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Unread 11-04-2019, 01:31 PM   #16
Carbidetooth
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If Mapei is what's available, I've used their Adesilex. They're all bright white so they lend as little as possible to installed color. If the glass is pretty opaque, it doesn't' matter all that much and you can use the same there as field, although I'd want modified mortar. Slide a sheet of paper behind to get a preview.

I doubt anyone would even notice that bottom course being dropped 3/4". Many tubs aren't level or even in plane with themselves, so minor adjustments are often made here. I try to make that tub to tile transition clean and crisp so there's no goobery beads of caulk to uglify things.
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Unread 11-07-2019, 06:28 PM   #17
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OK people, I maybe having a brain fart here, but I getting ready to install the durock around the alcove. If I install it as recommended, the durock extends over the tile flanges on the tub. But, if I do that then the durock will have a 1/4" - 3/8" "bulge" where the flanges extend out from the 2x4s. Normally do you shim out the wall? Or I am I being too picky? Thanks again.
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Unread 11-07-2019, 06:36 PM   #18
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You're not being too picky at all, Art. Your wallboards must be flat and plumb. If your framing does not provide that, you must correct the situation. If you want your wallboard to fall on the drain side of your tub's tiling flange (best practice), you can fur out your stud faces to provide the necessary clearance.

My preference for such furring is to use rips of plywood as they do not tend to split when fastened through.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 11-08-2019, 06:48 AM   #19
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Not to beat a dead horse, but as i think about this more and more, so where the furred out tiled walls meet the the regular non-tiled drywall walls (its an alcove tub/shower) the Schluter edging would take care of the extra "thickness"? By the time I fur out, add the durock, thinset, and tile I'll be a little over an inch from the existing studs. This would mean the Schluter would attached to the drywall - not the durock? Obviously I'm having trouble visualizing this transition. Help! Thanks.
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Unread 11-08-2019, 09:14 AM   #20
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Art, if I understand your predicament you have a wall where the vertical edge of the Durock CB will meet/butt against a vertical edge of your drywall. But if you shim the Durock so that it's bottom horizontal edge clears the flange of the tub then the Durock and drywall are no longer in the same plane at their vertical edge by whatever thickness of shims you use.

The Schluter trim size is selected based on how thick the tile is, so that it covers the unfinished tile edge. It therefore must be set on the Durock, and you'll therefore still have the difference between the Durock and DW to deal with.

If that difference ends up being, oh, 1/16th" to 1/8" some might suggest just taping and slathering on a layer of drywall compound and feathering it out away from the vertical joint, and bringing your tile edge to just beyond that joint. That'll probably look fine but may cause a little bit of a challenge with baseboard.
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Unread 11-08-2019, 10:05 AM   #21
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You are spot on with my predicament. To compound matters, about 3" from where the tile and drywall meet is a window so I don't have much room to feather.

In addition I will have to shim out the DW by 1/4" to 3/8" to clear the tub flange so that seems like quite a gap to feather over 3" or so. The flange is so thick because the tub is sprayed with insulation to retain heat and reduce noise. The tub is set so I don't think their is anything I can do about the thickness now. Thanks.
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Unread 11-08-2019, 10:12 AM   #22
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Art, there are ways to set your wallboard such that they stop just above the tub's tiling flange and still properly waterproof the joint. That may alleviate some of your wall plane problems while still providing adequate waterproofing in your shower.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 11-10-2019, 08:24 PM   #23
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Slightly different topic and maybe I am doing too much reading and research but....on the Family Handyman site it says to install Durock rough side out if using thinset and smooth side out if using mastic. I haven't seen this anywhere else. Any truth to this? Thanks as always.
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Unread 11-10-2019, 08:39 PM   #24
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I know at least one CBU manufacturer usta say that, but I don't even recall which brand that was. You can certainly do yours that way, but the thinset mortar will adhere quite well to either face of Durock so long as you wipe it down with a damp sponge before tiling.

You won't be using any organic adhesive (mastic) in your shower and neither should your Family Handyman.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 11-13-2019, 09:07 AM   #25
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Another clarifying question on Schluter trim. Looking at installing outside corner trim (Jolly) and inside corner trim (Dilex AHK). The trim description says for tile 3/8" thick. My tile is 1/4" thick. I have not been able to locate any thinner trim.

