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Unread 03-24-2020, 08:10 PM   #16
Kman
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I thought non-pressure would be for drains. But I wouldn't pressure test a drain line up to 180 lbs., Not even a quarter of that.

If I remember correctly, just 7-8 pounds is enough to blow a loose rubber cap off, and knock your hat off your head, if you stand in just the right wrong place
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Unread 03-25-2020, 09:52 PM   #17
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ABS to PVC transitions are supposed to occur through the use of a fitting or adapter. A Fernco fitting would be approved.

Yes, your question about the “non-pressure” refers to drains. Code are never as clear as I’d want them to be. So folks may feel like they could argue against what I’m about to say. But I’m involved with plumbing inspectors who have no problem educating me to their codes. It’s my understanding that the ABS-to-PVC cement you used is meant for a single connection like between your building drain of one variety (PVC or ABS) to a sewer system of the opposite variety. It’s not meant to allow PVC and ABS to be mixed together.

If this is getting inspected in my neck of the woods, you’d fail the inspection. Will it last? Probably.



Yeah...and I fixed your title.
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Unread 03-25-2020, 10:33 PM   #18
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https://www.constructionprotips.com/...in-abs-to-pvc/
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Unread 03-28-2020, 10:45 PM   #19
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I love the new title. Thanks.
Now on to reading about abs to PVC. I picked up a half dozen PVC p traps so that I could continue to use the flex PVC and then use a fernco on a straight length of pipe.
While I was at the plumbing supply I picked up a hose bibb for this job. Look at these 2 bibbs. 1 from homer's and the other from a plumbing supply. Can you guess which one cost $2 more?

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Unread 03-29-2020, 08:44 AM   #20
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Bid on the right, is the one I’d want. One on the left looks like an HD pos. Most of the plumbing parts in HD and Lowe’s are watered down versions of the neat/straight versions you’ll find at a supply house.
When I lived in Sac, I’d go to Brother’s Plumbing Store off Kiefer Blvd. I stumbled on it when passing through on my way to the dump off Florin Perkins Rd. They carry anything you’d want or could need, and it’s all built better. Plus a fun place to go if you respect quality old timers.
I wouldn’t worry about a single connection. I’ve found glueless connections for clamping drains and p traps during my demos, so your pvc to abs glue is better already. Shit I didn’t know flex pvc was a thing, that’ll make tubs a breeze.
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Unread 03-29-2020, 11:58 AM   #21
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I wouldn't discount HD so quickly. Their selection of plumbing items is quite impressive. Yes, there will be items where the local plumbing supply carries the higher-quality counterpart, no doubt. However, I have also encountered numerous items where that is simply not the case at all anymore. You go to the plumbing supply store just to find a similar iteration of yet another Chinese-made item. Has happened to me many times.
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Unread 03-29-2020, 01:12 PM   #22
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Not trying to discredit the big box stores, I’m guilty of frequenting those blue and orange warehouses often. It is ultimately the consumers decision when considering what their acceptable tolerances are in terms of quality control. When I have convenience to avoid the big box stores and support a local supply house, I opt to do so.
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Unread 03-29-2020, 01:50 PM   #23
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The home depot version on the left is the more expensive item.


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Unread 04-02-2020, 07:57 PM   #24
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Things are coming along. What am I doing wrong? Burned through a whole bag of 20 min mud floating out a low spot on the left. I could probably go through another bag but it's good enough.
Speaking of which. Is it okay to embed fiberglass drywall tape with joint compound? I usually use paper tape but ran out. And wasn't about to go to home depot for 1 item.



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Unread 04-02-2020, 10:19 PM   #25
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Yes, to the fiberglass tape.

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Unread 04-03-2020, 03:28 PM   #26
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I had a good sized low spot in this wall. The walls are not square around the tub and was exaggerated when I squared up the 3 walls around the tub. I floated the wall out about 4 feet from the tub. It looks pretty good now but wondering if I should bring it out to the other corner. The walls still be lightly sanded, textured, and knocked down.
Would you guys call it good or float it out more using the 6 foot straight edge?

Pics show before, after with a 4 foot straight edge, and what's needed to bring it out to 6-7 feet.


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Unread 04-03-2020, 03:48 PM   #27
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If the walls in those pics will be covered in knock down I'd be inclined to leave them alone. The knock down will effectively hide all of it. You might know they aren't flat, no one else will be able to tell.
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Unread 04-03-2020, 04:15 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ss3964spd View Post
If the walls in those pics will be covered in knock down I'd be inclined to leave them alone. The knock down will effectively hide all of it. You might know they aren't flat, no one else will be able to tell.
That's what I am leaning towards.
I just thought this thread needed new content.
I need to post a better pic of the shower surround. That will surely spark some "That's not per schluter instructions."

Oh serious question here sealing the kerdi to the tub. I think schluter wants a strip of kerdi brand around the seam. Does anyone do it differently? (Yes this voids warranty) I am thinking about packing it full of ardex 8+9.

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Unread 04-03-2020, 09:18 PM   #29
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If you are talking about the sticky back mesh type tape, its been my experience that it is a lot more likely to become debonded and float in premixed joint compound than it is with 20 minute or quicker powder based product.

Of course I stink at drywall work so that may be the issue
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Unread 04-03-2020, 09:31 PM   #30
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I find that mesh tape works better with hot mud versus joint compound and paper tape works better joint compound. Hot mud (90,40,20,5 minute setting compound's) swell when they dry whereas taping compounds shrink.
Mesh tape does come loose when applying joint compound. I had that happen and I think that's why I asked in the first.
I ended up making a trip to the depot to get paper tape after that happened. I was planning on coming back, tearing it down and taping it again with paper tape. But it had dried enough for my liking. Plus it's the seam at the ceiling that will be covered with tile. I don't think it will be a problem if it comes loose.

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