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Unread 03-23-2020, 05:44 PM   #61
cx
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Please see post #44, Nick.

You must waterproof that bench and a direct bonded waterproofing membrane is the only way to do that when building a CBU shower.

You generally would use whatever membrane you intend to use on the rest of your walls and you must use that method on most of your walls anyway if you build either a bench or niche in a CBU shower, so best to waterproof the whole thing that way.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-23-2020, 06:20 PM   #62
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Sorry I’m having a day. Examples of direct bonded are what again
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Unread 03-23-2020, 07:07 PM   #63
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Post #50.
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Unread 03-23-2020, 07:30 PM   #64
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Could you suggest a good post or thread so I could learn how to use it? I was gunna just use red guard but If I’m grasping how this works I think it’s less likely to fail.
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Unread 03-23-2020, 07:34 PM   #65
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Disregard I found their video and this looks awesome far better than a paint on membrane.
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Unread 03-24-2020, 10:27 PM   #66
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Well after lots of good advice from all you helpful folks I think I’ve decided to use brick for my curb instead of wood since I’m on concrete. With that being said is the process for pan liners the same? Wrap over the brick, lath, then mud. And does anyone know of a brick that’s 3.5 inches wide so it will line up with a 2x4? All I can find is 3 5/8 or 2.5
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Unread 03-25-2020, 12:57 AM   #67
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Just get the smaller brick and make the rest up with mud.

I've never done one with brick and a PVC liner, so you may want to wait until one of the other guys with some experience with that comes along, just to give you some advice on the best way to handle it.
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Unread 03-25-2020, 01:22 AM   #68
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If someone has done one I would really appreciate any advice and or challenges this may present. Although I like the idea of no wood even though if done properly it should never get wet
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Unread 03-25-2020, 07:10 AM   #69
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Use whatever CMUs you can find to build the curb, Nick, install your liner and metal lath, then use fat mud to make the curb whatever width you want it should be. No rocket surgery involved. If you're needing to build up a lot with the mud, do a "scratch" coat first, then do your final shaping with a second "brown" coat.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-25-2020, 01:54 PM   #70
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Is there a need to glue the liner to the bricks pre lath? Or is the lath enough to hold the liner in place? I found some pavers the are the same height and width as a 2x4 which would make for an easy install assuming there is no issue securing a paver versus a standard brick
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Unread 03-25-2020, 02:26 PM   #71
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No, there is no need to glue anything.

You'll need to be a bit more careful in making your curb over those 3 1/2" bricks, but it can work. You'll need your lath bent accurately so it just fits tightly over the rough curb and liner and stays tight against on both sides. You'll have only a half-inch or so of mud on either side if you're to match a drywall on one side and CBU on the other. That's enough when done properly.

Go to our Liberry and find the Shower Construction thread. In there you'll find some useful information about building your shower. I thin the first article in there is John Bridge's shower curb instruction. Got expandable photos. Got some out of date links about shower construction, but I think the curb instructions are still there.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-25-2020, 03:23 PM   #72
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I didn’t even know the liberry existed but it has a ton of info in there I will be scrolling through tonight. And cx I guess I can see where using narrower bricks would be helpful to get a little thicker curb. With that being said I’m in a framed doorway so to speak if I used a narrower brick how would I get those preformed corners installed? I would like to have that little bit of extra protection running up my doorway if possible but I think using a narrower brick would make it so it wouldn’t line up
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Unread 03-25-2020, 04:11 PM   #73
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There's no reason to use brick. Drill holes in a (regular untreated) 2x4 and use Tap-cons to secure it to the slab. If you want to use a layer of felt paper between the slab and 2x4, that's fine. Then screw more 2x4's to the first one. Then you can wrap the liner over the curb and glue the corners in place. Then wrap with lath and mud it.

If you do use bricks, the lath can hold the liner or you can use PL Premium to hold it in place. You may have to place something against the curb till it dries.
I can see using bricks if you plan to use a surface applied membrane but not for a traditional pan liner installation.
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Unread 03-25-2020, 06:07 PM   #74
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Perhaps I’m over thinking this..... I was worried about water damage but I have never built a shower so I may be over analyzing this due to lack of expierence. Hence my seeking out you fine folks who have a better idea about this stuff. So many different opinions and so many different ways to do things depending on an application can get a bit overwhelming.

Maybe I should just start doing stuff and posting pictures and you guys can give me feedback before moving on.
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Unread 03-25-2020, 07:55 PM   #75
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Nick, if you have a leaking shower, it still has to be addressed no matter what the curb is made of.

When mudding/tiling a curb over a pan liner, the pan liner is not tight against the wood 2x4's. After all, the lath is only nailed on the outside of the curb. There's a little space here and there and that's usually enough space to allow the wood to move while drying out. When using a surface membrane over a wood 2x4 curb, if you bond directly to the wood, the wood might swell or shrink enough to cause problems, usually cracked grout and maybe loose tiles. Most surface membrane installers will install cement board or sheet rock before bonding the surface membrane over the 2x4's, which will help. In that situation many like installing bricks.
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