Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Unread 02-10-2020, 12:37 PM   #1
cai24
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 15
Installing Glass Subway Tile Backsplash - Have Many Questions

I recently remodeled my kitchen and am finally at the point where I'm ready to install backsplash. I had originally planned to hire someone to install it, but now I'm wondering if I should attempt this myself. I'm fairly handy, but I've only done a small tile project once. I've never done a backsplash.

We're planning to use 3x6" glass subway tiles. I believe the area is approximately 55 sq ft. That seems larger than I envisioned, but we want to do all of the area behind the range (up to the ceiling, behind the vent hood).

1. We're planning to order the tiles from Wayfair. Are these okay from a quality standpoint?
https://www.wayfair.com/home-improve...-sost1463.html

2. I have two spots where there would be an exposed edge. It does not appear that they make a bullnose for the tile we picked, and we weren't fond of the schluter strip idea. Are there any options?

3. My biggest fear with the project is working with thinset. I know it's supposed to have a peanut butter consistency. I just get nervous with judging batch size, mixing it properly, and not making a complete mess. I've been watching Youtube videos, but I still don't feel comfortable just yet. I will follow the directions closely, but is it at all forgiving if it's not "perfect?"

4. Are the Custom Glass Tile Thinset (Home Depot) or MAPEI Glass Tile Thinset (Lowe's) okay to use? Is one better than the other, or is there something else I should consider.

5. Should I totally eliminate the idea of using a Bondera mat? I like the simplicity of it, but I'm not sure if using one is considered a "hack" job.

6. As for the actual installation, I was planning to go left to right. I'm hoping to work in sections though instead of long rows to the end. I would check the first row with a laser level and align it that way. I should not have a problem, as I was very precise with the cabinets. My dimensions are such that it looks like I will have to do very little cutting at the ends (if any).

7. It seems like the thinset layer should be very thin. Dumb question, but how do I know if I've applied too much?

8. I have a wet saw, and I would buy a glass cutting blade. It's one of the cheap skil saws, so I'm hoping it would be sufficient for making clean cuts. If there is something different that would be better, I will gladly buy it. I've read that snap cutters can sometimes be tricky with glass. I've also heard that wet saws don't make clean cuts in certain cases. I'm not sure what I should be using!

I'm just trying to see if I'm on the right track. I've been watching a lot of Youtube videos, but I know it's very different from actually doing the project yourself. If anyone can give me any suggestions or advice, I would really appreciate it. Thanks!
__________________
Chris
cai24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Unread 02-10-2020, 01:32 PM   #2
jerrymlr1
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Sarasota FL
Posts: 1,209
Hi Chris
1. It's hit or miss. There's a 99.9% chance that it's chinese.. So..... Reviews are good but Wayfair might have somethin to do with that.
2. Schluter edge works. If no cuts at the edge you can see what the bare edge looks like.
3. Get some thinset and practice a bit with it. Trowel it around and get the feel for it. You should get an idea what is too loose and too thick.
4. Both good thinsets for that application.
5. Skip the mat. Cheesy cheesy cheesy way to go.
6. Left to right causes big problems. JK. As long as you have the wall marked out and know where everything is going ahead of installing you should be good.
7. 1/4" x 1/4" trowel should work. Again, practice a bit. It will help.
8. A cheap wetsaw with a decent glass blade will work. Harbor freight and HD have them for $200 or so.

Between videos and a little practice you should have relatively few problems. Just make sure the coverage on the back of the tile is near 100% and there is not a whole lot of thinset oozing out of the joints. Both those thinsets are easy to clean off the tile the next day and both are non-sag mortars making it a lot easier to set the tiles.
__________________
Jerry
jerrymlr1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-10-2020, 01:36 PM   #3
cai24
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 15
Jerry, thanks for your help. Is there a better place to buy tile? I try to avoid products manufactured in China, but when searching, I could not find many glass subway versions that are made in the USA. I will gladly pay more for a US product.
__________________
Chris
cai24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-10-2020, 02:31 PM   #4
jerrymlr1
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Sarasota FL
Posts: 1,209
Quote:
I try to avoid products manufactured in China
Well, good luck with that. I try to do the same but fall short now and then. You could look at Villi tile. I think they are made in the US. My Bisazza rep went to work for them a short while back and then moved on. Some nice tile but may or may not be what you're looking for.
__________________
Jerry
jerrymlr1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-11-2020, 08:42 AM   #5
ss3964spd
Moderator
 
ss3964spd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fairfax, Va
Posts: 2,776
Send a message via Yahoo to ss3964spd
Welcome Chris,

