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01-30-2009, 12:56 AM
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#16
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Tampa Florida Tile Contractor
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Tampa & Wesley Chapel, Florida
Posts: 26,533
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Quote:
notice no tape in the CBU joint to the left
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my left or yours
either or, nice cut!
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01-30-2009, 12:59 AM
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#17
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Moderator -- Wisconsin Kitchen & Bath Remodeler
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oak Creek, WI
Posts: 23,541
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trask
I snapped a picture and left.
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Don't leave us hanging...tell us how the conversation went after you called the builder back!
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01-30-2009, 01:01 AM
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#18
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Oregon Tile Man
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Astoria Or.
Posts: 5,900
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Anyone ever used a wood router to rough shape bullnose on stone..with a carbide wood bit? I'd think it was stupid but it works..actually really well on soft stones like carrera marble, many limestones and soapstone. Bits don't last long but they are cheap for what you get out of them. We did it like this for a long time.. I would think safety glasses might be better than squinting and holding your head back though.
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01-30-2009, 01:09 AM
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#19
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Bucket abuser
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Wildomar Ca
Posts: 9,177
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In post #15 pic #2 I woulda made an L-cut/miter instead of that chicken
leg, but I gotta say the scribe border that follows the tub is clean as all
get out
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01-30-2009, 01:10 AM
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#20
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Oregon Tile Man
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Astoria Or.
Posts: 5,900
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Bubba the conversation didn't go too specifically good.. he started with.."So what the problem with you guys.."
Here's more polishing romance..39 degrees outside and raining..42 degrees and wet up to your ears in the uninsulated shop.. If I didn't know this guy I'd think he got paid in crack..cause that's where I'd hafta be to enjoy this...for whatever reason A.J really digs wet polishing and I'm awful sure glad for him feeling that way.
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01-30-2009, 01:20 AM
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#21
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Bucket abuser
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Wildomar Ca
Posts: 9,177
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I was checking out your mud pics. Wondering if you fellas cut your mud
height? I typically have a story pole of tile on the ground somewhere abouts
and will measure roughly, actually as close as possible for my rough in,
leave my mud heavy and after the mud is firm hold a level to the top of
my perimeter and cut it down with a flat trowel or margin. I dont like to
chisel mud, and in the same way hate to backfill. I think the practice comes
from alot of fresh/wet setting. Tapping tight joint quarter round into fresh
mud is the fastest and easiest way to set it. Leaving that perfect amount
of prefloat mud is essential for running space joint on big jobs. Just curious.
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01-30-2009, 01:39 AM
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#22
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Oregon Tile Man
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Astoria Or.
Posts: 5,900
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Two things that I love to see..the tragedy is it shouldn't even be noteworthy..but a vacum and a guy backbuttering every tile.. I'm happy to pay for the extra time as those are two simple things that I believe make a big long term difference.
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01-30-2009, 01:42 AM
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#23
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Oregon Tile Man
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Astoria Or.
Posts: 5,900
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Sorry Jack I missed you there...So are you saying you wet set the 1/4 rnd or just bullnose the mud back when it's plastic to make a easier corner to put them onto?
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01-30-2009, 02:00 AM
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#24
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Bucket abuser
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Wildomar Ca
Posts: 9,177
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With tight joint we set fresh. Float over a scratch coat and set the same
day. I'm sure alot of cali setters are familiar with this. We leave a 1/2" +/-
of mud past the field, give the quarter round a swipe of thinset and tap it into fresh mud
with the butt of the margin trowel. Some will take a flat trowel, draw a line
of thinset and drop a 45% bed of thinset around the perimeter of the piece
and tap quarters into it. Either way. With me personally, working spaced
joint I prefer to prefloat...prep one day come back and set another. Its
why I mentioned a dislike for chiseling and backfilling. Imma huge fan of
a nice prep job.
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01-30-2009, 02:16 AM
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#25
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Snohomish, WA
Posts: 3,098
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I dont have to many pictures in general but, heres one of my helper on his nightmaresh shift of piecing in glass nips. Had to take turns it sucked so bad.
second ones just groutin up a basic tub surround.
__________________
Jeremy
Cascade Tileworks,llc
Licensed, Bonded & Insured
WA Lic# CASCATL894QA
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01-30-2009, 04:22 AM
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#26
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Oregon Tile Man
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Astoria Or.
Posts: 5,900
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What is that glass set over? It looks like a buttload of work
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01-30-2009, 04:30 AM
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#27
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Oregon Tile Man
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Astoria Or.
Posts: 5,900
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Speaking of a ton of work I really kinda miss doing muds..we seem to have gotten lazy with kerdi. It stinks because I have to do it regularly to stay fast and I personally haven't floated a wall for over a year.
I think if I were doing it again everyday the coolness might leave
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01-30-2009, 09:43 AM
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#28
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Snohomish, WA
Posts: 3,098
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Trask, Its set over cbu and red guard then floated with thinset to make up the thickness difference using gauge sticks.
__________________
Jeremy
Cascade Tileworks,llc
Licensed, Bonded & Insured
WA Lic# CASCATL894QA
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01-30-2009, 09:55 AM
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#29
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Snohomish, WA
Posts: 3,098
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Heres another, Cast stone surround outa Texas.
__________________
Jeremy
Cascade Tileworks,llc
Licensed, Bonded & Insured
WA Lic# CASCATL894QA
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01-30-2009, 10:33 AM
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#30
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Utah Tile Contractor
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Riverton, Utah, Salt Lake City
Posts: 2,276
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Trask,
Why do you feel it necessary to vacuum the ditra? I was under the impression it didn't matter since thinset doesn't bond to ditra anyway. I guess if the waffles were really really full of stuff you could have a problem but a little job dust shouldn't cause a problem, or am I missing something?
Some great pics in here already.
__________________
Bryan
EX Tile Contractor
Positive Tile and Stone
Salt Lake City, Utah
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