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Unread 10-11-2013, 04:29 PM   #1
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Mechanic trying to tile over OSB

Hi there in tile land. I am an auto mechanic that is trying to tile his foyer entry. I have been reading up an aweful lot on doing this floor and i am getting confused.
What i have 2x12 joists 16" center 3/4 ply on joists and 3/4 osb on top of that. I ripped out lenolium that had a hardwood inlay for a step down into living room hence the 3/4 osb. Do i have enough floor to use backer board on top of osb? Should the osb come out? Orc an i tile over the osb?
I have aquired l 4 pails of kerapoxy as my mortar. Also bought schutler reno u edging for step down to get a clean line to living room

the house was built in 1965 and had lenolium lawand and then lenolium befor i got down to osb. To get up the fiber (asbestos) backing i used an iron and a spray bottle with water and a scraper. While spraying and ironing, lol, i noticed that nothing was happening to the osb there was no swelling or deterioration of osb at all. Even when scraping it didnt even gouge a little. I guess im looking to see if it would be ok to just tile over the osb since i think i have enough floor and water didnt penatrate osb surface.
Any info would be greatly appriciated.
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Unread 10-11-2013, 04:39 PM   #2
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Welcome, cheap. Please change that permanent signature line to a first name for us to use.

Can't tell anything about your joist structure without we know what kind and grade of wood you have and the unsupported span.

If both your subfloor layers are properly installed and in good condition, I see no reason you can't install a CBU and tile over what you've got.

I don't understand the step-down part of the description, but perhaps it has nothing at all to do with the tile installation?

My opinion; worth price charged.

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Unread 10-12-2013, 12:33 PM   #3
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Themy living room is down 2 stairs from the foyer i am not using any bull nose or any kind of round over edging just the schuler reno u which is just an aluminum edging on a 45. Just trying to get a nice clean/sharp edge for the step. Open floor plan to living room 14 ft long. Do you think that will work?
As for the un supported span it is 10 ft. I will snap a pic and upload.
Also about the kerapoxy. Any thoughts? Have you ever worked with it? My girls x is a general contacter and he says that he has never heard of it.
Oh and i am changing to my real name,lol
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Unread 10-12-2013, 03:15 PM   #4
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If you had to buy the Kerapoxy, it is a bit overkill! The stuff is expensive. I did not check to see what the working time is, but epoxy tends to be workable, then like a switch, becomes unworkable. I'm assuming (may not be correct) that it is a two-part epoxy, and mixing it properly, or using less than a full container can be problematic. For the average DIY'er, you may not be able to use a full container before it starts to set up. A good dry cement based thinset you mix with water or an admix may save some money and be easier to work with. If it was free, I'd consider it, but it may be not worth it even then! IT certainly has its place, but I'm not sure this is one of them unless you're dealing with say a green marble or some other moisture sensitive stone that might curl or warp with a traditional thinset.

With cbu, you must embed it in thinset, and that stuff may not meet the requirements for cbu...on top of it, probably okay, but not underneath it. Even though you use thinset underneath, it still essentially acts like a floating floor...epoxy won't allow that.
Jim DeBruycker
Not a pro, multiple Schluter Workshops (Schluterville and 2013 and 2014 at Schluter Headquarters), Mapei Training 2014, Laticrete Workshop 2014, Custom Building Products Workshop 2015, and Longtime Forum Participant.
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Unread 10-12-2013, 07:05 PM   #5
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Yeah the only reason im using the kerapoxy is that it was free! Was looking at prices online and its like $145 a 2 gal pail i got 4 pails for nothing and im only doing a 100 sqft foyer if i have to waste a little its ok. It is a 2 part mix it came with a bottle of hardener in the pail. Pre measured of coarse. Printed instructions online. It says this stuff is industrial grade and for uses in high traffic applications like airports, shopping malls, and subways. I figured it would be ok for my little foyer·······lol
that was a concern of mine is working time before this stuff is solid.
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Unread 10-12-2013, 10:37 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by jeff
I guess im looking to see if it would be ok to just tile over the osb
Kerapoxy should not be used as a mortar over osb, so either remove osb or cover with a backer or surface applied membrane.

Overall, I have some reservations about using Kerapoxy for this project. See Jim's post above.
Facilities Manager, TPC Snoqualmie Ridge
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Unread 10-12-2013, 11:31 PM   #7
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I use kerapoxy as a grout all the time, only use it for setting when I do small pebbles in a shower pan.
Why not use thinset and just grout with the kerapoxy? You get about an hour of working time. Can still make small touchups for quite a while after that, but not likely to be able to spread it anymore
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