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Unread 02-19-2020, 07:56 AM   #61
vbtalent
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I overlooked that CX, thanks.

Last question I hope... grout.

Is the preference for floors to go with sanded grout when laying LFT's?

Any particular brands that are recommended? Does this meet with satisfaction??? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-B...4625/205939381

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Unread 02-19-2020, 08:15 AM   #62
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Type of grout has nothing at all to do with tile size, VB. For cementitious grouts, unsanded can be used in grout joints up to 1/8th of an inch and sanded can be used in joints 1/8th of an inch and larger, up to the manufacturer's specified maximum. Other types of grout follow manufacturers' instructions. I use a sanded grout unless the joint is just too small to force it into.

The Polyblend grout you link has been used in thousands of acres of tile over the decades, but is not considered an advanced product. Meets the requirements of ANSI A118.6. Lotsa choices out there. You might look into Prism grout from the same manufacturer if that's where you shop, or their Fusion Pro single component stuff.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 02-20-2020, 05:53 AM   #63
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Thanks for the suggestions.

I'm also good with a Lowes product.. MAPEI...what's your take on that manufacturer?? https://www.lowes.com/pd/MAPEI-Ultra...out/1000057513

What's your feeling about white grout and its ability to stay white?

What's your feeling about additives, does it need any or use it as it's delivered?
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Unread 02-20-2020, 06:46 AM   #64
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I dunno, VB, even before reading the thread linked below I'd be super hesitant on using white grout for any area that is going to see any amount of foot traffic - bare or not, or constant water/shampoo/soap exposure.

https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin...d.php?t=128761
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Unread 02-20-2020, 07:17 AM   #65
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Thanks for the link.

We have some white grout in another section of the house and it has greyed over time with foot traffic. I was hoping they had made some progress on keeping it white with some of the newer grouts out there, seems they haven't.

What's the thought on using MAPEI products? I assume mixing grout with different thin sets doesn't create issues?

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Unread 02-20-2020, 07:30 AM   #66
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Keeping a pourous, cement based grout white seems an impossible task. Just too much stuff gets ground into it over time.

I've only used 1 Mapei product, only because HD is much closer to me than is Lowes, but everything I've read here suggests their products are just fine, and generally on par with Custom's (HD) products.
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Unread 02-25-2020, 04:40 AM   #67
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After removing the carpet from one of the rooms the floor already has some plywood underneath it and its in very good shape can I lay Ditra right on top of it, seems like unnecessary work to remove it to reinstall more sub-flooring.
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Unread 02-25-2020, 08:59 AM   #68
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Are you saying there is already a 2nd layer of plywood on toppa the first? If yes -
  1. How thick is the 1st layer
  2. How thick is the 2nd layer
  3. Is the 2nd layer laid with its long edges perpendicular to the joists
  4. How was the 2nd layer fastened down?
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Unread 02-25-2020, 07:09 PM   #69
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Quote:
How thick is the 1st layer
How thick is the 2nd layer
Is the 2nd layer laid with its long edges perpendicular to the joists
How was the 2nd layer fastened down?
1 - 3/4"
2 - 1/4"
3 - Yes
4 - Staples, but it can be screwed down

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Unread 02-25-2020, 08:55 PM   #70
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VB, while I wouldn't tile over that for a customer, it's entirely up to you what you wanna do with it.

The 1/4" plywood, while at least not of the Lauan type, isn't considered a structural layer by the ceramic tile industry. Yours looks to be fairly flat (difficult to tell in an online photo) and if it's well fastened and you wanna take a chance on it, that's entirely up to you.

Schluter is not likely to be thrilled about you bonding their Ditra to it, but they do sanction nominal 3/8ths" plywood, which is not a hellofa lot better to my thinking. I'd be more comfortable if you were using a CBU instead, but, again, entirely up to you.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 02-26-2020, 04:33 PM   #71
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Thanks for the input. The floor is very flat and very sound so I'm contemplating it, am I more concerned about the flatness or the adhesion of the thinset to the ply and the Ditra??

I'm unfamiliar with CBU???

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Unread 02-26-2020, 04:49 PM   #72
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There is no problem bonding to plywood with thinset mortar so long as the mortar meets the requirements of ANSI A118.11.

CBU stands for Cementitious Backer Unit and generally means products such as Wonderboard, Durock, Hardiebacker and similar. They are attached to the floor over a bed of thinset mortar using mechanical fasteners.
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Unread 02-27-2020, 04:49 AM   #73
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OK, I understand CBU then.

So then I'm at a crossroads... I have DITRA but I'm more comfortable with a backer board material (CBU).

Given my circumstances which would you think would give me the best chance for success, a cement type product or HardieBoard? and then again the discussion about thickness comes to the forefront for me, the thicker the better I understand but my limit is probably 1/4" screwed ever 6" - 10".

So given that point its Schluter or hadieboard??

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Unread 02-27-2020, 07:23 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VB
which would you think would give me the best chance for success
Remove the 1/4 ply. If the 3/4" ply is not installed with screws, screw it down. Install 1/2" BC exposure 1 ply with the long edges perp to the joists, ensuring none of the seams line up with the 3/4" ply seams. Check entire floor for flatness with a long straight edge. If sufficiently flat install your Ditra with the recommended thinset mortar.

You asked.
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Unread 02-27-2020, 11:49 AM   #75
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In your current installation the only substrate I would try would be the properly installed CBU and not any type of membrane.

Dan's recommendation is the safest choice.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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