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Unread 02-24-2020, 11:37 PM   #76
KarenA01
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Having to go to a 30 inch tub really bothered me and made me think more about layout. We really can't lose much closet space as the house does not have enough... but it does not need to be WHERE it is now... and there is nothing preventing a closet from being inside a bathroom...

So I came up with the layout below putting a closet with sliding doors in teh bathroom...

While things are still tighter than ideal, the passage way is a much more reasonable size.

The new closet , while a smaller is still a decent size... Much bigger than any linen closet would need to be...

If anyone sees any issues with it please let me know... The biggest potential one I can think of is that the tub drain moves about 8-9 inches father from the main sewer line exit it is connected to... I know there are limits to how far the distance can be, but I don't know what they are.

That existing closet in back of the tub is a utility closet that has the vacuum, brooms and a lot of other stuff needed often. Some of that stuff (like the vacuum cleaner and a number of other items) should not be in the bathroom but need ti be easily accessible.

But if we do that, there is a smaller linen closer (32"WX15"D) next to the other side of the bathroom that would no longer need to be used for linens...

The back of that closet is the side wall of a fairly large bedroom closet... If we move the existing linen closet back wall out by a foot, stealing the space from that bedroom closet, there would be a place for everything and it could all work!

Of course this probably would add a LOT to the cost of the renovation <sigh>

Any comments on this layout would be welcome.

- Karen
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Unread 02-25-2020, 07:40 AM   #77
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Looks and sounds like a workable solution to me, Karen.

It appears the dimensions you're using for the tub are the finished size; so just keep in mind you need to account for the rough opening sizes; standard 5' long tubs will need a 60" RO. Be certain to actually measure the tub/check the instructions before the framing begins.

You've allotted 7" for the plumbing wall, any particular reason? You could pick up some precious inches for the closet if you framed that plumbing wall with 2X4's instead, unless you need the width of the wall so that your closet ends up a certain size to accommodate a particular sliding door size.

And it still looks to me that you could pick up some more precious inches for the vanity if you decreased the size of the entry door. increased counter top space is always welcome, though in your case symmetry would be lost, but sometimes form needs to follow function.
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Unread 02-25-2020, 08:33 AM   #78
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that vanity is only 19in deep. I's make it 21 and don't forget about the counter overhang on all sides.
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Unread 02-25-2020, 09:00 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan
You've allotted 7" for the plumbing wall, any particular reason?
I saw that, and thought it might be because the water lines were on the far right side of that wall, closest to the proposed location of the new closet.

If that's the case, they could be moved, but would it be worth it to gain 2-3" in the closet?

Or it's something completely different and I don't know what I'm talking about.
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Unread 02-25-2020, 09:08 AM   #80
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We commonly frame a 2x6 wall to better accommodate the 2" vent pipe, but that's generally a wall next to the WC. It's nice to have a thicker wall for other drain and vent plumbing, too, though. As Kevin suggested, I wouldn't usually sacrifice that for a gain of a couple inches of closet space.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 02-25-2020, 09:32 AM   #81
KarenA01
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Dan wrote:

Quote:
It appears the dimensions you're using for the tub are the finished size; so just keep in mind you need to account for the rough opening sizes;
I think I am. I based it on the measurements from the wall of the current 60" X 32" tub.


Quote:
You've allotted 7" for the plumbing wall, any particular reason?
I read that plumbing walls should be 2X6 construction. That and the potential extra thickness for the waterproofing + tile over just drywall.

If it turns out 2X4 construction is OK that would be great but in deciding on the layout I don't want to be over optimistic on space.

Quote:
And it still looks to me that you could pick up some more precious inches for the vanity if you decreased the size of the entry door.
I will consider that... The actual opening (minus the trim) for the door is 29".

One of the justification in my mind for the extra cost of this layout is this it would make getting around easier.

We are getting older (mid 60's now). While this bathroom will never be wheelchair accessible, we want it to be more usable if we ever need walkers.

While I do want more counter space (would love to go with a 42" vanity instead of 36"), long term accessibility is more important. That makes hesitant me about making the door smaller..But I will think about it..

The space for the toilet between the vanity and the wall is SLIGHTLY larger than the minimum required, so the vanity could be moved 2 inches closer to the toilet. Then the other side would only be 4" closer to the door... But I need to think about how would work out.

Bathrooms are complicated!

Mike, while I thought about going to a 21" deep vanity, accessibility is why I stayed with an 18" so far.

Thank for the feedback
-Karen
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Unread 02-25-2020, 09:56 AM   #82
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Kevin,
That wall will have all the tub/shower plumbing in it so the tub spout, and shower head would be on it and all the pipes and valving would be inside it.

CX wrote:

Quote:
We commonly frame a 2x6 wall to better accommodate the 2" vent pipe, but that's generally a wall next to the WC. It's nice to have a thicker wall for other drain and vent plumbing, too, though. As Kevin suggested, I wouldn't usually sacrifice that for a gain of a couple inches of closet space.
Let me ask about that... Right now there is no vent from the tub drain area as far as I can see... Does the need for a vent depend on the length of the drain pipe run to the vent?

As I said the drain would need to move about 8-10 inches toward the door. That drain pipe now runs to about to about the corner behind the toilet where it joins the main waste pipe. (I can see this in the basement).

I guess that means if the longer distance makes enough difference, another vent would need to be installed though the roof?

One more question to anyone.. Should the plumbing wall extend 2-3" beyond the tub? For all the pictures of alcove tubs I've seen, that seems to be the case.

Thanks all for your feedback. It is very appreciated.

-Karen
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Unread 02-25-2020, 04:05 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Karen
Does the need for a vent depend on the length of the drain pipe run to the vent?
No, the need for a vent exists because you have a drain. The permissible length of the drain line to the vent is usually dependent upon the size of your drain line and your plumbing code.

The need for an additional roof penetration is something I've argued many times with various code compliance inspectors. Sometimes I've prevailed, other times not. I generally favor connecting vents in a larger (usually 4") manifold in the attic space when necessary, with only one, or a maximum of two, roof penetrations, none of which are visible at the front elevation. I really dislike poking unnecessary holes in my roofs.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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