You might also want to give thought to the tile layout. Given that you'll be tiling behind the range/cook top and on up to the ceiling (I did the same) you might want to have the pattern centered in that area. - especially if there are cabinets on both sides of vent hood. Centering there, though, might throw it off elsewhere, so just something you might want to consider as you plan it all out.
__________________
Dan
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If I recall correctly my memory is excellent, but my ability to access it is intermittent.
ss3964spd is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-11-2020, 11:39 AM   #6
Demonic
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Barnstable, MA
Posts: 6
For the exposed edge, you can try turning the tile after cutting it so the cut edge will be into the field and grouted. How well it blends will be dependent on the grout color, how discerning the viewer's eye is, and how rounded the uncut edges are. Also be careful with the glass water slurry from the tile saw - it can be nasty on bare skin.
__________________
Austin

Last edited by Demonic; 02-11-2020 at 01:59 PM.
Demonic is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-11-2020, 01:19 PM   #7
john619
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 178
Oceanside Glass & Tile has some very nice glass tiles available.
__________________
john
john619 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-21-2020, 08:09 AM   #8
cai24
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 15
Glass Subway Tile (3x6) Install Questions

I am installing a glass subway tile (3x6) kitchen backsplash. I got some help previously, but I have a few additional questions:

1. I am not sure what trowel I should use. The instructions seem to indicate a 1/16” square notch, but I was wondering if that’s a misprint. I was thinking about using a 1/4” x 1/4”, but I am not experienced enough to know for sure.

2. The tile I am using has a white paper backing. Do I need to knock down the ridges, or are they fine as is?

3. Do 1/8” or 1/16” grout lines look better, or is it more of a personal preference? I am leaning toward 1/16”.

4. Should I leave expansion space where the tile hits the wall, cabinets, etc? Is a gap the size of the grout line sufficient?

5. Is there any trick for outside corners? I have one in my kitchen. It seems like if I don’t extend the tiles off the wall slightly, there will be a large silicone gap there, but I may not be envisioning it correctly.

6. Will I have problems with the paper backing when using the wet saw? Should I cut face up or down?

I know I have a lot of questions, so I apologize in advance. I appreciate any help.
__________________
Chris
cai24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-21-2020, 08:33 AM   #9
ss3964spd
Moderator
 
ss3964spd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fairfax, Va
Posts: 2,776
Send a message via Yahoo to ss3964spd
Welcome back Chris

1. I am not sure what trowel I should use. The instructions seem to indicate a 1/16” square notch, but I was wondering if that’s a misprint. I was thinking about using a 1/4” x 1/4”, but I am not experienced enough to know for sure.

How thick are the tiles? Regardless, 1/16th isn't much, you certain the instructions didn't specify 3/16th?

2. The tile I am using has a white paper backing. Do I need to knock down the ridges, or are they fine as is?

Not sure I understand; is the paper backing holding several tiles together, or is it there for some other reason?

3. Do 1/8” or 1/16” grout lines look better, or is it more of a personal preference? I am leaning toward 1/16”.

Completely up to you. Personally I prefer narrower grout lines and, given the size of your tiles, I think a 1/16th joint would look better.

4. Should I leave expansion space where the tile hits the wall, cabinets, etc? Is a gap the size of the grout line sufficient?

Yes, Yes, and Yes. Don't forget the same spacing at the counter tops.

5. Is there any trick for outside corners? I have one in my kitchen. It seems like if I don’t extend the tiles off the wall slightly, there will be a large silicone gap there, but I may not be envisioning it correctly.

A picture of that corner would help.
__________________
Dan
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If I recall correctly my memory is excellent, but my ability to access it is intermittent.
ss3964spd is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-21-2020, 09:45 AM   #10
cai24
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 15
Thanks for the reply!

1. How thick are the tiles? Regardless, 1/16th isn't much, you certain the instructions didn't specify 3/16th? - The tiles are .31" thick (8 mm). The instructions do say a 1/16" trowel. I'm wondering if it's either a misprint or the wrong directions. There's no identifying information on them to link them to the tile that I bought. What would be best to use?

