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Unread 10-24-2006, 01:31 AM   #1
Deckert
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Kirkland, WA
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Question Deckerts small bath remodel

First off, wanted to give some thanks for the great info here. I just finished the curb to my shower using the walkthrough here, and it turned out great. Just really nice and easy. Also, the fella at Lowe's tried to sell me some Type-S mortar to use for the drypack, but I already read different here and foiled his evil plan

As far as my project: It is a walk in shower, 3'x6'. The floor has been hotmopped, but has not been drypacked yet.

I have been planning on floating the walls, and have the paper and wire up and in place. But after looking at it, I wont be able to do a very thick float without bringing my finished wall out farther than it should for the shower valve. My question is this: How thin is too thin for a float? And at what point should i forget floating it and just use 1/2" cement board?

If I do decide to use cement board, do I have to take down the wire and paper that is up, or can I put the cement board over the wire? Maybe put some thinset on the back of the cement board so that will grab the wire, in addition to screwing the cement board into the studs ?

Its makin my brain ache, and need some help before I get in trouble.

Last edited by Deckert; 10-24-2006 at 09:06 AM.
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Unread 10-24-2006, 09:03 AM   #2
Deckert
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As long as we're on the topic, what are the overall pros/cons of using cement board versus floating the walls in a shower? This is something I'd like to continue doing, and would like to get as much information as I can on the 2 styles.
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Unread 10-24-2006, 06:37 PM   #3
John Bridge
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I would move the valve out further if that's what it takes. Wouldn't let a li'l ol' shower valve keep me from doing a mud job.

Mud is superior, but backer board works.
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Unread 10-25-2006, 08:59 PM   #4
Deckert
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Thanks for the reply John, first name here is Brannigan.

Am going ahead with the float as planned. Was able to undo the pipe clamps, and push the valve out a bit (another 1/2" ish) and now feel more comfortable about my spacing.

After moving the valve, I got my scratch coat on today, and have a couple questions about the smooth coat.

1. How soon till I can smooth coat it? Can wait until Friday if needed, but wouldn't mind getting it done Thursday. Is one day too soon?

2. Should I use the same mortar I used on the scratch coat for the smooth coat, or should I add some acrylic to it?

This is turning out to be a really enjoyabe project, and I appreciate all the info here.
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Unread 07-09-2007, 04:11 PM   #5
John Corley
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Do you still need info B?
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Unread 07-09-2007, 09:53 PM   #6
Deckert
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Thanks for following up John. Fortunately, this one is finished and it came out great. Was a good experience all around, and I've done several projects for these customers since then.

Only thing I wish I would have done was to have a helper on the days I floated the walls. Doing it alone was a lot more challenging than I like my days to be
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