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Unread 02-13-2018, 09:02 PM   #1
Rexiepo
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Shower Tile to Outside Corner with Wood Paneling over Drywall

Hi! I’m DIYing a bathroom remodel and have appreciated the huge wealth of knowledge contained in this forum. I have a question that I haven’t been able to find the answer too.

The shower’s right wall has the shower valve and head. I’m putting Kerdi-Board on the wall - with bullnose 3x6 subway tile at the end. It will share a 90 degrees outside corner with drywall on the other side of that corner. We will put us wainscoting (5/8” thick) on the dry area of the bottom including that dry walled outside corner.

How should I go about running the tile up to that corner and transitioning it with the added wainscoting thickness?

If I bullnose to the edge I imagine the last 5/8” of that tile wouldn’t sit well on the butt end of the wainscoting/wood, right? If I can’t put thinset on that wood end and tile it then what do I do?

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Unread 02-14-2018, 05:05 PM   #2
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Updating with a new pic now that I put drywall up on that return wall. The wood is a sample laying around - so slightly thicker than the wood we'll put up on that drywall. So how to address the corner - with bullnose subway tile coming out to the corner...set it just to the drywall and do something about the butt end of the wood? or set it to cover that wood end?

Thanks!
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Unread 02-14-2018, 06:27 PM   #3
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Rex, the corner transition seems to vex a lot of folks.

I'd use J or L drywall corner and finish like drawing. If you hold back the bullnose a little, discrepancies in non-plumb wall will be less obvious. Looks like you'd have a regular corner bead opposite.

On the wainscoting, I'd terminate shy of the actual corner. This could be done with top molding returned to floor or some custom piece that the cap and wainscoting die into. I've made different things for different situations. There's often more than one place to transition in any given room.

You're wise to think about it now rather than press on and hope for magic wand later.

I dug around and found a photo for reference. Not quite the same in that I used Rondec, but you get the idea.
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Unread 02-14-2018, 08:39 PM   #4
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Thanks! So follow up question would you thin set under the bull nose edge of the tile (that portion of the tile that is not sitting on the backer)?
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Unread 02-14-2018, 10:25 PM   #5
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Yes I would. Depending on overlap of tile onto J metal, I might even run some mesh tape under there. Tying things together is almost never a bad idea.
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Unread 02-20-2018, 09:20 AM   #6
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Kerdi Band and Patches on Kerdi Board - Effect on 3x6 Subway Tiles?

Finally finished Kerdi-ing my shower, and just started the water test last night. As I was patching up all of the seams and screws, I kept thinking to myself that I should have just applied Kerdi membrane to the whole thing even though I had used Kerdi Board!

When I ran out of my roll of Kerdi Band, I just cut out Kerdi for the rest. I know the Kerdi membrane is 2x the thickness of the Band...does anyone have any thoughts as to whether this potential unevenness will impact 3x6 subway tiles? Will I encounter problems laying the tiles?

I imagine this wouldn't be a problem if I were to use larger format tiles - but 3x6?

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Unread 02-20-2018, 04:23 PM   #7
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Even with the thicker Kerdi membrane....shouldn't be a problem. "Flash" any suspect areas with thinset....
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Unread 02-20-2018, 10:53 PM   #8
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Welcome, Rex.

Please keep all your project questions on one thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered. We can give it a more generic title any time you'd like to suggest one.

Tiling over the height difference of a single layer of properly installed Kerdi shouldn't be a problem if you're Doing your installation correctly. The industry standard minimum thickness of thinset mortar under your tiles when set is 3/32nds of an inch. You might need to fudge that a little to keep your lippage to a minimum, but you shouldn't have any trouble with those subway tile.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 02-27-2018, 08:50 PM   #9
Rexiepo
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Thanks, CX. Any way I can rename my thread now that I know I should keep all relevant posts in one thread?

New question, same bathroom remodel.

About to start tiling the shower. Going with 3x6 subway tile, planning to do the running bond. The center of the back wall is 23.5” from either side wall. The wall niche (Kerdi premade) just happens to be closer to one wall by a couple inches. Is it ok to move he center line over by a couple inches so the grout line would coincide with the vertical niches edges? Is that an appropriate layout or would it not look aesthetically pleasing because it’d look off center (the center line doesn’t divide he wall evenly)?
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Unread 02-27-2018, 09:06 PM   #10
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Depends on the size of the niche and how the edges of the tiles line up and what you find aesthetically pleasing. I had some similar concerns about how my floor tiles would lay out and made a computer scaled floor plan and a same scale layout of the tiles (don’t forget to account for grout spaces) and shifted the tile graphic over the floor layout until I found a placement that I liked and didn’t wind up with slivers at the margins. Once you start laying tile into thinset, there’s a very short window of opportunity to change your mind.
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Unread 02-27-2018, 09:14 PM   #11
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Thanks! It’s a 12x12 niche so two horizontal subway tiles fit. But as I was laying out the tiles on the floor I realized that when it comes to grout lines and the niche edges, the horizontal lines will matter more than the vertical lines. Now I’m trying to figure out how to avoid the slivers in the corner...do you save the cut pieces for that corner? Or cut a new tile when you do the side walls?
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Unread 02-27-2018, 09:57 PM   #12
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New question regarding 3x6 subway tiles...I’m doing 3x6 subway tiles - each short end has one lug in the middle. When you butt them together it seems like the vertical seams are slighter bigger than the horizontal seams because the two lugs touch. Is that right? so vertical seams between subway tiles are closer to 1/8” while the horizontal seams are 1/16” because the lugs are offset?
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Unread 02-27-2018, 10:06 PM   #13
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Probably not the case, but do the lugs line up if you flip the tile end-to-end, i.e., 180-degrees?
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Unread 03-01-2018, 12:17 PM   #14
Rexiepo
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ok - figured it out. The lugs on the side/vertical, when butted together make a 1/16" grout line. When offsetting the subway tiles, the lugs on the top and bottom (horizontal edges) don't butt up to the neighboring tiles - which indicates to me that I'll need 1/16 spacers on the horizontals...

Question regarding hex tile sheets - which we'll do for the bathroom floor. Should I be eyeballing each sheet as they're placed next to each other? Or should I try and use tile spacers to ensure the sheets are the right distance apart?
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Unread 03-01-2018, 05:57 PM   #15
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The consistency of how tile are set onto their backing can vary a lot based on the design, the tile, and the manufacturer...if they are really consistent, most people just eyeball it. If they are not, sometimes, you have to cut out the offending tile that is out of place, and set it individually. When the pattern is not a rectangle, exactly how you place them can make a huge difference. The goal is to not be able to identify where one sheet ends and the other starts. If they're placed well on their backing, that's fairly easy. If they're not, it may be impossible!
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