8 feet tall by 4 feet wide.

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Unread 10-24-2019, 05:36 AM   #19
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Shouldn’t be redguard over any mud on the shower floor, that’s the purpose of the hot mop. If there is it can be cup wheeled/scraped down to the porous deck mud.

Those can still be filled in, even with thinset at this point. Not a big deal considering your tile size IMO, mute point actually. With larger tile the mud work doesn’t have to be so pur’tey. Doesn’t mean skip standard procedure though, still gotta uphold the name of mud man.
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Unread 10-24-2019, 05:51 AM   #20
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Yeah, I don't know what his hang up is with the float sticks. Now, mud won't want to bond well to the Redgard unless he slaps a little thinset in the void first. I'd probably just fill it with thinset at this point. Some guys make the job harder than it has to be.

I like having one pan and trusting it. If the hot mop is done correctly, why add the Redgard if there's no way to get a positive seal at the drain? But, we are seeing a lot of installers thinking it's a good idea. Either I'm missing something or they aren't thinking it thru. All he can do now is to tile over it or try to peel it up. Ask him where the water will go if your drain gets slightly clogged after a few years from soap and hair. It will back up into the shower but it will also back up thru the weep holes into your mud bed. I hope he didn't use the same wall mud for the shower floor.
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Unread 10-25-2019, 07:44 AM   #21
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@cali and Davy

so does the redguard need to be scraped off the shower floors? If it is not scrapped from the shower floors what will happen?

I dont quite understand the ramifications of having the redguard over the shower floor (sorry im new to this). I thought it would be good to have two protective layers. By having the redguard what specifically happens in this scenario?

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Unread 10-25-2019, 07:46 AM   #22
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@davy,

I think he did use the same mud bed as the walls for the floors. Is that an issue? also how can I tell that he didnt block the weep holes?


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Unread 10-25-2019, 06:30 PM   #23
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Mark, the traditional pan liner and mud bed is a water-in, water-out type system. Water will get thru the floor tile and ends up in the mud bed. If the correct dry pack mud bed was used along with a preslope under the pan liner, the water will make it's way to the weep holes in the drain. If installed correctly, this system works fine.

I don't have proof that painting Redgard over the mud bed will cause problems. I just don't see the need for it. In this case, more is not better in my opinion.

Wall mud is made with more cement than dry pack and also has lime included. Wall mud is harder and less porous than dry pack so water won't easily travel thru it like it does with dry pack. Some installers use sand mix for dry pack. Sand mix is about 3 parts sand to 1 part Portland cement. Good dry pack is around 5 to 1.
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Unread 10-25-2019, 08:29 PM   #24
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Davy,

I spoke to custom building supply. They actually said its no prob to have both hot mop and redguard on top of floor mud (although its redundant). However they recommended that we remove at least an inch around drain so that water doesnt pool on top of redguard and the water can drain into mud and then exit through weep holes.

Do you think this sounds like a good plan? Also if they used same mud for walls and floor, will water have a difficult time draining into mud and exiting out weep holes? Finally is there a way I can test to make sure they didnt clog weep holes?

Guy at custom building supply recommended that we open mud up to weep holes to check, but im scared something might go bad by doing this.

Thanks
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Unread 10-29-2019, 10:16 PM   #25
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Hey all,

Below is a pic of my shower drain. The shower was hot mopped. The circled area in the picture is hard and irregular. Feels almost like melted plastic. Could this be the hot mop? Also if I put my finger in that area there is a black grease. Is that normal?
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Unread 12-07-2019, 09:52 AM   #26
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So shower is about 100 inches wide and we would like to make it completely frameless.

The idea is to have two fixed panels and a shower door in the middle. The panels would be about 35 inches each and the door would be 30 inches wide. Is there a way to do this without a shower header?

If not, can anyone recommend the thinnest or most visibly appealing shower header?

THanks
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Unread 12-07-2019, 05:23 PM   #27
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Mark, you really need to ask your shower door man. I believe you'll need a piece of metal going across the top from one end to the other. Just make sure he doesn't plan to drill into your curb. If he's planning to do that, find another door company.

Looks like we missed your question in your previous post. The hot mop pan consists of tar so maybe that's what you're calling grease.

You would need to remove some tiles and mud from around the drain to check the weep holes. You would then have to patch it back in. I've done this before without a problem but care must be taken not to knock a hole in the pan liner/hot mop. I guess it could always be patched if you did damage it.
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Unread 12-07-2019, 06:35 PM   #28
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It's hard to tell from your picture, but it looks like they didn't make any provisions to keep the weep holes clear. That can allow moisture to end up pooling inside of the mud bed. As was mentioned earlier, a mud bed is designed to have moisture flushing through it. Not at a huge volume, but fairly constantly, and the weep holes are critical to that function.
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Unread 12-08-2019, 09:01 PM   #29
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If we tiled the shower floor already, do I need to rip this out and check the weep holes then?
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Unread 12-09-2019, 06:57 AM   #30
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If it's already tiled, I'd leave it. There's been a lot of showers tiled without weep hole protection that hasn't caused problems. Do you have a picture of the shower drain/floor before it was mudded?
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