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Unread 04-13-2021, 09:08 AM   #16
BIGPHIL
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Clark,

I'll give you an answer for #3, but I'll defer to others for answering q's 1-2.

For q 3: Wedi calls for the use of a modified thinset mortar meeting ANSI 118.4 requirements when installing a membrane to overlap into the Fundo Lingo shower base. The membrane should reach 4" inside the shower base and the last two inches should be embedded in a full bed of Wedi sealant 620 (this prevents the capillary wicking you spoke of). The membrane should reach 3' outside the base (or wherever the expected splash area is to be). They also call for the membrane to be flashed up the walls a minimum of 2". Using Ditra heat, you may have some issues with the height of the pan to Ditra connection that I'd be sure to work out before setting the pan to ensure they're flush with each other. I also suggest downloading a copy of the latest Wedi technical handbook and reviewing the Fundo Lingo installation instructions starting on page 27.
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Unread 04-15-2021, 04:35 PM   #17
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Floor height layout for curbless shower

Thanks for all the responses. I have checked floor strength with the deflecto tool. Joists are 2x12, just under 12ft long, so I plugged in 12 ft. I get L883. The plywood is 3/4". I have rescrewed it next to every old nail that was there and hammered nails back in. I have 4"x12" tile that is 3/8" thick and want to try to match the adjacent floor as much as possible. The shower floor tile is the same thickness. The next floor is 11/16". I'm using Ditra Heat, so I'm thinking 1/8" thinset +1/4 Ditra Heat+1/8" thinset+3/8 tile = 7/8", so a little fat but not to bad so far as the next room transition goes. So then I want to set my Wedi Fundo Ligno pan only 3/8" down instead of the full 3/4 subfloor thickness so it matches the height of the Ditra? Does this sound correct and do others have a trick for matching this transition height perfectly? Thanks!
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Unread 04-15-2021, 04:50 PM   #18
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Would you use this plywood subfloor?

I want to include an image of the subfloor I plan to set tile on. There are a couple of spots I would replace (Old toilet drop hole, old bathtub cutout)but I'm thinking it looks ok? It's all rescrewed and 3/4". I would go over it with an orbital sander to remove that old glue. As I mentioned earlier on this thread, it had 5/8 ply screwed to it and that was the underlayment for the tile I removed. It's about 40 years old and not splintering or delaminating anywhere. BTW- there's radiant floor tubing attached to the whole thing, so replacement would be very involved (I almost said a can of worms!). Any opinions? Thanks!
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Unread 04-16-2021, 04:36 AM   #19
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Is this thread getting lost?

Hi I notice responses to this thread dropping off. I’ve been keeping this bathroom project on the same thread as requested but wonder if starting a new thread gets more responses and wonder when it’s appropriate to do so? Thanks!
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Unread 04-16-2021, 07:53 AM   #20
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Clark, the army of volunteers here do try to reply to questions as expediently as possible but there are times when a question or two might go unaddressed for a bit. Please do keep everything in the same thread, and don't be shy about replying yourself to "bump" the thread back to the top.

If your 3/4" ply is as sound as you describe then it should be fine. The photo you provided suggests that the adhesive isn't covering all the ply so removing it wouldn't be too difficult. Scrape off as much as you can, then hit it with a sander.

You have radiant heat under the ply now, and want to install Ditra heat too? Ok. 1/8" mortar under the DH is a but much, it'll probably be closer to 1/16th. Though your tile is 3/8" how much mortar ends up under them will be dictated by the size of the trowel, which is dictated by the L+W of the tile.

I don't know anything about the Wedi Fundo Ligno pan you plan to use or how it is supposed to be installed. If that pan is meant to be tiled you do want the final "tileable" edge of the pan to be even with the tileable surface of the rest of the floor.

But. If your shower floor tile is 3/8" thick but, say, only 2"X2" you'll want to use something like a 1/4" square notch trowel to set those to prevent mortar squeeze out into the grout joints. If your main floor tiles are larger, say 12X24, you'll need to use a 3/8 or 1/2 notch trowel to set those. So you'll have more mortar thickness under the main floor tile than you will under the shower floor tile. If you start with your "tileable" surfaces at the same height then your main floor tile will be higher than the shower tile.
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Unread 04-16-2021, 06:07 PM   #21
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large format to shower floor tile transition height problem

