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Unread 10-02-2013, 03:58 PM   #1
drrehak
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Kevin's Bath Remodel

hi, I just joined the forums. Looks like some great info here!

quick tip: when searching forums, it's more useful to name thread title something more specific than "Kevin's bath remodel". I found myself clicking on tons of threads, looking for my answers.

In any case, I have been watching youtube videos like crazy, and reading up articles. I have just put my 1st layer of mud down. I am waiting for CPE membrane to come in the mail.

In planning for the install of Wonderboard:
1: should I use building paper behind AND/or vapor barrier plastic?

2: should I seal seams with thinset and the wonderboard tape? or seal with silicone caulk?

3. Do I also caulk along bottom edge of wonderboard?

4. I have seen articles where they recommend "notching the studs" for the thickness of the liner. I dont understand this. Wouldn't you also have to set-back the 2x6 blocking?

thanks in advance for any advice or recommendations!!
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Unread 10-02-2013, 05:33 PM   #2
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Welcome, Kevin.

We actually prefer the generic titles for project threads because they usually contain question about all sorts of things. And if someone searched for information about Wonderboard, they'd now hit upon your thread title and think it was actually about Wonderboard instead of Kevin's bath remodel, eh?

1. Unless this is a steam shower, you require no vapor barrier at all. You do need either a moisture barrier behind the Wonderboard or a direct bonded waterproofing membrane on the inside, but not both. See also the link in #2.

2. We always recommend you read and follow the manufacturer's instructions for installing the product.

3. At the bottom of your shower wall? No, you wouldn't wanna do that.

4. For a traditional shower pan construction, yes, you would.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-07-2013, 02:12 PM   #3
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looks like I have to fix preslope

after testing liner and watching water drain out. I see a small puddle. To fix: just mix up some more deck mud? or do I need to smear some thinset first?

also, looks like I can't change name of thread to :
"Kevin's Bath Remodel"
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Unread 10-07-2013, 03:07 PM   #4
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If the depression in the pre-slope is deep enough for a deck mud repair, I'd honestly recommend you remove it entirely and do another. The practice will do you good come time to make your final mud bed, which needs to be right on the first pass.

But any time you bond concrete or deck mud to old material a slurry of thinset mortar or Portland cement is recommended as a bonding agent.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-07-2013, 03:44 PM   #5
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thanks. not what I wanted to hear though!

the depression is small. about 5" in diam. still redo? I was hoping to patch without even removing entire liner.
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Unread 10-07-2013, 03:48 PM   #6
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If it's just a minor repair, just go to Homer's and get some concrete patching material to smooth it over. The pre-slope needs only be flat, properly sloped, and solid enough to support the intended traffic.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-09-2013, 03:42 PM   #7
drrehak
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concrete repair worked great. I bought the smallest tub and only used a few scoops. I didnt even need to lift the liner out the whole way. in fact, when the patching was still wet the liner was put back down and I was able to "squish" it to even out the depression.

I am now putting up Wonderboard. I was trying to put up an additional furring strip for backing and ripped the felt. any suggestions? tape? run new felt across this area?
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Unread 10-09-2013, 04:22 PM   #8
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Easy fix, kevin. All that roofing felt will need to be replaced when you put it over the furring strips where it belongs. You can just discard that torn piece when you do that.

And the felt absolutely must lap over the drain side of your pan liner.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-13-2013, 07:57 PM   #9
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wonderboard fully up/curb done

I taped and sealed seams. I decided to buy some extra insurance with Redguard over walls. I know just to do the walls, but should I include a little of the floor? I was thinking of painting the floor to wall seam.
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Unread 10-13-2013, 08:17 PM   #10
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That is not a belt and suspenders kinda thing, Brian. The fact that you used felt behind the backer board (and furring strips) is better than having used polyethylene, though.

Please don't make things worse by extending your waterproofing membrane onto the shower floor even a little bit.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-13-2013, 08:34 PM   #11
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so just do the walls? stop right at the floor?
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Unread 10-14-2013, 05:02 AM   #12
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Hey Kevin,

I noticed in your initial pic that it looks like you used pressure treated wood for your curb. Is that so? You might want to think about going back and removing that and replacing it with standard non-PT wood. You'll likely get some movement and it can lead to cracks later.

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Unread 10-15-2013, 10:11 PM   #13
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Damn. Yes. I used PT wood. Not sure how I missed that. I just assumed I would want that as being better.

I used some pretty long screws into new plywood, plywood is screwed into joints. I let it dry for about a week. I also alternated the joints (like Lincoln logs).

I've decided ill take my chances with the PT wood. At this point it would be too much to redo that.

Next question. Evening up the curb. There are slight imperfections in the curb. I understand that I can use thinset up to 1/4" to even out? Do I do this when tiling? Or let thinset dry??
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Unread 10-16-2013, 12:01 AM   #14
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I'd get it as good as you want it before you start tiling. You can make small corrections as you tile, but get it as good as possible before you start.
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Unread 10-16-2013, 09:19 AM   #15
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You might be fine w/ the PT ... especially if it was nice and dry when you started too. The plywood and screws won't prevent the PT from moving when it dries, but it shouldn't compromise your waterproofing by any means. Probably okay carrying on.

Thinset isn't supposed to be used in that manner, but many do and it works just fine.
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