Master Bath Remodel

[STINGER450]

OK, so I research a tile saw for my MB remodel. I need a larger one than the entry level RIDGID I own now. Tiles are 12"X24". I narrow it down to a RUBI and another RIDGID Model #R4030S. So I went with the RIDGID after watching some Master Tilers online.

Here's my question...am I being too picky in my tolerance for percision? The RUBI just had too much slop in the slide table, the RIDGID a little less. When I use my square the table is about 1/8" to 3/16" from beginning of the table slide to the 24" mark. Figuring I can make things better I slotted the holes in the slide and repositioned it but I can only get it to about 3/64" from blade to being parallel with the square at full travel. Move it any more and assy. bolts start getting in the way.

So do any of you folks try to get your saw blade absolutely square to the table? I mean the table rollers are sloppy as it is so even if I could get it to perfect the table is still very wobbly. Any thoughts? I can't take this saw back now since I modified it. And why could"t they make those rails 3" longer??? Every saw I looked at the table drops the back set of rollers off the rails and creates even more misalignment?

[rmckee84]

Typically there is enough adjustment to get a saw close to perfectly square as far and table and blade. I dont have any experience with your particular saw so I can really speak to how perfect yours will get. Can you post a couple pics to give us all an idea of how its built. Maybe someone else will have some input.

I have the 7" lackmond beast and it will cut within 1/16" over 24". I had to dial it in when I got it but I haven't messed with the rails in the year I've had it.

[STINGER450]

like your signature! I have a few options left. I did order another rail and I will add rail extensions to the existing rails. Also I will remove the rollers and shim to restrict wobble. Then I will shift both rails to the right so the table clears the bolts and realign from scratch. This means the blade will run close to the table groove wall on the left. Damn Chinese!

[Tool Guy - Kg]

Sorry, but it's not the Chinese. They build whatever their customer holds them to.

Realize that this saw was built to be the most economical it could be for a segment of the market that wants many of the conveniences of a wetsaw without the full pricetag. For example, I've owned a number of MK770 saws. They are what most pros would consider to be a professional quality 7" saw. It is build much more stout than all the plastic parts I'm seeing in the pictures. It's not the top of the line saw in this category with a heavy motor or anything. But costs about 3 times more than what you paid.

Since you've modified it and can't take it back, I'd consider reaching out to a factory rep that may be able to assist you with the alignment problem.

[STINGER450]

Well maybe, but it’s just not cost effective to pay $1k for a saw one may use one time! So I guess It is what it is. I don’t believe the techs will have any greater insight than I have (hasn’t been my experience with the “professionals” in the past anyway). I spend my entire retirement fixing their work as I did when I was working. Thanks for your response, i’ll get it to cut straight one way or another!

[Tool Guy - Kg]

I'm not talking about techs that sit behind a desk and read pre-written responses. I'm talking about getting in touch with a traveling rep of the product.

[STINGER450]

So I began chipping away at the shower floor mosaic to begin my Master Bath Remodel. The 5/8" square mosaic tiles just peeled right up because of the moisture issues. But what do I find under the mosaics but another layer of the same 4" square faux slate tiles that are on the wall. Surprising, as they wouldn't allow for good drainage being so rough textured.

When I began I thought there was no drain installed because the homeowner had used RTV to place a drain "cover" on top of the mosaic tiles. So now I have completed chipping the 4" tiles from the floor, lo-and-behold there is a drain installed. They just covered it with the mosaics. Here's the dilemma......

Now I know there is a motar bed whith a drain installed. But the mortar bed is not a good consistent taper to the drain. It has low spots and divots in it, so new tile will only look and perform just as bad. I was thinking about leveling up the bed and starting a new floor using a Kerdi-Pan. But obviously the drain would have to be raised and I wondered if a new drain would just fit inside the old one if cut off?

My questions are;
1) Can this "drain" be cut off flush and replaced with a new one? (Probably cemented - ABS)
2) Do I have to cut away the motar bed and go down into my cement floor to access the original stub?
3) Does the entire mortar bed have to be taken up? (Please tell me there are alternatives!) I would still have the same drain problem.

[Carbidetooth]

1. No
2. Ideally yes
3. It's some work but if you want a result that's better than it seems was there, you should really replace the drain.

Schluter makes a retrofit drain that fits into clamping drain like I'm assuming you have. Might work but I'd encourage you to consider a waterproofing SYSTEM and stick with it. You need a flat and mostly level surface to install a foam shower base regardless of manufacturer.

Sounds like a sketchy foundation on which to build a good shower. Photos might tell us more.

[STINGER450]

I just knew someone would say chip out that mortar bed! But I am accustomed to doing stuff correctly, so if thats what it takes.....

Next question. What's the easiest way to chip it out? cut down to subfloor with diamond saw and chip in the cut marks to hopefully break away large chunks? Then I still have the same issue with the drain...just more drain is exposed for me to cut off.

[Kman]

Stinger, let's keep all questions related to this project on this thread so that questions and answers aren't duplicated, and the history is in one place. And please add a first name to your permanent signature line so we know what to call you. It doesn't have to be your real name, you can use a pseudonym.