Will the 3/8" trim work without having a lip? I assume by building up with thinset when installing the tile?

Lastly, I'd like to frame the outside edges of the niche in Schluter trim. I cannot locate a profile that would work in this application other than Jolly. Is that what is typically used?

Thanks a bunch.
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Unread 11-13-2019, 06:22 PM   #26
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Art, it looks like Dilex AHK can be had as small as 5/16. 1/4" is really skinny tile. If that's measuring at the edge sometimes the lugs on back actually make the tile install "thicker". Any such thing on the tile you have?

Rondec and Quadec are my go-to for niches. Looks symmetrical to my eye. The premade corners may seem like an easier plan, but I miter all trim because I think it looks cleaner.

https://sccpublic.s3-external-1.amaz....pdf#dilex-ahk
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Unread 11-14-2019, 08:41 AM   #27
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Thanks Carbide for the response. The 1/4" was taken from the edge - I don't have calipers nor any cut tile yet to measure any other way. I guess it could be 5/16 in the middle? I doubt it would grow to 3/8"?

I do like the Quadec profile for the niche - much better than Jolly.

Trying to avoid the inside corner caulk job so thought the Dilex would do the trick. Not the cheapest option - thats for sure!
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Unread 11-17-2019, 07:22 AM   #28
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Slow but steady progress on the alcove project. Getting ready to tape and mud the seams and otherwise prep for setting tile and of course have a "few" questions.

1) How critical is it to use unmodified mortar to do the seams and corners? I have plenty of modified mortar and would like to use it instead if it wouldn't hurt.

2) I bought a roll of waterproofing membrane 5" width for the tub flange to CBU transition. Why is it I have never seen it recommended to use membranes to seal inside corners in an alcove tub?

3) I am using a Durock niche (see pic). The install directions says to attached to wall with adhesive. When I look at the back of the niche it has a grid pattern to it which to me suggests not a good bonding surface. I also note in each corner on the back are what looks to be holes for screws. Thoughts?

4) I am thinking it would be easier to tile the back wall of the niche before installing. Good idea?

5) Lastly, USG recommends one to waterproof the niche to CBU transition by installing membrane tape from the inside of the niche out and over the seam in rows. Seems like a strange method to me. I was planning on just putting the membrane over the face of the seam - not the inside of the niche as well. Inside the niche is already water tight - what purpose would the membrane serve in there?

Thanks again for all the help!
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Unread 11-17-2019, 08:38 AM   #29
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1. Modified would be fine for taping seams and corners. Check the date on bag if you've had it for a while. Thinset has a shelf life. What method of waterproofing are you using?

2. It may have originated here. Many recommended methods rely on a bead of caulk or coat of waterproofing or wing and prayer. None of which I'd consider bulletproof.

3.Don't know which wall they might be referring to, but I don't like the idea of attaching to opposite side back of drywall. Seems an invitation to failure. Assuming it has some framing to bear on, I'd probably drill the corner and countersink front for screw then cover with membrane. Doesn't have to be huge. #6 or #8 would do just fine. Technically the waffles would give more bonding surface.

4. What would that save you? You've got to tile it both ways, why inject a wildcard?

5. Never used this niche, don't know their reasoning, but would be curious to find out. Might be that they want more overlap than perimeter lip provides. Kerdi likes 2" FWIW.

Measure tile by plopping on flat surface, sticking straight edge on tile surface and measure between the two.
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Unread 11-17-2019, 03:15 PM   #30
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Thanks Peter for the responses.

1) The thinset was just purchased, but since I don't do this for a living was trying not to waste since I plan to use modified for the tile. I cannot find thinset in any less than 50# bags - can't imagine seams etc taking more than 10#. After seams and tub transition I plan to use aquadefense to waterproof.

2) At a minimum I was going to tape and thinset the inside corners but then thought maybe the membrane (5" roll) creased would be better.

3) As far as I can tell the niche would be adhensived to the framing but again, it doesn't seem that secure since there's not much surface area on the back of the niche.

4) Was thinking it would easier to work horizonally vs vertically. But wasn't 100%.

5) Think I'll just stick with original plan to seal the seam from the outside of the niche.

While I have you, I want to install a wire soap dish in the corner as opposed to ceramic or other solid materials but have yet to find one. Ever seen one?

Thanks a ton for all the help.
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