Dan! Thanks so much for pointing out the problem of matching the height of small tiles and large tiles of the same thickness due to amount of thin set used. I hadn't considered this, but I don't think there's a way to create a step in the tileable surfaces of the bathroom floor to shower pan junction. That transition is covered by a membrane and the transition is smooth. The bathroom floor tile, I found out today, isn't the size I mentioned before but 4x24. Same thickness as the shower floor tiles. To get them to match can I use a matching notched trowel in the shower and not press them down so hard? Maybe only on the first couple of courses until I'm away from the transition point, set them gently with a grout float and then switch to the 1/4x1/4 notch for the rest of the shower pan? I imagine I'll have some thin set picking to do after it starts to cure due to press-out. Can anyone tell me how they handle this issue? Thanks
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Unread 04-16-2021, 06:10 PM   #22
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3/4 ply OK by Schluter rep

Just to confirm- I contacted the Schluter rep and they're fine with 3/4 ply- especially when they realized it's t&g. They said just scrape off the glue, lightly sand and apply Ditra.
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Unread 04-16-2021, 06:35 PM   #23
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Schluter drain cover in wedi pan?

Customer wants to know if it's possible to use one of the decorative Schluter drain covers she prefers in a Wedi shower pan? Is this doable? I'm trying to remember how the drain cover fits - doesn't it just sit in a bed of thin set?
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Unread 04-17-2021, 08:08 AM   #24
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An experienced tile setter might be able to do as you described, Clark, but I ain't one of 'em.

You can also use a thin lift of thinset mortar to raise the first 3 or 4 rows of shower floor tile if you need to. In other words, set your main floor tile first, then use some mortar to create a tapered area along where the two floors meet; thicker at the main floor tile, tapered to nothing on the pan. The pan pitch will be a little greater at the entrance but not noticeably so. You can finesse the height with a rub brick if needed. This is exactly how I did mine.

No idea on the drain grates.
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Unread 04-19-2021, 04:33 AM   #25
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Schluter drain grate on wedi pan?

Anybody know if I can make a Schluter drain cover work on a Wedi shower pan? Thanks!
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Unread 04-20-2021, 06:41 AM   #26
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floor patch material?

Hello again! No takers on my Schluter drain grate question.. Looks to me like it's an inverted topcoat spacer you trim to tile thickness and the "brim" piece fits exactly in the Schluter drain pan recess?

Today's question: What are suitable materials for floor patching before applying Ditra Heat to my 3/4 plywood subfloor? For a 40 mile drive I could get Pro Patch, which I've used before and is suitable for wet areas. Level Best is available at the local building supply store but I see they don't recommend it for wet areas. The salesperson of that store did recommend Ardex, but wasn't clear about which one to use. They have three different ones: AM100, x32 and x77. I'll need to level an area of floor that is out of level by 11/16 in 42 inches and feather to nothing. Does anyone use thinset for this? I have to keep things pretty flat as well: my floor thickness is good at the threshold and we want the install to be wheelchair friendly. The main floor will be 4x24 tiles and I plan to use the Lash system to avoid lippage. I'm still struggling with layout and flatness issues: how much undulation will that size tile tolerate? I haven't set a lot of large tile like this and could use some coaching. Can anyone recommend any articles and techniques? Thanks!
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Unread 04-20-2021, 07:32 AM   #27
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Seems to me if a Shluter drain grate is the only thing you'll accept, the logical choice would be to build a Kerdi shower and use the Schluter drain, non?

There is no need to level the floor for a tile installation. The tiles don't care a whit about level, they care only about flat. The larger the tiles, the more they care. The industry standard for flatness for tiles the size you have is no deviation from intended plane of more than 1/8th" in ten feet nor 1/16th" in two feet.

You do not want to fill any 3/4" deviations in your subfloor with thinset mortar. In fact, thinset mortar is not to be used for "truing or flattening the work of others" in any case, but many installers do some of that.

I'm not familiar with the various Ardex products.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 04-20-2021, 08:48 PM   #28
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Recommendations floor patch products

Hi - can others share what products they use for patching and flattening plywood subfloors before putting down ditra? More detail in previous posts on this thread. Thanks!
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Unread 05-02-2021, 01:33 PM   #29
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Floor transition issue curbless shower

Hi All- This is the difference in the transition I have on my curbless shower pan and Ditra heat on the main bathroom floor. It is 1/4" at the worst part and 1/8" to nothing along the edge where the shower entry is. The floor drops off at that short return another 1/8" and I'm not sure why. So I have to somehow feather out after having installed the Ditra heat and before applying my Wedi Subliner Dry membrane to the transition. It's been suggested not to do this with thinset. The pan is installed properly and level, so the deviation must be in the floor. I'm hoping an experienced tile setter will make a suggestions on what my options are. BTW- Shower glass will be installed directly over that transition to complete this shower, so a mounting bracket will get screwed into the floor bridging this transition. Thanks! Clark
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Unread 05-02-2021, 01:49 PM   #30
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Hope images show up!

I'm on a super slow connection and the images show that they're uploaded, but I don't see them in my post! Also, apologies for sideways images- when I sent them they were oriented correctly..
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