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Unread 11-12-2006, 07:01 PM   #31
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Great job, Dan.
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Unread 11-13-2006, 08:06 AM   #32
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Many thanks CX, it's been a long, tough, and sometimes bloody road!

Dan
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Unread 11-13-2006, 08:10 AM   #33
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My friend RobZ tells me you navigated it well, though.

Feels good to finish one of those, eh? 'Specially for yourownself.
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Unread 11-13-2006, 08:32 AM   #34
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No doubt about that CX, a fantastic feeling of accomplishment. As usual, as I gaze upon the finished product, I see things that I could have, and perhaps should have, done differently but I got the overall look I was after.

I've had the pleasure of meeting Mr. Z - him is good folk.

Dan
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Unread 11-13-2006, 06:15 PM   #35
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Fantastic, Dan.
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Unread 11-13-2006, 08:45 PM   #36
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Many thanks John. The many resources that are the "John Bridge Ceramic Tile Forums" get a lot of the credit, for surely I'd still be working on it otherwise.

Dan
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Unread 11-13-2006, 08:52 PM   #37
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Everyone should know that Dan went out of his way to help me resolve a particularly difficult problem that had been dragging on for months with one of my vendors. Thanks, Dan.
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Unread 11-13-2006, 11:26 PM   #38
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Excellent, Dan. Looks really good.

ManLand bathroom, eh? You gotta sign onna door like:
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Unread 11-14-2006, 07:43 AM   #39
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T'was the very least I could do Rob, especially since I'm somewhat of a representative of your vendor.

Too funny Bubba - I'd forgotten all about Alfalfa's sign. Of course, I've also forgotten what I had for dinner last night so it's not such a surprise.

Thanks for the kudos - we're pretty pleased with the results.

Dan
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Unread 11-21-2006, 10:14 AM   #40
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Shower glass installation

Dan-
You mentioned that you ordered a door from Wilson Glass. I am attracted to the savings of self-install vis-a-vis pro install.

Question is, how hard was it for you to install? Was the door wicked heavy? Did you have a problem squaring/plumbing your door? Drilling for supports? Any thing to be wary of?
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Unread 11-21-2006, 10:55 AM   #41
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Hey Shawn,

After all you've accomplished with your project you can certainly install a glass door.

The Wilson Glass web site is very informative and pretty funny too - they have a good sense of humor. Suggest you visit the site and spend some time reading. You give them your opening dimensions and they tell you how wide the door should be. Height is up to you. Well, up to wherever you want it to be. Wilson provides all the hardware. I ordered longer hinge screws at a slight up-charge.

My door was 72" H X 34" W. Weight is around 80 pounds. As long as you have sufficient support - IE, a stud to screw the hinges to, it'll be fine. I anticipated using a glass door so I framed the opening with double studs. Most important is that your walls are plumb and flat. If they are you are home free.

You will need two people to install it. I employed my 5'3, 112 pound wife. I got some wood shims and adjusted them to give me approx 7/16" for the bottom and then taped them to the curb. I installed the hinges on the door, as well as the handle, had Becky in the shower, and I then lifted the door into the opening and set it on the shims. It is, necessarily, a tight fit so you'll need to get your fingers out of the way and your helper will balance it. Since you won’t be able to grab the sides use something to pry with between the bottom of the door and the curb so you can get it square in the opening – I used a thick wood shim.

Once I had it in position on the curb and the hinges were against the wall, I then inserted wood shims into the left and right sides from the front and back – basically wedging the door into place. Becky kept a grip on the handle while I plumbed it with the level. Once plumb just mark each hole in the hinges. Take a breather – it’s nerve racking. Remove the door the same way it went in.

I used the cheap glass and tile ¼” spade bits from HD. I placed the tip in the center of the hole and drilled a shallow divot at really slow speed to get started – you really, really need the holes centered. If you don’t then the screws will pull the hinge out of alignment when they seat themselves in the hinge. I went through 3 bits even with Becky trying to keep them cool with water. You’ll not have as hard a time with your stone tiles.

Even though I hit the studs I still used the plastic anchors. Don’t worry if you can’t knock them in all the way – just shear them off with a blade. I ran the screws into each hole prior to re-installing the door – just to make it easier. I was the one inside the shower this time. Set the door back in place on the shims, line up at least one hole on the bottom, run a screw almost all the way in, line up one top hole and run one in there. Make certain you keep a lot of pressure on your drill/driver – don’t wanna bugger up the screw heads. Set the 2 upper and two lower inside screws then carefully opened the door just enough to get out and then set the other four.

I was spent but man was it worth it. Again, Wilson's site is very informative - check it out and let me know if ya have any questions.

Hope this helps.

Dan
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Unread 11-21-2006, 11:06 AM   #42
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Thanks, Dan. That's much of what I wanted to know. I've replaced interior doors before, and I know how painful it is to get the screws perfectly aligned to the hinges. Almost always easier to buy prehung. Now, too bad they don't make prehung frameless shower doors

I've perused Wilson's site. The thing is, there are no instructions for installing a STEAM shower door. I know the sweeps and tops and bottoms have to be vapor tight, so I don't know how that affects the ease-of-installation.

Further, my jambs are every so slightly outa plumb - and already tiled!!! How does THAT affect installation? I anticipate that the hinges keep the door plumb, and the sweeps hide the slightly uneven diff between the jambs, but can't find confirmation of that anywhere.

Also, my curb is kerdi. You don't have to make any penetrations to that, right?
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Unread 11-21-2006, 11:38 AM   #43
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You may want to call them Shawn.

You may be able to use sweeps around the perimeter of the door to seal it but doing so may change the usual clearences they specify. My door fits so close that a sweep at the bottom is the only one necessary.

No, there are no penitrations in the curb at all. The door hinges from the jamb.

As far as your jambs being out of plumb - this may be an issue. The door has to be cut square. The hinge pins must be aligned or the hinges will bind - not what you want with a glass door. The hinges mount to the door in rubber gaskets so the hinges MAY tollerate a miniscule amount of mis-alignment but not much. There may be some hard plastic shims available to go between the wall and the hinge to get the pins aligned - depends on how far out of plumb you are. Best is to take careful measurements, draw a picture with the measurements, and send to Wilson to see if you can come up with a solution.

Dan
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