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Unread 11-06-2010, 08:29 PM   #16
cx
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Quit wafflin' Gueuze, and call Bill. Then hand over the C-note we bet.

If the existing subfloor is in suitable shape for a full-spread glue application, and you can get those unsupported edges pulled up against the second layer sufficiently (requires pre-drilling to suit moi), I agree you'd have a decent subfloor. If.

Personally, as I've said plenty times in past, I glue everything to everything in any subfloor application whenever possible. I don't try to glue to board subflooring or to OSB, but anything else gonna get some adhesive of some sort.
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Unread 11-06-2010, 08:48 PM   #17
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I haven't waffled since 9:30 this morning.
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Unread 11-07-2010, 09:49 AM   #18
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You're not seein' that for direct bond to plywood with Portland cement mortars, right, Matt? It's in there for epoxy and organic adhesives, actually, but I've never paid much attention to that section. I see it also says there that you can use "adhesive or 3d ring shank nails" [emphasis mine]. And I don't see any indication of the use requirements there at all.
3.4.1-organic adhesive or epoxy adhesive
3.4.2-chemical resistant epoxy mortar
3.4.3-latex portland cement mortar

I think it is for direct to the ply. And it's 3/8" for residential.

I don't feel good about it either, though. I think I'll just tell the HO that we're not coming in flush unless he wants to re-do the subfloor.

Thanks for all the responses!
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Unread 11-07-2010, 10:01 AM   #19
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I see that in the epoxy applications, but not in the latex-portland cement mortar direct bonding section (3.4.3.3), Matt. There I see only half-inch and five-eighths-inch underlayment listed. I'm looking at a 2009 version of the A108/A118 book.
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Unread 11-07-2010, 10:12 AM   #20
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TCNA F160 -

3/8" 7 ply Arctic Birch. (Halex is 7 ply birch)

I don't believe ANSI has a parallel guideline. Also, TCNA want's 3/4" subfloor. Halex manufacturer allows for 5/8". The subfloor panels also need to be T&G (surprise).


I know you aren't asking, but it's either this or read nonsense in the Mud Box.
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Unread 11-07-2010, 10:16 AM   #21
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Yeah, Matt, that Halex is a whole different category, and manufacturer's specs always trump industry specs, eh?
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Unread 11-07-2010, 02:44 PM   #22
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My bad, I'm a little thick. I think my pea brain saw 15/32 (12mm) next to each other and processed it as 12/32.
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Unread 11-07-2010, 03:44 PM   #23
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Ah! Thanks, thought I was missing something else in there. Bad 'nuff already.
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Unread 11-07-2010, 05:06 PM   #24
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Just curious when you guys say to "full glue" the additional wood underlayment down..just what type of glue are you using?
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Unread 11-08-2010, 12:32 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by JC
Just curious when you guys say to "full glue" the additional wood underlayment down..just what type of glue are you using?
The glue they're talking about is the yellow wood glue like Titebond.
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Unread 11-08-2010, 05:04 PM   #26
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I use mastic spread with notch trowel, mostly to see cx's finger wag, but also because it works.
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Unread 11-08-2010, 08:05 PM   #27
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Titebond- exterior.

I'm able to get CX to wag his finger enough 'bout other things....

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Unread 11-08-2010, 08:25 PM   #28
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titebond..isn't that runny?
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Unread 11-09-2010, 07:58 AM   #29
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I agree it's a chancy deal, but if someone held a gun to my head and told me do it or die I would use Ditra-XL, the "uber Ditra" Jim mentioned above. When testing, Schluter had some pretty impressive results with the stuff over 5/8 ply. I don't think anybody will warrant your job, but it's probably the best bet.
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