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Unread 03-22-2020, 10:01 AM   #31
PC7060
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The exterior smoothness and texture is usually consistent across the tub series and brand and varies widely. I’d have thought to Kohler units would have a smoother finish.
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Unread 03-22-2020, 12:21 PM   #32
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I can't seem to confirm whether this is normal or a defect. I think I "remember" a few that I cannot recall being bumpy, but I wasn't checking surface finishes that closely at first, until one really stood out as really bad. Then all the in-stock ones (checked about 6 or 7 all over town) seem to be similar or a hair worse after I started inspecting them closely (or it was the homedepot store lighting...).

If this is normal, I'm definitely keeping it.

If it isn't normal, I'd have to reconsider if it is worth the effort/risk to exchange it.

On another note...

While shimming this monster, how close is close enough? I can't seem to get it perfect, but I'm hovering around 1/8" at the most extreme variances. Also very difficult to gauge actual level since the top surfaces are a bit contoured, and the "lip" isn't perfectly straight/flat, so it is not always a perfect indicator of level.

And if I have to err on a particular side, I assume slope bias towards the apron front (outside the tub), and try the get the big wall side as level as possible.

I do plan on tiling the 2nd row first with a ledger, and cutting the "base" row to fit anyway.
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Unread 03-22-2020, 02:28 PM   #33
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I had the same issue with the fiberglass tub in our bath; they are not dimensionally true so I just gave it my best shot.
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Unread 03-22-2020, 03:30 PM   #34
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Actually, I think I just got lucky! It appears to be dead level on the long wall, and ~1/16" over 2 ft towards the apron.

Had to rig up quite the contraption to pull this off...

So arguably, one of the hardest parts is over. Now I need to deal with the tub being a bit under spec... supposed to be 60", is about 1/4" short. and my walls are a bit wide, so I need to make up about 5/8". Whats the best way to pull this off? plywood strips?

I have a ton of the cardboard shims to fine tune stuff. Its too bad I can't move the wall. And I'm replacing most of the studs in this wall (the one on the right) anyway... Tempted to just move the whole wall, if I can get away with the vertical studs hanging off of the top and bottom plates a bit (not load bearing wall)
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Unread 03-22-2020, 03:54 PM   #35
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What is your plan for waterproofing?
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Unread 03-22-2020, 04:35 PM   #36
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I plan to use Wedi board, which is 1/2" thick.

Using some scraps... One board is in the gap (eating up 1/2") and here's roughly how I plan to meet the ramp. Looks like I'll have to fur/shim it pretty tight. The bare stud picture is the wall I notched a hair to get the ramp as far in as possible. Looks much better/safer that way.

I wonder how much it has to overlap the "flange" which is more like a ramp. Do I need the full board to overlap, or do something like the angle cut I did with scrap. What should I shoot for in regards to this "overlap" half the wedi board?

I'm hoping not 100% of the board into the tub, since board+thinset+tile will eat up a little over 1" of the tub top surface in that case.

PS If the wall was crooked the correct way, I could shift the studs enough. Too bad it is perfectly square to the other wall. The one thing in the house that is actually square, is the thing I was hoping wasn't. So it seems like furring out is the key here.
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Unread 03-22-2020, 04:58 PM   #37
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Are you planning to set the tub in mortar?
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Unread 03-22-2020, 05:55 PM   #38
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PC, no, I did not plan on setting it in mortar. From what I have read, there is 100% not necessary for a cast iron tub. Current plan is to use construction adhesive and screws to lock the shims to the floor. Then set the feet in a blob of construction adhesive on top of the shims to lock the tub in place from lateral movement.

I am tempted to add a few blobs of leftover thinset mortar to help stabilize/lock it in place, but it is cast iron, wouldn't the water in mortar cause rust, and that would make the mortar support useless?

On the 4 feet right now there is zero rocking. Not sure how long that is supposed to last.

Also attached is the install instructions for reference. They don't suggest any above and beyond methods (but I am all about reasonable above and beyond...)
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Unread 03-22-2020, 07:10 PM   #39
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For your 5/8 inch Gap if your studs are in line, plane, plumb, square, my first thought would be a piece of 5/8 in sheetrock behind the wedi board, since you will be waterproofing over. If your studs are a mess, wavy out of plumb, out of plane. Then I would go the route of finding the straightest 2x4's and sister them on to your current studs so you could get everything I mentioned in the first line
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Unread 03-22-2020, 07:51 PM   #40
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Lenny, on the right end and maybe the left too, I'd add a couple studs at the outside corner of the tub. You'll want something to nail to along the side of the tub heading down towards the floor.
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Unread 03-22-2020, 08:43 PM   #41
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PC, no, I did not plan on setting it in mortar. From what I have read, there is 100% not necessary for a cast iron tub.
Dooh! I missed that.. Here I was thinking this was a fiberglass unit.

Your earlier pictures of the finished for the tub is pretty typical for a cast iron unit.
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Unread 03-22-2020, 08:54 PM   #42
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Davy, that's on the to do list. I paused my wall reconstruction when I realized the tub was a bit too small, less work to redo if it came down to that.

Shawn, I think I'm gonna use plywood for anything larger than 1/4". But its a nice easy idea if my screws still end up with enough bite into studs.

I did some mockups. One seemed like too much overlap. Another seemed just right. I anticipate about 1 1/8" thickness (1/2" wedi, 3/16" thinset, 3/8" tile, +1/16" for whatever). Every fraction of an inch counts if I don't want to tub deck to disappear. Which one of these looks right to y'all?
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Unread 03-22-2020, 08:58 PM   #43
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Thanks PC for the vote of "it looks normal". Now there's one less thing to worry about, on the ever-growing list...
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Unread 03-22-2020, 10:38 PM   #44
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I'd sister the studs, so that you have total control over how much the build-out is.

Ideally, you'd want the face of the waterproofing to be flush with the tub flange. I realize the tub flange is kind of a rolling one in your case, but I certainly wouldn't want it over the tub deck.
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Unread 03-22-2020, 11:36 PM   #45
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I got a bit of a wild idea to minimize the overlap into the tub. It also solves the furring problem, and only slight shimming would be necessary to keep walls in plane/etc.

Install wedi flush to the tub lip, and use the wedi fleece (much like kerdiband). I'll use the wedi goop to attach the material to the tub, and wedi board. This material can stretch so it wont rip if anything settles/moves a bit.

Good idea, bad idea?

The only problem I see is that wedi board has a cement-like surface, so despite the fact that the fleece has a waterproof core, and the wedi goop is waterproof, water in the wedi board surface coating might wick down. I would imagine not any more than a similar installation using kerdi products, ie. kerdiband sealed to tub with kerdifix, and adhered to the kerdi board using thinset.
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