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Unread 12-31-2013, 12:12 PM   #1
gerry_foster
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schluter line drain advice

Good day all,

I am starting construction on my basement bathroom.
Our house is built on solid rock so doing a traditional method of waste removal is out of the question.

I have got all the parts now to construct the bathroom, however I need some advice on one part.

Here is what I have.

Saniflow snaishower pump
Schulter line horizontal drain system (imported from the UK)
Kerdi 55"x55" pre sloped pan from Canada


So the UK version of the pre sloped pan was very large and fragile so I did not want to chance importing it as well. The only difference is that there is a 2" thick spacer to go under the pan to make up the height difference form the Canada/us vertical drain vs the UK horizontal.

So my question is......can I just use 2" eps sheeting from the home store and mortor down before the pan like the UK instructions show? I'm not sure if the eps Schulter uses is somehow different for it to bond with thinset?

Any advice would be great

The pics attached show the pan and drain, and the uk instruction page

Please note the walls are still just sprayed foamed and will be studded and Kerdi board attached.
Attached Images
  
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Unread 12-31-2013, 12:13 PM   #2
Lakee911
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Perhaps put some deck mud under it and bond it with thinset?
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Unread 12-31-2013, 12:16 PM   #3
gerry_foster
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Thanks Lake.....this was my original thought......as I'm worried about compression overtime of the eps.
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Unread 12-31-2013, 12:27 PM   #4
eurob
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Usually the drain goes near the wall and the height of the drain is where you cut the Schluter foam sloped pan .

If you need a 2'' thick to properly connect the drain -- do you ? --, why you don't do a mud sloped bed to accommodate the drain height ?
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Unread 12-31-2013, 01:03 PM   #5
gerry_foster
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Thanks eurob.

http://www.schluter.co.uk/produkt.as...g=verarbeitung

The pic at the start of this link shows a good exploded view of the system. I do not have the 2" none sloped spacer. This is what I am looking for help with.

Cheers
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Unread 12-31-2013, 01:21 PM   #6
jadnashua
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Have you tried calling Schluter in Canada?

I do not know the density of the foam Schluter uses, but compared to some, it is fairly dense. They do not, to my knowledge (verify with a call) have any special coating on it to help with mortar adhesion like Wedi (which also helps their panel with vapor transmission). The crystalline structure of mortar grows into and bonds with foam quite well.

When covered with a sufficiently sized tile and mortar and the membrane, Schluter says the compressive strength of the assembly is 500#/sqin.
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Unread 12-31-2013, 01:28 PM   #7
gerry_foster
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Thanks Jad. Glad to hear that thinset will bond properly to foam....I assumed as much but I'm no expert. I've talked to Schluter a few times now and there have not been much help......especially trying to bring in a uk product. Had import the drain myself from Scotland. I'll give them a shout again
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Unread 12-31-2013, 02:05 PM   #8
eurob
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I see now where you get the reference of the '' sandwich '' .

If the necessary build up is 2'' + the sloped pan , K-board may do the trick . Make sure you get the Schluter's approval to install the board under the foam pan .

On the other hand , mud bed can easily raise the floor -- 2'' thick build up -- if this is the only issue . But doing so , I would consider doing a mud bed for the entire shower without using the foam tray .
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Last edited by eurob; 12-31-2013 at 02:12 PM.
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Unread 12-31-2013, 04:43 PM   #9
JustBecause
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Gerry -

I am in the middle of a kerdiline drain too. Having fretted over mudding and looking into all the trays (for months), I finally settled on the mud. Just my 2c - it is easier than I thought.
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Unread 12-31-2013, 04:55 PM   #10
gerry_foster
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That's good to know. I have the pre sloped pan already....however that. Doesn't mean I have to use it.....
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Unread 01-01-2014, 11:28 AM   #11
gerry_foster
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slc selection question after reading SLC article

Happy new years guys and gals!

Need to slc my 10x10 basement floor bath......read the article and learned alot.....

However, to do a 100 sq Ft area, do I need to order in ES or can I get away with RS?

My floor has just been prepared with a 10" diamond plate grinder to get 2 layers of paint off and knock down the high spots. Still need a good 1/2-3/4 thickness to correct a bad taper and low spots.

I have no problem sp ordering in ES if it will be easier and better in the long run...

Cheers. Gerry
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Unread 01-01-2014, 11:40 AM   #12
Richard Tunison
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Just say NO to RS. It goes off way to quick for my liking.
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Unread 01-01-2014, 12:05 PM   #13
Davy
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Yep, what Richard said. RS stands for Rapid set and there is no time for coffee breaks. Although, it is handy when I need to climb back on it to apply a second coat.

Slower setting SLC suits me better these days.
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Unread 01-01-2014, 12:55 PM   #14
gerry_foster
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Okay great thanks for the advice.

So I just fired up the laser to shoot the floor. Looks like I'm in need of 1 1\4" in one corner to bring it up perfect. Is this too thick for one pour? The center of the floor is 1/2-3/4". Room is almost perfect east to west, but very bad north to south.
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Unread 01-01-2014, 01:33 PM   #15
Davy
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The RS and ES can be poured to 1 inch thick with each application. Be sure and use the primer first and dam up anywhere that you don't want it to run.
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