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Unread 11-22-2019, 08:09 PM   #46
Davy
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I can't find that picture anymore, CX. It's a lattice stick about 12 inches long with a notch cut in it the tile thickness plus 1/16. Ride the notched part on the drain grate as you cut the mud and it'll be about right.

I don't like to mud to the top of the grate and then back the drain out the tile thickness. When the grate is backed out, it takes away the mud support from under the grate. That usually lets the grate wobble within the threads and will let the grout break out. I know this because I used to do it this way.
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Unread 11-23-2019, 01:45 PM   #47
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Pan poured! I think it came out much better than the pre slope. I definitely had the preslope mortar on the dry side. This was much easier to smooth out the top. Almost forgot the stones for the weep holes! Had to vacuum up a bit of mortar that had spilled onto the flange, but it was all clear when I put the stones on.

Thanks for the tip on the stick. I cut a slit in the end of the screed sticks which I slid over the drain edge then used that to level the pan. Took me an hour and a half, but I have a good slope and no hills.

Questions:

1) Do I wait until it is completely dry before doing the curb??? I hope so, because I'm not sure I can spend any more time on my hands and knees today....

2) Also, because I used Hardiebacker I haven't yet put the final pieces in. I'm thinking I hang those after mudding the curb and leave 1/8" between the end of them and the top of the pan mortar - yes???

3) Then tape and mortar the seams and Redguard all of the walls and I'm ready to tile, yes?
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Unread 11-29-2019, 05:42 PM   #48
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Curb done! Moving ahead with the rest of the hardier-backer installation after curb cures.

Question: do you recommend doing the wall or floor tiles first? (pebbles are just placed, not set yet).
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Unread 11-29-2019, 07:01 PM   #49
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You can do it either way. If you do the floor first, protect it well while tiling the walls.

I tile and grout my walls before I mud and tile the floor but there are no rules.

Did you remove the pebbles from the netting?
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Unread 11-29-2019, 07:21 PM   #50
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Thanks Davy!

Some pebbles are still on the mesh, others are loose. Do you have a recommendation? Seems like it'll take forever if every single one is loose.....
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Unread 11-29-2019, 07:49 PM   #51
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To avoid sheet lines after grouting we always remove the pebbles from the mesh. Yes it takes a while but gives far better end results
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Unread 11-29-2019, 08:12 PM   #52
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Yep, what Paul said.
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Unread 11-29-2019, 08:14 PM   #53
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Yeah, and Davy likes it on accounta I see he makes Little Davy do his.
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Unread 11-29-2019, 08:15 PM   #54
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Here's the finish pic, big difference. CX is right.
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Unread 11-30-2019, 07:27 AM   #55
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Do you guys remove all the pebbles from the sheets, or only those around the perimeter?
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Unread 11-30-2019, 01:36 PM   #56
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I remove all the pebbles but could probably get by with just adding some around the perimeter of each sheet.
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Unread 12-01-2019, 12:33 PM   #57
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Okay, so I made a major mess of the curb. The threshold that I had cut out of quartz is 5.5" wide. The curb was a bit fat to allow the tile to be set fully underneath the threshold on both sides so I ground down the curb a bit and.... yup, I went a bit to far in one spot and exposed the metal lath.

Can I patch it? If so, with what? Or do I need to take it all off - and if so, how do I do that without damaging the liner? Can I patch the mortar with more mortar since it hasn't fully cured yet?

Woefully embarrassed over such a stupid mistake.

Thanks
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Unread 12-01-2019, 04:28 PM   #58
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It all depends how thick of a patch you need. If it just a small spot, say less than 1/4 inch deep, use thinset. If it's deeper than that then use a thin layer of thinset and add more mud while the thinset is wet.
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Unread 12-01-2019, 07:27 PM   #59
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Okay, it's just a small patch. I'll handle it with thinset. Thanks!
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Unread 12-03-2019, 08:19 AM   #60
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Hanging rest of hardie backer today. Their site says to leave 1/4" at the bottom and I know not to screw it in past the height of the liner. I'm going to do the walls first and then the floor. I also know to caulk the gap between the hardie backer and the mortar.

Question on order of tile/grout/caulk and where all the edges meet up. Seems like there are two ways to do this:
(HB= Hardie; th = thinset; G=grout)

1:
|HB|th|tile
|HB|--G------pebbles----------------------------------
1/4"caulk th ----------------------------------------
mortar--------------------------------------------------

OR:
2:
|HB|th|tile
|HB| G pebbles----------------------------------
1/4"caulk G th ----------------------------------------
mortar--------------------------------------------------


The drawings may not be exactly right, but the main question is, is the bottom of the wall tile flush with the bottom of the pebbles (first photo - wall is the white subway) or do the pebbles sit under the last row of wall tiles (second photo) ?

In the two other showers in our house one is done above and the other is flush.

Is one more forgiving?

Thanks!
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