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Unread 12-09-2019, 08:43 AM   #31
speed51133
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Is your plan to clear it out then re-pack and re-set tile? If you get the same darkening tiles, I would opt for an "enhancing sealer" and live with whatever the results are.
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Unread 12-09-2019, 11:27 AM   #32
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Not sure what you mean by clear it out. The weep holes? Or the whole upper mud bed?

I was thinking of taking up most of the floor, leaving the outside perimeter tiles that are tucked under the bottom row of wall tiles. Grind down any thin set. Grind the long slopes of the mud bed to get more pitch. Scratch away the mud/pebbles in the drain hole at the weep holes and make sure they are clear. Replace the upper part of the drain with one that has the chrome square that the strainer sits in just because it’s nicer and lower the drain by 1/8-1/4”. Retile with the same marble or possibly a faux marble porcelain made by the same company if it blends ok. I have a sample of that showing up today.

Thoughts?
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Unread 12-09-2019, 11:37 AM   #33
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the only way that would really help is if you could make the pre-slope steeper. you can't do that unless you cut out the liner....

I don't think just re-doing the final slope would really help much, but if you want to try you need to move the drain deeper into the mud bed to allow for it. If the drain stays put, you won't be doing anything.
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Unread 12-09-2019, 01:08 PM   #34
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Yeah I’m def not cutting out the liner. I think the preslope is sufficient and I’ve seen demo’s mocked up and tested with no preslope that once saturated still shed all the test water, 5gal, through the weepholes and when broken up had no standing water. Now this was a small 2x2’ mock up mudbed over rubber liner. But the way my darkening tile color is spreading from the center outwards I would think that the water is traveling to the center.



The long sides of the floor are a little flat per the reg of 1/4” per ft. My long sides are 29” from wall to the center of drain and fall is between 3/8-7/16”+ and should be more like 5/8”, so I will attempt to achieve that degree of fall. And yes as stated above I would lower the drain 1/8-1/4” as needed.
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Unread 12-09-2019, 01:20 PM   #35
speed51133
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I really don't think what you are doing will make any difference at all, but it can't make it worse.

if you are changing to porcelain in the process, that will directly address the issue.
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Unread 12-09-2019, 02:47 PM   #36
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Capillary action can hold water in places you wouldn't think, and prevent it from flowing as you expect. That's one reason why the liner needs that minimum slope to ensure gravity can overcome the capillary action. Throw anything into the equation that can inhibit that gravitational effect, and capillary action wins. In that type of a shower system, you want the water to constantly be flushed out...without enough slope, that won't happen.
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Unread 12-09-2019, 02:49 PM   #37
speed51133
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Jim, are you referring to the need to change the slope of the pre-slope bed, or that making the final slope steeper will help fix the issue??
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Unread 12-09-2019, 03:03 PM   #38
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The water will go down to the liner...the liner needs to be properly sloped. The top layer helps ensure most of the water flows directly to the drain and doesn't penetrate, but any that does get below, relies on the liner slope to move to the weep holes...the top slope is irrelevant in that situation.

I prefer a bonded membrane. Thinset is denser, and doesn't move water as much as deckmud so any that does penetrate, typically can evaporate back through the grout joint as it won't migrate very far. With deck mud beneath, that tends to suck any moisture that does get through down into the bed, and once enough accumulates, it will flow (if properly sloped) to the drain. A bonded membrane isn't as affected, since not as much gets below, and it generally can dry out in between uses. The actual volume of what can be held underneath is also much less, especially if the weep holes get clogged.

Bonded membranes have been around for about 30-years now, so they're not new tech like some would profess. Not as old as liners, though. Materials are more, but labor (should be) less.
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Unread 12-09-2019, 04:12 PM   #39
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Can the locking ring be installed in either of these configurations?
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Unread 12-09-2019, 04:26 PM   #40
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Yes, it can, James. Makes for more flexible height adjustment for your final mud bed depth.
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Unread 12-09-2019, 05:25 PM   #41
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Thank you. And yes I agree that if I don’t change the floor material (marble) that this may all be for not. But at least I will have eliminated some variables and know I have done all I can. I got one of the faux marble porcelain samples today so we will see if it passes the wife and then I will have to decide to take the floor up.






I thought I had read that about the locking ring as I installed mine with the threaded collar on top. Makes it more difficult to check the weep holes now.

I did pick up the upper drain and strainer in chrome today. Should look nicer when finished.

Would also like to thank everyone for their time and comments this far, they are much appreciated.
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Unread 12-09-2019, 08:20 PM   #42
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If you look at the threads in the plastic, you'll see the v shape cut outs where there are no threads. Those are weepholes too. I've placed the ring both ways but having the collar up eliminates those V shape weepholes unless the water gets an inch deep.
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Unread 12-10-2019, 11:10 AM   #43
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So here's one that I did several years ago.

The mud bed around the drain was still wet after months of no use. When I dug into it the mud dried right out.

This repair fixed the problem with this shower. The problem was that the weep holes were clogged. I suspect that's the problem that you have.

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Dig it down, like you've done, but expose the entire clamping ring. Make sure that you don't compromise the liner!

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Make sure to VERIFY that the weep holes are working correctly by pouring water around the ring.

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I know, the tile doesn't match exactly. But it's homeowner approved.

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Things to keep in mind:
  • pea gravel works well to keep the weep holes clear. However, it doesn't do anything if they are already plugged.
  • Don't crank down on the bolts. Don't do a torque sequence. The bolts just need to tight enough to hold the clamping ring in place.
  • There should be sealant between the bottom of the liner and the top of the drain body. This sealant can conform to the weep holes on the bottom of the clamping ring once the ring is installed and plug the holes (channels). The sealant needs to be pushed down to keep the channels clear.
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Unread 12-10-2019, 03:33 PM   #44
jadnashua
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This product might help to keep the weep holes clear https://noblecompany.com/products/po...weep-protector
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Unread 12-14-2019, 04:57 PM   #45
Jepjep13
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So it looks like the ring of pebbles that was supposed to protect the weep holes was sufficient but some were too small and actually wound up in the weep holes, that coupled with silicone squeezing out of the screw holes further blocking the holes. Also the liner going all the way into the drain may be blocking the holes as well. I’m going to pull the locking ring and clean it all up or replace it the the same new one that came with the new chrome drain. What are the thoughts about cutting more and or deeper weep troughs in the locking ring. Also since I am running the locking ring with the collar up I’m not taking advantage of the weeps built into the drain threads. What if I drilled a hole in the side of the collar were the missing threads are. Suggestions on where I should cut the liner back too.
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