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Unread 05-08-2021, 08:21 PM   #91
Gozo
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Shifting back from the Redguard thickness thing…

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What is the best way to ensure I end up with a full tile at the ceiling…or at least close to it? (Is there a trick other than measuring? The 1/8” grout lines are throwing me off in my mind). Is it pretty much a given that I will have to cut the top tile?
Best or not, the method I used was making up a “story stick”. Used a long piece if lath (1 1/2 x 1/4 or so by 7’) and laid out the tiles and spacers against it. Marked where these were on the stick and then could slide it up and around to see where the best spacing was to avoid slivers. Also helps to get an idea of where the low and high spots were on the ceiling/wall junctions. (They’re rarely perfect).
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Unread 05-08-2021, 08:45 PM   #92
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Scott, I know it's frustrating. I usually use the small 6 inch roller (3/8 nap) and I dip the whole roller into the Redgard. I don't wipe any off, I then roll it on the wall covering about 1 1/2 to 2 sq ft with what's on the roller. Like Cx always says, it's not like painting your bedroom wall. So, I'm probably putting it on a little thicker than you. I usually install tar paper behind my mud walls but on occasion I'll use a membrane on the substrate like you're doing and I usually put on 3 coats.

I don't think the picture you show would be credit card thickness. It might be thick enough, I don't know. I'm just telling you how I do it and it seems to work fine for me. I just make sure the Redgard (or any other membrane) is completely dry before I add the next coat.
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Unread 05-08-2021, 08:46 PM   #93
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Thumbs up Story Stick.....That’s the Ticket!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gozo
Best or not, the method I used was making up a “story stick”. Used a long piece if lath (1 1/2 x 1/4 or so by 7’) and laid out the tiles and spacers against it. Marked where these were on the stick and then could slide it up and around to see where the best spacing was to avoid slivers. Also helps to get an idea of where the low and high spots were on the ceiling/wall junctions. (They’re rarely perfect).
Thanks Jeff.....that’s it....Story Stick (I called it a Story Board in my post). Thanks for the name clarification and the instructions!!!!
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Unread 05-10-2021, 12:24 PM   #94
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Called Custom Tech Support….Ledger board hole fill?

I applied the rest of my second gallon of RedGard over the weekend (basically 2 more full coats plus 2 more about 2/3 way up from bottom….wettest areas I figured….so 7 coats on the lower 2/3 of shower and 5 coats on entire shower if that makes sense?). Still seeing the CBU logo thru it but not as bad.

Custom Tech support had interesting answers for product coverage. They confirmed that you should end up with about a 25mil thick membrane (Credit Card thick as Davy says) but also say that my calculation of 1 1/2 gallons is what is needed to get you there. So according to Mfg, I have applied more than enough Product. But, it is still not credit card thickness. I have not used a wet gauge to determine this (and don’t want to cut a test area to check) but have a pretty good idea it’s not 25mil thick. (Photo of final RedGard walls attached)

I will say that I experimented in some areas of the wall with a brush and product does seem to go on thicker than with a roller.

I think Davy has that years of experience going for him when it comes to rolling this stuff on and rolling it on thick. Sometimes it’s all about technique

Custom also admitted there are issues with their materials calculator (ie…..calculating I needed 3.5 gallons of RedGard for 80sf of coverage). Verbally they told me that 1 and 1/2 gallons meets suggested coverage for 80sf…..but their calculator skips from reccomending 2 gallons to recommending 3.5 gallons!!!

Suffice it to say, I am good with what’s there and am sure it is waterproof…..moving forward with tile today. I know anyone reading this is sick of this topic.

Quick question on ledger board. Once I remove it, I assume I need to fill the screw holes with something and put 7 coats of RedGard over the holes (note how I slipped in the ridiculous 7 coats again ). If someone could confirm this I would appreciate it.

Thanks and be safe out there!!!
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Unread 05-10-2021, 05:14 PM   #95
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If you already have the shower floor installed, no need for a ledger board. Start at the bottom and start tiling.
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Unread 05-11-2021, 09:33 AM   #96
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Tile layout drawing….comments

Quote:
Originally Posted by Davy
If you already have the shower floor installed, no need for a ledger board. Start at the bottom and start tiling
Thanks Davy!!! I still think I will try the Story Stick method that Jeff describes, but starting at the bottom seems to cut out a step.

Would you guys mind looking at the drawing below and let me know if anyone has a major issue with the proposed layout (I am going to lay it out on the floor with spacers first per CX comment). It’s a pretty small shower so not a lot of flexibility. Just want to make sure I’m not missing something obvious.

It might be a little unconventional way to visualize it but helps me overall. Nominal width of tiles is 12”x24” with actual being slightly smaller both directions. Drawing not to scale but close enough to visualize. Maybe over thinking it…..but that’s me.

Bottom row will end up at around 10” high. OR, if I am starting to lay at the bottom, would it be better to have the last tile at top be the 10” +/-

Thanks for your keen eyeballs on this

Thanks and let me know if any reason you think I shouldn’t lay it out like this.
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Unread 05-11-2021, 10:09 AM   #97
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Scott, consider that while you made the perimeter of your shower floor level (we hope), the ceiling is unlikely to be. Doing your cuts at the top may help with that situation.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 05-11-2021, 11:09 AM   #98
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Thanks CX…..Mapei Ultracolor FA Grout QUESTION

Quote:
Originally Posted by CX
Scott, consider that while you made the perimeter of your shower floor level (we hope), the ceiling is unlikely to be. Doing your cuts at the top may help with that situation.
Thanks CX….I am on the same page. Realized after I made the post that top cut was definitely way to go!!!

I’m assuming the layout is simple, yet fine in your eyes?

