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Old 11-09-2011, 02:11 PM   #1
PJLX
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Layout Problem

Hi All,
I am installing 12x24 porcelain tiles in my kitchen and have a problem with the layout. I was told you always start at door with a full tile, but I have a 7.5 foot sliding door at one end, the other end has a offset (not directly in line with patio door) 30" doorway leading into the dining room and adjacent to sliding door is a 11' open area that leads to family room.Open floor plan except kitchen to dining room, rest of main floor outside kitchen will be hardwood floor. I layed out tile on floor(dry) ,brick pattern 50% offset starting at patio door and having full (width) tile at entry to family room. My dilemma is the pattern ends at kitchen side of threshold into dining room, leaving me with 5" +/- threshold area to tile to complete pattern. I came up with three ideas 1. Tile across threshold with two peices of tile with a grout line in middle. 2. Continue wood floor thru threshold to meet tile. 3. Continue pattern with small cuts to dining room side of threshold. See pics for better understanding. Thanks PaulName:  Kitchen 001.jpg
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Old 11-09-2011, 02:40 PM   #2
bbcamp
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Option 4: slide the layout toward the patio door so the cuts at both doors will be about the same. It will also help at the toe kick (middle picture) where it looks like you'll have sliver cuts. (Layout rules are meant to be broken, except this one: always make it look good.)

What kind of tiles are those?
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Old 11-09-2011, 03:39 PM   #3
HooKooDoo Ku
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PJLX
I was told you always start at door with a full tile
And that is why you have a layout problem... Sounds like a "lazy man's" approach because you don't have to think about laying out the tile, and you cut the fewest pieces of tile.

In every DIY guide I've ever seen, they have NEVER suggested starting with a full tile along any edge. You've got to be prepared for the fact that your walls are most likely not perfectly square. You don't want to risk having full tile along one wall, and then get to the other wall and be left with just a few inches left to fill with tile. When you do that, you run the risk of the width of the last row of tile being something like 2" on one side, and 1/2" on the other side. That situation just highlights the fact the walls are not square.

The most common instructions I've run across in DIY guides is that you snap a chaulk line down the center of the room (both directions). Start laying out your tile with 4 full pieces where the two lines intersect and work out from there. If your room is square, then like bbcamp points out, your last row of tile on both sides of the room are equal. If the room is a little out of square, you want that last row of tile to be at least 1/2 tile in size. That way when one end of the room has a row that is 8" wide and the other side has a row that is 7" wide, you won't notice the different. If starting at the intersection of the center of the room results in the two outside rows being less than 1/2 width tiles, then you go back to the center line and start the middle of the 1st tile over the center line.

Of course those basic instructions assume you are running a square pattern. You have what is known as a running bond (at least if this were a brick wall, not sure if there is a special name for it in tiling circles).

But as bbcamp points out again, the goal is a layout that avoids rows of small tiles... both because it looks bad, and small tile will highlight a wall that is not square.
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Old 11-09-2011, 05:11 PM   #4
PJLX
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layout problem

Bob thanks for solution makes sense the tile is Florim USA, Quartztech color is beige.
Joeseph thanks for the correct terminology "Running bond".
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Old 11-09-2011, 05:21 PM   #5
bbcamp
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If it is a man-made tile, check them for warping or pillowing. These will create lippage issues if laid on a 50% stagger. The industry requirements for big format tiles like those is a 33% stagger. If yours are OK, set them as you planned.
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