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Unread 11-27-2012, 12:38 AM   #1
freezmcnally
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tile over old paint

Is it true when laying your tile the specs are UNMODIFIED thin set between ditra and tile. if so then don't forget to switch over. i read schluter install instructions and they said you could have curing issues if you use modified.
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Unread 11-27-2012, 12:45 AM   #2
freezmcnally
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tile over old paint

hi guys

i have gutted and am currently redoing a master bath
the majority of the room is and will be new drywall and hardibacker

my wall over the sinks is a 12' high vaulted ceiling. i pulled the mirror off of it. some of it is torn paper. some painted. i scraped some of it and other parts seem in tact. its possible that there is a layer of wallpaper under there somewhere. is it ok to use some flexbond with mosaic tile directly on this...i REALLY dont want to have to redo this whole wall as well.
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Unread 11-27-2012, 12:56 AM   #3
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Full Body Porcelain

hi gentlemen,

I will be tiling most of the bathroom very soon.
shower and tub area is on a 6" high 'stage' on top of existing 5/8" subfloor.
stage is 12" centers glued/screwed with advantech 3/4" floor (2 layers on sloping shower floor) shower floor is proline quick slope (honeycomb filled with thin set)
this will all get a treatment of noble ts waterproof membrane.

stage area is 5'x14'
rest of the floor (on the original 5/8 subfloor) will get ditra.
remaining floor area 9'x14'

question: what is the minimum grout line i can get away with. i prefer smallest possible? most likely using a happy floor product. large format.
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Unread 11-27-2012, 03:03 AM   #4
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If I were planning to tile over it, I would take down the damaged sheetrock and replace it with new. Not only would it save you a lot of prep work, it would give you a nice, flat, clean surface to tile over, something you'll want when using mosaics.
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Unread 11-27-2012, 05:18 AM   #5
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Freez, we prefer that you keep all questions about this bathroom project on one thread. A lot of what you will do will depend on what you have done, so having the entire project history in one thread will make that easier for our band of volunteers to help you. When you move on to another project, start a new thread. We can change the thread title to something more generic if you want.

Kevin answered your wall prep question. I concur.

The minimum grout line depends on a number of factors, the chief being the dimensional accuracy of the tiles you are working with:

The grout line must be at least 3 times the difference in the size of the tiles. The easy way to check that is to pull a few at random from all the boxes and stack them on edge like playing cards. Lay a straight edge on top and measure the biggest gap you can find between it and all the edges of the tile. Multiply that gap by three, and that's the recommended grout line width. There is a 1/16" minimum necessary for the grout to adhere, so if that gap is zero, the minimum is 1/16".

The other factors include the flatness of the tiles and the surface you are tiling. Wavey tiles and un-flat surfaces need wider groutlines to mask the resulting lippage.

To check the tiles, place 2 tiles back to back and measure the gaps at the corners, and on big tiles, the gap at the middles of each side. This gap will be lippage when the tiles are set, so a wider line is needed.

The wall or floor needs to be flat to within 1/4" in any 10 foot direction and 1/16" in any 1 foot direction. Measure with a long straight edge. Correct the flatness before starting to tile.

Please tell us what a "happy floor product. large format" is. New term for me, and I want to be on the same page as you.
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Unread 11-27-2012, 05:21 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Freez
Is it true when laying your tile the specs are UNMODIFIED thin set between ditra and tile. if so then don't forget to switch over. i read schluter install instructions and they said you could have curing issues if you use modified.
I can't argue with Schluter. Ditra is his product, he's done the testing, and he's providing the warranty. You do it any other way, you're on your own.
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Unread 01-16-2013, 04:22 PM   #7
freezmcnally
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caulk around linear drain or leave open?

apologies if this has been covered but a search did not uncover an answer.
i have completed my shower area with porcelain tile 20x20 and a linear drain from noble. all looks great. i called the rep from noble and he said to leave the gap open between the tile and linear drain....HOWEVER, you can see into the gap a bit and the blue from the noble seal shows very slightly....also when the water cascaded down the tile, it goes behind and below the strainer, not actually onto it. it looks fine but i feel it could look more polished with a bead of caulk.
anyone do this in the past or any repercussions from doing so?



thanks
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Unread 01-16-2013, 05:23 PM   #8
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I typed "noble drain" into the Advanced Search feature, Freez, and found a good bit of discussion about the lineal drain. Didn't go though the comments to see if your question was covered.

I don't know if Noble was telling you it was not acceptable to caulk that joint or if they were telling you it wasn't necessary to caulk that joint.

If it's the joint between drain body and tile, it's customary to grout those, but caulking would generally be acceptable also. But if Noble really wants it left open, I'd leave it open.

We usta have our very own Noble rep on here who could answer that in a heartbeat, but his bosses now don't allow him participate. I'd suggest you call them again and clarify the issue if it's bothering you.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 01-16-2013, 06:13 PM   #9
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what harm could be caused by caulking or even grouting that joint? i can see it filling up with all sorts of scum and other items if left unfilled. it's going to get filled one way or another
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Unread 01-16-2013, 08:08 PM   #10
freezmcnally
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i know. i have read so much on here my eyes get blurry. i just could not find (or missed) anything on specifically caulking around the stainless steel strainer grill.....NOT the drain itself, the whole project is complete so i am now just doing the finishing touches on changes of plane and gaps.

so to clarify it was caulking the gap between the stainless grate (strainer) that covers the hole for the drain.
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Unread 01-16-2013, 09:12 PM   #11
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You want to be able to remove the grille for cleaning, so no, don't caulk or grout the grille into place.
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Unread 01-16-2013, 10:11 PM   #12
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I didn't understand that to be what you were talking about either, Freez. I would not recommend caulking that joint.
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