If I’m not doing ledger board, I want to grout my floor and niche first….which are both set and are ready for grout. That puts me asking a question I’ve been holding off on……..

I HAVE PURCHASED AND PLANNED ON USING MAPEI ULTRACOLOR FA GROUT (Straw Color….1/8” grout joint). Grout can still be returned at this point. I have done some very small mock up tile boards and grout seems to be OK to work with.

I have poured thru many posts on this forum where the Mapei FA has been used by DIYrs and seems to be a hard one to work with (horror stories of hard to remove grout haze, inconsistent grout lines due to fast set). Have even seen a you tube video from what appears to be a very competent tile guy saying “using FA is the best way to ruin your tile job”. Pretty scary.

Not sure I am comfortable with what seems to be a fast set time on this grout….especially on my walls. Trying to avoid creating a problem for myself.

Only grout I have ever used has been Custom Polyblend Sanded and it has always worked well for me. Never used in a wet area or with a sealer. But, with the Custom Polyblend, I would need to add a sealer. I was trying to use something that had a sealer built in (or did not need to be sealed). I know Custom makes a sanded grout with sealer, but thinking it might have the same fast set time issues (possibly leading to same problems).

I have seen a lot of good general grout advice on the forum re: letting bags acclimate in a cool room, using cool/cold water, having sponges, water buckets and scour pads ready in advance, mixing bags together if using more than 1 bag, doing small batches at a time.

Having said all things above, I have also seen comments and am sure the FA is a great product. I am just nervous that I might not have the skill level necessary to pull it off…..and might? need something more forgiving?????

SPECIFICALLY LOOKING FOR MAPEI FA ADVICE AND POSSIBLE EASIER ALTERNATIVES.

Again, I know this is a complex, multi faceted question/issue.

I am struggling with this and am wanting to grout floor and niche today. Should have asked question sooner.

Thanks and be safe out there!!!
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Unread 05-11-2021, 01:39 PM   #99
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Just as an FYI, I used the Ultracolor FA for the bathroom floor, shower walls and floor, with 1/16 to 3/16” grout spacing (different areas) and on my kitchen backsplash, and found it to be easy to work with and good color consistency from batch to batch. The only caveats I’d point out are: 1) don’t do too large an area at once, as when it starts to set up, it triggers fast, and 2) use a fairly stiff grout sponge and only mildly moist, so as not to clean too much out from the grout lines when getting the haze off.
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Unread 05-11-2021, 03:05 PM   #100
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Thanks Jeff...Leaning toward using the Ultracolor Plus FA

Thanks Jeff. Been on the internet all morning and I am becoming more comfortable with the Plus FA. You’re opinion and actual experience with the product is a huge help!!!!!!

As you mention, looks like keeping the working area small is key. I am just used to applying grout to my entire project, then going back and starting the wipe down, and finishing up with a final wipe down or 2. I’m just having to change my way of thinking if I want to use one of these more advanced products. I think it will be worth it in the long run.

Good news is I have a small niche (see photo) which i will grout first as a test area. This will give me a little better feel for the set time than the little sample board I did.
Then my floor is a larger version of this same tile.....so I can take it in baby steps as far as bumping up the size of my area.

I did move the bag of grout from the garage to Air Conditioned space this morning to let it acclimate. I have also read that using cool or cold water can actually extend the working time of grout. Someone even suggested adding some ice cubes to the water mixture? Anyone ever gone to these lengths or can speak to these issues?

Thanks again to all who have helped up to this point on my journey.

Stay safe out there!!!
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Unread 05-12-2021, 09:57 AM   #101
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Niche Grouted

Niche grouting was successful. I will say that this grout is definitely less forgiving than what I have worked with in the past.

Letting it sit 15-30 minutes before first wipe down was a little nerve wracking. Thinking I was never going to get the haze off.........and it was harder to wipe off than Custom Polyblend but not terribly.

I intentionally left some grout haze on the edges (That will be covered by inner edge tile border) until this morning. I was able to wipe it off this morning using a damp sponge and a dry cloth with a little pressure.

I might have worked it a little to much with the sponge.....worrying about haze....But overall very happy with the color consistency and the way it came out.

Second photo is totally dry this morning.

Now on to the floor

Stay safe out there!
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Unread 05-12-2021, 07:53 PM   #102
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Floor is Grouted !!!

Forgot how easy grouting a floor was (as opposed to a vertical surface). Grout went on smooth and was easy install.

Again though, with this grout, I did have to wipe more to remove the haze and tend to it longer to make sure the haze was off all tiles. More washing than other grouts I’ve used.

I do like the texture of this grout (it is considered an unsanded grout) and the color consistency so far. I will post if color becomes blotchy once it is fully dry. Niche color is very uniform and grout is good and dry....don’t think it’s going to change.

Pretty happy with how the floor turned out. Being a little OCD, I probably could have done a little better job with the drain......and there are a few minor lippage areas....nothing that will stop water from heading toward the drain...but being it’s the guest shower, it’s staying as-is . The wife loves it, but she is pretty easy to please ????????????

Be safe out there!
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Unread 05-13-2021, 08:34 PM   #103
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Looks nice. I like the color.
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Unread 05-15-2021, 03:46 PM   #104
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Is it OK to butt back wall tile up against side wall?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Davy
Looks nice. I like the color.
Thanks Davy!

Question about the back wall tile. Is it ok to but up on ends to side wall or should I leave a small gap? (which will obviously be covered by side wall tile).

I do know to leave 1/8” grout/caulk gap where side walls meet rear wall.
Thanks and be safe out there!!
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Unread 05-15-2021, 05:23 PM   #105
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Scott, just tell your memory bank that it's never OK to butt your ceramic tile against anything, including other ceramic tile. No ambiguity, there.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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