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Unread 04-27-2012, 06:13 AM   #1
egk109
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Drop in tub in an Alcove installation

I am installing a drop in tub in an alcove. I will be using a field installed tile flange. When I set the tub in place I have about a half inch between the edge of the tub and the studs on all of the walls. So when I put the tile flange on and have it glued snug against the tub the backer board will be sitting behind the tile flange. Is it alright if the backer board is behind the tile flange and then the tile sits over top of the flange. I was then going to Red Guard over the backer and tile flange and then tile over it. Or my other option is to glue on the tile flange at an angle and then angle the backer board so that it fits over top of the tile flange. I am hesitant about doing it this way because I don't feel that the tile flange and tub will have as good of a seal since it will not be fitting snug against the corner. Also any recommendations on what I should use to glue the tile flange to the tub, I was just going to use construction adhesive. Will that work well or should I use something else.
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Unread 04-27-2012, 06:33 AM   #2
tileguytodd
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NO...You should shim out your studs. The flange is designed so the backer board goes over the lip but without shimming you will get a winging out near the tub...Some people float this to ease that little bit but this takes longer with dry time etc..Best to just shim with 1/8 Material and either use 5/8" rock for the rest of the bathroom or shim all the studs the same....be sure to check electrical boxes etc to make sure you will be OK...Generally you canuse 1/2 on your entry door wall using only the 5/8" where it will meet up with the shimmed CBU.

If you already have 1/2 " sheetrock for the rest of the bathroom, Shimming would be best..

REASON FOR FLANGE PLACING: If moisture gets through grout etc , gravity will cause it to run down the tile/board etc...with the Board inside the flange, the moisture ends up back in the tub area IF you allow for drainage. This means not caulking spots or leaving drainage seep area's......Mostly this is not needed if you are not in really cold country where condensation is more likely from HOT SHOWER WATER meeting COLD AIR Behind Board..Even this takes alot of Long Showers to have it amount to enough where drainage is required.

If you have 1 shower and 4 people including 2 teenage girls, And you are in COLD Country, drainage is a must...

Allowing Moisture to drain behind the flange could cause ROT underneath the tub area where you would never see it....if it got really bad it might damage ceiling underneath..if it was not this bad it would simply rot the subfloor, cause Mildew and Mold and stink that you cant find......etc.

Water is the great destroyer, it Must be controlled!!!

Always towel down a shower after use...especially if that shower is on an outside wall and it is winter time....this not only helps keep a tile job looking new longer, but it helps with controlling condensation and moisture finding its way through the installation.....
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Unread 04-27-2012, 09:44 AM   #3
egk109
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I have the room torn down to the studs. Since I have a 1/2"gap all the way around the tub I guess the easiest solution is to use 1/2" furring strips on all of the studs. Any recommendations on attaching the tile flange to the tub? Will standard construction adhesive work fine? Also I am not sure if I should install a vapor barrier behind the hardie baker or not. I am reading mixed opinions on this. I was going to put a paint on waterproof membrane like Red Guard over the entire backer board, if I do this do I still need the vapor barrier. Also what should I use for vapor barrier if I need it, I see some saying to use roofing felt and others poly.
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