2. They are individual subway tiles, and they all have a white paper coating on the back of them. I guess it's to help with the color and keep the thinset from showing through. I noticed most in the store had this.

5. I don't have a more recent picture, but this is the corner I'm talking about. I'm confused about how the tiles are positioned when navigating the corner. If I stop at the end of the wall and then start again around the corner, will that leave a large silicone gap? How is this generally done?
https://i.postimg.cc/3x19rTr4/IMG-5763.jpg
__________________
Chris
cai24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-21-2020, 06:11 PM   #11
Davy
Moderator -- Mud Man
 
Davy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Princeton,Tx.- Dallas area
Posts: 32,223
How about a picture of the tiles that shows the paper.
__________________
Davy

www.davystephenstile.com
Davy is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-21-2020, 06:23 PM   #12
cai24
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 15
Pictures of the tile are attached. The front looks a bit weird, because there is a plastic wrap over it.
Attached Images
  
__________________
Chris
cai24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-22-2020, 07:33 AM   #13
ss3964spd
Moderator
 
ss3964spd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fairfax, Va
Posts: 2,776
Send a message via Yahoo to ss3964spd
Chris, you can attach a picture stored on your PC using the paper clip icon or the "manage attachments" box below. That link you provided drove my PC out of its mind.

I'm perplexed by the paper. It seem that as soon as the moisture from the mortar hits it the paper might pucker or the adhesive might dissolve. Does the paper peel off easily? Might need to reach out to the place you bought it, even better the manufacturer, and see what they have to say.

Wrapping the tile around that corner is going to be a challenge. You could miter the ends of the tile at the corner but doing so will leave very sharp edges, easily damaged. Only other thing that comes to mind is using an edging specifically designed for that situation. Schluter makes a variety, in metal and plastic, and different colors.
__________________
Dan
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If I recall correctly my memory is excellent, but my ability to access it is intermittent.
ss3964spd is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-22-2020, 09:57 AM   #14
Davy
Moderator -- Mud Man
 
Davy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Princeton,Tx.- Dallas area
Posts: 32,223
Being glass tiles, is it possible that the back is painted instead of covered with paper?

You might be able to use the edge of the tiles along that edge. Hold one up there to see how it looks.
__________________
Davy

www.davystephenstile.com
Davy is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-29-2020, 09:07 AM   #15
cai24
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 15
Question about Drill for Mixing Thinset

I am getting ready to do my first tiling project (kitchen backsplash). I don't have a drill suitable for mixing thinset, so I bought a DeWalt DW235G. It was pretty reasonable (around $100), but I don't think it's actually intended for heavy mixing. It also doesn't have the ability to set the RPMs, so I'm afraid I may overmix. I saw that Home Depot carries a Ridgid Paddle Mixer for $139, and I'm wondering if I should get this instead. Amazon carries something similar by VonHaus. I've never heard of this brand, but it's about half the cost of the Ridgid. I normally try to buy good, US-made tools when possible. This is something that I probably won't use all that much. I would like to do a bathroom remodel when the kitchen is done, so it won't be a total waste. I just wanted to see if anyone had any input or experience with any of these. I'm open to other options too! Thanks in advance for any ideas.

DeWalt DW235G (what I bought): https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-7...235G/100050769

Ridgid Paddle-Mixer: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-S...-302856668-_-N

VonHaus Mud Mixer: https://www.amazon.com/VonHaus-Handl...ustomerReviews
__________________
Chris
cai24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Glass Subway Tile Backsplash Installation SLMFD44 Tile Forum/Advice Board 28 12-07-2019 04:56 AM
Glass subway tile installation questions JohnRizzo17 Tile Forum/Advice Board 17 05-12-2019 06:02 AM
Subway tile backsplash questions JeanneMarie Tile Forum/Advice Board 2 06-14-2016 07:57 PM
Glass subway backsplash questions please lucas_tx Tile Forum/Advice Board 20 10-30-2013 08:38 PM
Glass 3 x 6 subway tile installation questions txmummy Tile Forum/Advice Board 7 02-22-2008 02:23 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:30 AM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2018 John Bridge & Associates, LLC