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Unread 12-14-2019, 05:46 PM   #46
jadnashua
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I think I may have linked this earlier, but this is maybe your most reliable way to keep weep holes open. https://noblecompany.com/products/po...weep-protector

One guy suggested putting some cotton string in the weep hole slots that will act like a wick and extending them out further into the mudbed. Haven't tried that, as I prefer a bonded sheet membrane that doesn't use weep holes, at least in the conventional sense, since there's no deck mud for moisture to weep through.
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Unread 12-15-2019, 10:31 AM   #47
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So these things are weep holes too. I would cut the shower liner back to the size of the drain hole. If you do that, then the weep holes that I've pointed to should be clear. If the liner extends past the drain hole then it can block them.

And just to be clear, the sealant should go underneath the liner around the top of the drain body and not on top of the liner. The sealant could cause the liner to fill the weep channel when the clamping ring is tightened on so it's a good idea to tighten it and then pull it off to check.

I've made bigger channels before with no problems but now I just visually make sure all the holes are working after covering with pea gravel. It'll be your choice on how you want to attack it. Additionally, I don't see any harm in drilling holes in the base of that collar.

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Unread 12-15-2019, 10:56 AM   #48
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Like Jim, I've drilled the weepholes larger, up to 1/4 inch. I've torn out showers that had to ring glued to the top of the liner which is not needed.

I've used pebbles to protect the weepholes but if I don't have any handy, I'll cut 4 pieces of tile about 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 and set them over the weepholes with one end propped up on the bolt heads. Once the dry pack is placed down, the weepholes will be clear.
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Unread 12-15-2019, 11:29 AM   #49
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I have a question regarding weep holes that I've never quite understood.if the mud pan is porous enough for water to soak through it down to the liner and float the drain, why is it then not poor enough for the water to flow through it in the weep holes if there is mud in them??
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Unread 12-15-2019, 05:10 PM   #50
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Think about it somewhat as the volume through the weep holes versus the amount of water that could be building up around the entire drain assembly. Then, as was mentioned, when you use the sealant underneath the liner, then bolt the top in place, that can cause the liner to bulge up in the weep hole trough, closing most of it off. You want those small weep holes to be as unobstructed as possible. Probably other things as well that can contribute to the effect.

IMHO, the better way around all of this is a surface mounted sheet membrane rather than an inch or more of deck mud that can get wet. The thin layer of thinset is denser, and what water does penetrate doesn't tend to migrate very far, and usually evaporates between uses. A conventional shower is almost expected to have some water flushing through the mud bed on a regular basis if the thing is used on a typical schedule.
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Unread 12-15-2019, 08:39 PM   #51
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Trimmed the liner back and made sure the weep holes are clear. Started pulling the floor up. You can see the holes in the grout and the moisture in the thin set and mud bed
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Unread 12-16-2019, 06:30 PM   #52
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Broke down and got the air chisel from my brothers.
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Unread 12-17-2019, 09:11 AM   #53
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those air pockets in the grout don't matter. again, your grout was not the problem.
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Unread 12-17-2019, 11:40 AM   #54
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Yes, thank you. We did find some issues we expect contributed to the problem such as some of the pebbles used to protect the weep holes were actually small enough to go into and block the holes to some extent, further exasperating this was silicone from under the liner pushed its way through the bolt holes and was filling in some of the weep troughs and around the pebbles that were in the weep holes, the liner extended passed the weep holes, also I don’t know if the thin set layer was too thick and not allowing the water to evaporate. I wouldn’t say all the weeps were blocked 100% but if the grout was letting copious amounts of water through I would think it could also be a contributing factor.


So we are going with the MSI faux Carrara porcelain 2” hex on the floor. I will remove the thin set that is still on the floor and grind the mud bed down to get more slope and lower the drain. Protect the weep holes and repair the mud bed around the drain. Any suggestions on type/brand of thin set and grout, I’m already using a Bostik color and thinking of using a non sanded or epoxy.
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Unread 12-17-2019, 02:11 PM   #55
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I would not do unsanded in a shower floor, but that is me...
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Unread 12-17-2019, 07:16 PM   #56
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Thank you. Could you elaborate as to why? Less traction or something more to do with getting wet regularly?? So you would either do sanded or epoxy?
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Unread 12-17-2019, 07:37 PM   #57
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With 1/8 joints, I'd use sanded, myself.
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Unread 12-17-2019, 07:38 PM   #58
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Sanded is stronger, but, depending on the actual gap that needs to be filled is greater than 1/8", you need to use a sanded one. At 1/8" and below, you have a choice, but generally, unsanded is called for. It depends on the size of the sand particles...some are quite fine, and can be jammed into small grout lines, but some cannot. WIth most sanded grouts, 1/8" is the minimum size it will fit into conveniently.

On some epoxy grouts, they allow you to use less of the 'sand' when mixing it up (which is often colored plastic) to make it easier to get into smaller grout lines.
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Unread 12-18-2019, 09:34 AM   #59
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sanded is more durable.

look at mapei ultracolor plus FA. The FA stands for fine aggregate.

http://www.mapeihome.com/ultracolor-plus
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Unread 12-26-2019, 11:00 PM   #60
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Any updates, James?

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