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Unread 04-28-2021, 10:33 PM   #16
Cher69newbie
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Wink Getting closer

I have the 3/4 t&g plywood here. Mostly because they were totally out of the 1/2 inch.i will check it before plywood goes down. I have checked like 6 times for level mostly because I can see it is not flat. I even used 1 of my really old wood levels no one may touch and I mostly don't except for cleaning, because I couldn't believe it. Also wanted to check the monster wasn't affecting anything. Yes we measured and everything was good. Just my measure 20 times then cut kicking in. Whenever I do something new, I constantly check myself .
Thanks for your advice guys
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Unread 05-30-2021, 11:30 AM   #17
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Done!! Black tar gone from floor. We decided to replace drywall from 38 inches down to floor. Too much crumbling. That is where the tile on walls will be placed. Putting boxes off floor into basement, the put them on the bathroom floor. I think people just see the shower and figure no one will see. A friend coming to move pipes that idiot plumbers put in, can't move shower all the way back.
Why does it say wait with new drywall??? I've tried looking here and google. Have not found an answer.

I know it's wasted effort most likely, but I have a few days before the junction boxes and pipes will be gone. I have filled any divots or holes left after got tar off. Sanded and washed floor
Will clean floor again just before ply goes down. I have been know to tell the floor you need to be flat. Lol
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Last edited by Cher69newbie; 05-30-2021 at 11:36 AM.
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Unread 05-31-2021, 07:53 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cherie
Why does it say wait with new drywall???
Not sure what you mean there, Cherie, care to elaborate?
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Unread 05-31-2021, 11:55 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan
Not sure what you mean there, Cherie, care to elaborate?
Various articles stated, when putting up fresh drywall you should wait like 3 weeks before tiling. I just wondered why you need to wait.
Thinking of replacing all the drywall 38 inches up from floor. Some is missing where the old tub surround was located and a few have crumbled at the bottom.
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Unread 05-31-2021, 11:59 AM   #20
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I've been cleaning off the old glue from the wallboard panels they had put up in the bathroom which covered the bottom half of the walls.
Definitely doing so behind and the left and right where the shower will be, putting up wallpaper on back and 3 feet on each side. Forward from there will be tiled on bottom and painted on upper half
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Unread 05-31-2021, 12:19 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cher69newbie
...Various articles stated, when putting up fresh drywall you should wait like 3 weeks before tiling. I just wondered why you need to wait.
Never heard of such a waiting period.

If the new drywall is to receive tile, I would avoid using drywall compound under those areas.

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Unread 05-31-2021, 05:34 PM   #22
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Thanks, I could not find a reason for anyone stating that, but kept running into when looking things up.
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Unread 05-31-2021, 05:39 PM   #23
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How do you make the floor flat? I have filled in divots and other imperfections. I have a few spots where the subfloor adjacent board is up a little bit from the 1 next to it. Will the plywood take care of those? I have sanded so there aren't any huge bump ups
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Unread 05-31-2021, 11:43 PM   #24
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How do you make your particular floor flat? Your options are available or limited based on, among other things, how bad the floor is and what type of construction you’re starting with. And the answer to your question may evolve based on additional info being communicated we don’t already know from you. Can you give us an idea of how far “out of flat” it is? And I don’t just mean in one direction, I mean in both axis for the whole floor.

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Unread 06-06-2021, 09:37 PM   #25
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Exclamation

Quote:
Originally Posted by ToolGuy-Kg
Can you give us an idea of how far “out of flat” it is? And I don’t just mean in one direction, I mean in both axis for the whole floor.
I guess I just don't really have a grasp of the difference between flat and level. Also when the floor is good as is it something needs corrected before plywood goes down. Okay they are upside down. Idk how that happened.
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Unread 06-06-2021, 10:50 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cher69newbie
I guess I just don't really have a grasp of the difference between flat and level.
Flat is a sheet of glass is...even if it’s sloped.

Level is a glass tabletop that is set so perfectly that marbles placed on top of them don’t roll off to one side by themselves.

When preparing a floor, you want to at least get it flat. If you can get it level, all the more power to you, but usually isn’t necessary or noticeable if it’s not.

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Unread 06-06-2021, 11:10 PM   #27
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'll be in there sanding and filling then cause I can feel uneven bumps. Nothing drastic and I told myself I wasn't doing woodworking so it didn't need to be that smooth. I was almost cringing stopping with such coarse grit sanding and not going to at least 220 grit. Never let a woodworker near a floor. Lol
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Unread 06-06-2021, 11:16 PM   #28
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You want to be able to drag a long straightedge around on the floor in every which direction with minimal air gaps under the straightedge.

If you were to drag a 10’ long straightedge around the floor in every which direction, how large would the largest air gap be?

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Unread 06-07-2021, 07:13 AM   #29
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Let's pretend your floor is a cabinet face or a table, you wouldn't want a big ass dip or bump in it. Let's hit that floor with whatever grit gets her in plane
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Unread 06-07-2021, 10:18 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tool Guy-Kg
If you were to drag a 10’ long straightedge around the floor in every which direction, how large would the largest air gap be?
I will try that with maybe a smaller straight edge. The room is only about 6x10.
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