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Unread 12-08-2019, 03:38 PM   #16
clegg
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Cool, Thanks for all the info.
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Unread 12-09-2019, 06:32 PM   #17
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I am still considering the presloped style shower pan. I put my hands on the kerdi today. It is just a Styrofoam piece . Is the durock pan made of the same ice chest material as the kerdi?
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Unread 12-09-2019, 06:42 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed
I am still considering the presloped style shower pan.
Not sure what you might mean there, Ed. You're talking about a traditional mud-liner-mud type receptor?

All the foam shower trays are of similar material. Not quite the same, perhaps, but nothing about any of them that would make me use one in lieu of a sloped mortar bed.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 12-09-2019, 07:52 PM   #19
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The foam pans are fine once they're thinsetted in place, the membrane is installed and the tile is on it. Keep in mind that they use the same stuff in building up the approaches to highway bridges. The stuff is robust. It's a lot denser than a foam cooler. A mud pan is more flexible in that it can accommodate any irregular surfaces or sizes and can handle a drain that might be offset a bit from where the foam tray expects it. Also keep in mind, that at least a couple of the companies will mill a custom foam pan just for your enclosure, if you want that. Deck mud is 'dirt' cheap in comparison, but takes more time and skill to install properly (it's not rocket science, though, and even if you have to tear it out and start over, the second one will go in quicker and easier!). It's a lot easier to carry home a foam pan than the raw materials of deck mud!

When comparing a foam pan to a traditional mud pan, it has some benefit if on say a concrete slab...it warms up almost instantly because of the insulation. I can notice, some may not. It does 'sound' a bit different if you drop something on it. Some brands (Wedi comes to mind) do have a size restriction, but for most people, that's not an issue. There's a limit on how big you can go on a shower pan (unless say a linear drain style where it's essentially a single flat plane) because of the more bowl shape...larger tile end up with lippage as they can't lay flat everywhere. FWIW, on the foam pans, you can handle large format tile (not necessarily recommended, as grout lines add more grip when wet), if you cut them along the 'fold' lines. That's pretty hard to do with a mud pan.

So, to me, anyway, it's a function of convenience, and how much prep you may have to do prior, if the area is not 'perfect' for the available sizes. As to cutting off 5", that's less than an 1/8" difference in height of the pan at that side. You may not notice, some would hate it forever. TO overcome some of that, you'd probably want to cut a slight amount off of the tile on the higher pan sides to keep the top edges even, where you would notice, if they were offset.
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Unread 12-10-2019, 07:04 AM   #20
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Ed, I used a Durock foam shower pan, custom made to my 42X84 ish shower floor size. It is fairly dense, but can be easily dented before tile is set on it. Afterwards, not so much. Mine has been in use now for over two months, no issues.

You do still need to consider how flat and level the subfloor is, because it does need to be both, or at least very close. For a smaller floor, level might not be as critical when using the Durock foam pan; the thickness at the drain and at the perimeter is always the same, meaning a smaller pan will have more slope than a larger one will so if the subfloor is a little off the pan should still have enough slope to drain properly. I don't know about the Schluter pans.

I'd encourage you to investigate that pivoting door, as the only way I've seen them mounted is by anchoring the bottom, weight bearing pivot into the curb and you would really rather avoid poking holes into your curb.
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Unread 12-10-2019, 02:53 PM   #21
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Dan, Thanks for the info on the pan. I am going to use the durock system and I will ensure that the subfloor is level. The pan size will be 36x48 so not too large.
The video on the install shows unmodified thinset for the pan installation to the floor. Did you put anything on the subfloor before the thinset?
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Unread 12-10-2019, 03:12 PM   #22
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Best to wipe the floor with a damp sponge before applying the thinset mortar, Ed, but you need put nothing on it before the mortar.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 12-10-2019, 03:20 PM   #23
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Sounds good, thanks CX!

Dan

The shower door actually is hinged to the wall. While I have that all torn out, I will be sure to have stud where it hinges.
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Unread 12-11-2019, 07:09 AM   #24
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Sounds like a plan, Ed. You might want to reach out to Durock and see if they are still doing their custom made foam pans. Though more expensive it might save you some headaches, and you can specify exactly where you want the drain to be. They take but 7 days from order to delivery to your door.

Due to the width of the door hinges, and the weight of the door, you'll want at least 2 studs, ideally screwed to the top and bottom plates, and to each other. While your at it make sure the top and bottom plates are securely fastened if this is an interior wall, in my limited experience they'll have only a few nails and chewing gum holding them in place.
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Unread 12-12-2019, 04:57 PM   #25
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Good points. I will make sure everything is screwed in properly Dan. That door will be heavy.

My shower system is arriving tomorrow and the shower door that I had ordered is already in at Menards. When I ordered it, the arrival date to Menards was 12/23.

I also decided to use the same tile as I used on the Master bath floor a year ago. Lowes had discontinued it. They had a few of the tiles on clearance and they checked around, the Lowes in Hannibal, MO (1 1/2 hrs away) had the amount left on clearance that I needed.

I am going to do the pebble shower floor. The flat top ones not the rounded.

The fun (suffering) lol begins.

This forum is a great resource for the tile diy'er.

I'm sure I will have questions along the way in the following weeks.
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Unread 12-13-2019, 04:37 PM   #26
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I had special ordered a frameless hinged shower door and was notified that it came to the store.
I went at12:30 and picked it up (probably 400 lbs).

I got home and began to unload the boxes and then came across the installation manual. Completely wrong door! This one had sliding doors and a base included.
This wasted 2 1/2 hours of my time. I feel bad for contractors that more than likely have this happen.

I returned it and got a refund.

Any suggestions from the pros on nice frameless hinged shower doors?

48 wide X 72.

I am open to a pivoting type door but would have to build a better curb as I am using a Durock system.
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Unread 12-13-2019, 06:36 PM   #27
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I’ve used the Vigo glass door systems. Been pleased with the glass and hardware quality and on the occasions I’ve had to use customer service, it’s been a pleasant surprise as well. They have both hinge and pivot systems. Worth a look. Any local glass shops that do shower door work?
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Unread 12-14-2019, 09:03 AM   #28
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I would check a glass shop. They can make a custom door that will fit perfectly. Then they will also install it.

If you haven't yet, I would check the boxes of tile that you bought from the other store to make sure you're happy with the shading and size of the tiles. Check the Lot and shade numbers on the boxes, I doubt they will all match but hopefully they are close enough to work together.
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Unread 12-14-2019, 09:52 AM   #29
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A 48" wide door is a biggin, Ed. Heavy, and consumes a lot of sweep area. You might consider a fixed panel paired with, say, a 30" door. I'd still want to avoid a pivot system, as the hardware will have to be screwed into the curb.

Definitely consider having a glass company or two come out and have a look, provide estimates.
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Unread 12-14-2019, 06:14 PM   #30
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In a Schluter class, they indicated they really don't want you drilling through their membrane, especially into say the foam curb, to try to mount anything. BUT, to provide a suitable anchoring plate, should you need to, their suggestion was to get an acrylic cutting board, route out a pocket in the curb deep enough for the board plus thinset (get one at least 1/2" thick), then thinset in the section of the cutting board into the pocket so it's flush with the rest of the curb, then cover it with the membrane. The actual foam curb is waterproof, but to help prevent moisture from getting anywhere, they suggested to fill the pilot hole with KerdiFix prior to inserting the screw.

You should be able to do a similar thing with Kerdiboard, but you'd then need to use KerdiBand to seal the seams.
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